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Spellbound in New Mexico Part III

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A scenic roller coaster of disparate extremes, the swirling two-lane High Road from Taos to Espanola was all that separated dense forest clouded by mountain wildfires, home to trout streams, elk, and bighorn sheep, from patches of high desert plunging down into arid valleys.
Spellbound in New Mexico
Part III: The Art of Santa Fe

By Augustus Mayhew

Beneath New Mexico's painted skies, intense heat conjures a mirage of spectacle and surprise, exhilarated as much by the pageant of natural wonders as lulled by the humdrum procession of casinos and pottery shops. Whether breathing the Land of Enchantment's high-altitude air, assimilating its social conflicts and contradictions, or comprehending the juxtaposition of cultures, customs and settings that makes for an altered state more surreal than anyone could imagine, New Mexico's magic is as tangible as one of Ansel Adams' monumental illusions of reality. Leaving a wake of nightly vivid dreams behind me, I drove from Taos south to Espanola by way of the High Road that climbs the Carson National Forest before spiraling down to Trampas, Truchas, and Chimayo, the path first taken by Spanish missionaries more than 250 years ago.

Beyond the Carson National Forest, the Pecos Wilderness wildfire created a hazy skyline.
Just as the last century's painters and photographers were attracted by the Southwest's phenomenal light and landscape, a considerable number of today's filmmakers have abandoned Hollywood back lots for Albuquerque streets and Santa Fe adobes, making New Mexico one of the top five locations in the world. "Housing casts and crews are an important part of our business," said Marisa Thompson, marketing and creative director for Heritage Hotels and Resorts, whose Albuquerque hotel hosted the Breaking Bad wrap party, a historic social event I regret missing.

As I was leaving my hotel in Santa Fe, several hundred journalists were rolling in on a press junket for Johnny Depp's film The Lone Ranger while Depp was reported just down the road filming his latest, titled Transcendence, at the nearby I-25 Studio.

One night at Café Pasqual's, two of my fellow diners seated at the family table described their visit to the site of Gus Fring's fast-food chicken restaurant Los Pollos Hermanos and Walter and Skyler White's car wash, settings from Breaking Bad, as if they had just visited Versailles. And, if anything, being in New Mexico left me with this pervasive feeling of being in a movie, whether because of the ultra-bright radiant light, the mix of illusionary 21st century adobes made to look like their 19th century prototypes, or finding myself surrounded by so many big-hat Texans behind the wheel of their hefty chrome King Ranch F-450 Super Duty Crew Cab trucks.

I arrived in beautifully staged old Santa Fe, checked-in to the Hotel St. Francis, then dashed over to LewAllen Galleries where Palm Beach sculptor Jane Manus was opening her show. Despite art fairs making much of the classic art market seem quaint, I spent some time on historic Canyon Road, a touch of the Left Bank with more than 100 art galleries still worth a climb. Then, on to Museum Hill, a truly breathtaking showcase for the Art of Santa Fe.

Lights! Cameras! Action!

The High Road from Taos to Espanola
Las Trampas. Considered one of New Mexico's best preserved 18th century Spanish Colonial Mission churches, San Jose de Gracia de Las Trampas was restored in 1970.
Las Trampas was established in 1751.
Las Trampas. San Jose de Gracia Church.
Las Trampas. San Jose de Gracia Church. A remarkable architectural treasure.
Firefighters from many of the western states converged to help New Mexico contain the fires.
Truchas may be best known as the setting for Robert Redford's film The Milagro Beanfield War. Since I just saw the movie, it appears not much has changed in Truchas. Beyond, the Pecos Wilderness fire continued to burn.
Truchas.
From Truchas, the road heads down the valley into the high desert around Chimayo.
Chimayo

Known as the "American Lourdes," Chimayo's mission church attracts hundreds of thousands of spiritual pilgrims who come and pray for a healing. Reportedly, Robert Redford had wanted to film The Milagro Beanfield War in Chimayo but residents were concerned it would change their way of life. Thus, Redford filmed in nearby Truchas.
The Santuario de Chimayo was built in 1816.
The church commands a resilient sense of presence.
The soil around the church is said to have healing powers.
Souvenirs are available.
A "Holy Chimayo" map provides the big picture.
Santuario de Chimayo, façade.
After taking this photograph of the church's colorful and elaborate altar screen, I was asked not to take photographs.
Near the sanctuary, a Native American cenacle was sited on the Santa Cruz River that runs by the church.
Gift shops line the surrounding streets.
Santo Nino Chapel, façade. Chimayo. This small chapel is located near the primary sanctuary.
Potrero Trading Post. Chimayo.
Espanola
Arrow Motel, Espanola. During breakfast one morning at Casa Benavides, I asked a fellow guest, a native New Mexican, about Espanola's traumatized streetscapes of isolated, abandoned and abused buildings, that I observed on my drive up to Taos. He detailed the town's unfortunate role as a target of the Juarez and Sinaloa cartel. While I didn't disbelieve his tabloid tales, I happened on a recent Department of Justice report that indeed confirmed Espanola had the highest per capita drug fatality rate in the United States. Painful to see that a town with as much heritage as Espanola cannot turn itself around and capitalize on its resources.
The Art of Santa Fe
Hotel St. Francis, façade. By mid-afternoon, the hotel's shaded porch would be filled with guests perched on sofas enjoying a few rounds while waiting for the sun to set and the temperature to drop 30 degrees.
Hotel St. Francis, lobby. The front desk and concierge were always quick to respond.
Hotel St. Francis, lobby sitting area. Although a friend regaled me with stories about her visit to the St. Francis before the makeover when it was known as the DeVargas Hotel, I liked the landmarked hotel's ascetic public areas and appreciated the comfortable accommodations.
Jane Manus, sculptor
Linear Language at LewAllen Galleries, The Railyard, Santa Fe.


Because of my mother's precarious health, I am unable to plan where and when I will be too far ahead with any certainty. But, as I checked to see what might be happening in Santa Fe while I was there, I noticed Palm Beach sculptor Jane Manus would be opening a show at one of the galleries. I first met Jane several years ago when the Town of Palm Beach permitted the demolition of a house designed for and by her parents on Wells Road, one of Modernist architect Alfred Browning Parker's great houses and the renowned designer's only remaining house on the island.

At the time, I had read interviews Jane gave on how growing up in the house had influenced her as an artist, I had never seen any of Jane's work until Santa Fe. And although, the Town Council failed to realize the Manus House should be designated a landmark, thus giving the owner a bonanza of two buildable vacant lots, I am glad I had the opportunity to getting to know Jane, and now, several years later, to see her work.
Jane Manus'Linear Language is at LewAllen Galleries at The Railyard from June 14 to July 14.
Jane Manus standing with two of her more monumental works in front of LewAllen Galleries in Santa Fe.
Manus House, pool and terrace. Wells Road, Palm Beach. Alfred Browning Parker, architect. The Manus House was demolished in 2008. Photo courtesy Manus family.
Manus House, living area. Wells Road, Palm Beach. Alfred Browning Parker, architect. Photo courtesy Manus family.
Jane Manus standing in front of her work titled Higher Form. Aluminum, 72"h x 37"w x 18"d. $30,000.
Linear Language, sculptures by Jane Manus.
Steven. Painted welded aluminum. Jane Manus.Vase, 2013. Aluminum, 53" x 12" x12." Jane Manus.
Ken Marvel, CEO and owner of LewAllen Galleries.
A show of the late Dan Christenson's Orb Paintings was also being exhibited at LewAllen Contemporary.
Across from The Railyard, Zane Bennett Contemporary Art on South Guadalupe was showing some pieces of interest.
Canyon Road

A century ago, the first artists who settled in Santa Fe came for the dry air, finding it up on Santa Fe's higher ground, Canyon Road where painter Gerald Cassidy had bought a house at 1000 Canyon Road in 1915. With a sanatorium located on a hill just beyond Canyon Road, other artists began to flock to the area where the light was sharp and the air was clear. After WW I, New York artists discovered the allure of Santa Fe. But it wasn't until the late 1940s that Canyon Road was transformed from a residential-studio area to a commercial gallery district. In 1962, it was designated "a residential arts and crafts zone. Today, the unique lofty six-block lane has more than 125 fine art galleries within its courtyards, alleys, and paths, along with two highly-regarded restaurants, The Compound and Geronimo. My authority claimed Geronimo is the best of the best in Santa Fe but unfortunately I didn't make it on this trip.
Canyon Road offers a wide array of art.
I was fascinated by this work.
Pippin is at the entrance to Canyon Road at Paseo de Peralta.
A touch of Tibet on Canyon Road
Venus Ascending. Don Smalley, sculptor.
Unfamiliar with Don Smalley's work, I was captivated by some of his sculptures.
A larger work by Don Smalley in the courtyard.
Gebert Contemporary.
Numbers Man. Grisha Bruskin, sculptor. Gebert Contemporary.An inviting motif for a front entrance.
Sculpture gallery at 619 Canyon Road.
David Rothermel Gallery.
A touch of the traditional.Stellar.
Winterowd Fine Art, 701 Canyon Road.
Geronimo restaurant. Built in 1756, The Geronimo Lopez house now houses chef Eric Distefano's "Global Eclectic" menu.
Something for everyone on Canyon Road.
Santa Kilim features a few things from Katmandu to Kabul.
Chalk Farm Gallery. The gallery advertises itself as "the world's leading gallery for visionary art."
Museum Hill

A spectacular setting, beautiful world-class museums, and a dessert tray at the Museum Hill Cafe worth another jaunt. Bravo Santa Fe!
Museum Hill, plaza entrance.
Museum of International Folk Art
Museum of International Folk Art. A pleasant diversion.
Bartlett Wing
Tako-Kichi.
Kites are featured from various regions of Japan.
Every region has a different kite making tradition.
Kites are made from handmade washi paper on split bamboo frames.
An array of styles.
Images are closely related to Japanese folklore.
Hispanic Heritage Wing

This exhibit shows how various foods were introduced from Europe via Spain and Asia into the New World and how they were mixed with indigenous cultures. The kind of thing I'd hope to learn on the Food Network instead of those game-show type mindless competitions manufacturing celebrity chefs.
Again, superbly mounted.
Mexican Colonial Kitchen.
Mexican Colonial Kitchen.
Multiple Visions: A Common Bond
Girard Wing

I was endlessly entertained by this immense collection of folk art tableaus. The museum's most popular exhibit is only a small fraction of the more than 100,000 objects from 100 countries, collected, donated and designed by architect and textile designer Alexander Girard who began collecting folk art in 1939 during a trip to Mexico. Sensational!

Toys represent a microcosm of man's world and dreams. They exhibit fantasy, imagination, humor and love.
They are an invaluable record and expression of man's ingenious unsophisticated imagination.
Alexander Girard

Here are a few scenes from the Girard Collection.
Museum of Indian Art & Culture
Museum of Indian Arts & Culture. Museum Hill.
Apache Mountain Spirit Dancer, 1995. Bronze. Artist, Craig Dan Goseyun, a San Carlos Apache.
Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian
Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. Museum Hill. First known during the 1930s as the Navajo House of Prayer and the Navajo Museum of Ceremonial Art, it became known as the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian in 1977 after it repatriated significant religious holdings, artworks and artifacts back to the Navajo Nation.
Old Santa Fe
Museum of Contemporary Native Arts.
Street Mural, East San Francisco Street.
Located next to the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, the Andrew Smith Gallery features an extraordinary collection of photographic works, including Eadweard Muybridge, Arnold Genthe, Lee Friedlander, Berenice Abbott, Henry Cartier-Bresson, Alfred Stieglitz, Walker Evans, Dorothea Lange, and Texas oilman's David Arrington's collection of Ansel Adams photographs. An Ansel Adams c. 1928 portrait of Taos potter Julian Martinez is priced at $18,000.
The weekend Artists Market is a makeshift weekend venue around The Railyard along with the Farmer's Market.
Courtyard mural. Museum of Contemporary Native Arts.
A Taste for Santa Fe

Santa Fe's instinctive passion for cooking can be found in almost every city block where there is a bistro or bakery known to produce someone's best of the best plates, at the moment. And while it didn't always bring back memories of my indulgences in San Francisco, I plan to return and savor at least ten more talked about places. Here is a look around at some of the swell spots during my too brief stay in olde Santa Fe.

Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi

On Father's Day at Rosewood's Inn of the Anasazi, Fernando Munoz was on the outside patio cooking up a paella extraordinario.
Inn of the Anasazi, 113 Washington Avenue, a block from the plaza.
Lemonade and chocolate cookies at the Inn of the Anasazi's library.
Sous chef Julio Cabrera and executive chef Juan Bochenski. On June 25, with the opening of the Santa Fe Opera season, Argentine native Bochenski inaugurated his Aria Dessert Menu, featuring mango crème brulee, coconut sorbet, fudge brownies with cajeta ice cream, or maybe a slice of olive oil cake, at the Inn's restaurant. For some, the restaurant is one of Santa Fe's ultimates.
Museum Hill Café
Located amidst the town's showcase museums, the café's spectacular views are billed as "the best seat in town." And although the café doesn't seem to be on anyone's best list, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
The terrace trellis has a sunscreen shielding diners from the mid-day scorch.
Museum Hill Café, elevation 7,300 ft. Lunch at the café, breathtaking panoramas, and the sounds of a classical guitarist.
Museum Hill Café, dessert tray. Clementine orange and almond cake, coconut cream pie, chocolate chiffon pie, and more of the same.
At the Hotel St. Francis, Chris Milligan is the Secreto Bar's affable chief mixologist, apparently known to always be cooking up cocktail concoctions, like his popular well-known drink The Manhattan Project or one of his "garden-to-glass cocktails."
A smoked sage margarita in the works at the Secreto Bar. " ... with sage smoked into the glass with a homemade hickory and apple smoked salt rim."
Café Pasqual's
Because the St. Francis Hotel was located ten steps across the street from Café Pasqual's, recipient of the James Beard Foundation's "American Classic" award a decade ago, I enjoyed several lunches and dinners at this organic standard's no-reservation-needed family table. On my first visit, I met regular Bill Fisher who admitted he eats there five days a week. In a town with more than its share of James Beard nominees and winners, and more than 200 restaurants, I soon realized why he frequents Pasqual's.
Café Pasqual's, my view from the community table. Great fun.
On my first visit, I settled on Aunt June's Green Goddess Salad with sautéed Cape Cod Scallops with Hearts of Romaine.
Then, there is the irresistible New Mexican cuisine.
Although Pasqual's does not open for breakfast until 8 am on Sunday morning, here is the line at 7:15 am while I was on my way to the Plaza Café.
Because it opened before anywhere else, the historic Plaza Café was my regular spot for breakfast. The town's oldest restaurant, the café has been owned by the same family for more than 60 years.
In between duck quesadillas and green chile cornbread, Back at the Ranch offers a selection of high-end boots.
The wildly popular Vinaigrette came highly recommended.
Unfortunately at Vinaigrette, my Caesar Salad with shrimp arrived slathered with onions, scallions, and tomatoes. I had not read the menu's small print, and although I had never had a Caesar Salad with onions, scallions, and tomatoes, (Could it still be a Caesar Salad?) I was told this was the chef's "signature" of the dish Not wanting to be difficult, after I said I cannot eat raw onions or scallions or tomatoes, they remade the salad without the chef's "signature." However accommodating, the resulting salad didn't get me swept up in the Vinaigrette fever. Note, the bench seating.
Surprisingly, the Cathedral Basilica of St Francis de Assisi's architectural style was not Adobe or Territorial.
The Lensic Performing Arts Center was also one of the few buildings I saw that broke the mold from the town's prevailing Adobe and Territorial styles.
The Lensic Center corners Burro Alley.
Homage to the Burro.
A scenic tapestry celebrates Burro Alley.
One of Ferrari of Long Island's sport models adds some cultural contrast to Burro Alley.
The Santa Fe Hat Company at 118 Galisteo offers a selection of shades.
Seret & Sons offers the best of Kabul and Tibet in Old Santa Fe.
No Instagrams from Seret & Sons?
"Happy Trails" Every few blocks, there is a thematic shop.
Cowgirl's BBQ menu interested me. I liked the Chips and Texas Caviar (black-eyed peas salsa).A historical milestone.
Cowgirl's blackboard specials.
The Santa Fe Railroad depot has been revived with the New Mexico Rail Runner Express that runs almost hourly for the 90-minute jaunt to Albuquerque.
The New Mexico Rail Runner Express.
Santa Fe's beautifully designed Railyard features restaurants, galleries, the farmer's market, and gardens.
The annual Santa Fe Rodeo parade passed down Water Street.
Santa Fe Rodeo royalty.
The parade celebrated the town's Hispanic heritage.
The Lone Rangeress and Tonto made an appearance.
Click here for Part I, and click here for Part II of Spellbound in New Mexico
Photographs by Augustus Mayhew.

Augustus Mayhew is the author ofLost in Wonderland – Reflections on Palm Beach.

Washington Social Diary

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The fact a murder happened at this Georgetown townhouse did not scare away buyers. It's under contract for $1.2 million.
GEORGETOWN REAL ESTATE: THE RICH ARE ON A SPENDING SPREE
by Carol Joynt

Maybe it’s a sign the bad economic times are over, or maybe it’s just another sign that the rich are getting richer, but for whatever reason there’s been a boom in sales of very expensive Georgetown homes. By UES standards these aren’t stunning prices, $6.5 million and up, but for the little storied village with period townhouses, bricked sidewalks and leafy trees the more than $45 million in sales — for 7 properties in a little more than six months — is impressive. The buying isn’t quite the frenzy of the pre-crash era. In fact, most are selling below their list price, but they are selling and for big dollars. Even at the relatively lower end of the scale ($1 million), a house where a notorious murder happened went on the market, a bidding war ensued, and in only two weeks it was under contract.

“Washington is certainly experiencing a new level of position and appeal in the national luxury market,” said Thomas Anderson, president of Washington Fine Properties. “Georgetown sales have traditionally represented over 75% of the total Capital Region highest sales annually.” He said Georgetown is a hot market because today’s high-end buyer wants convenience to shopping, restaurants, the arts and other activities. He says they’ll pay “more for less” to be in an “it” location.
The owners of this house sold to move to a new fashionable part of town, the once riot-torn 14th Street.
A truth of Georgetown is that no matter how times and tastes change, and new neighborhoods emerge, it remains an "it" place to live, an address with cache all over the world. It is and feels like a village. Neighbors know neighbors. It draws families, young professionals, intellectuals, diplomats, artists, elected and government officials, socialites and hipsters. There are four parks within its borders, not counting the immense shaded lawn of Georgetown University. It has three top luxury hotels — Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton and Capella — and a restaurant mix that includes Bourbon Steak, Cafe Milano, 1789, Clyde's, Martin's Tavern and the cave dweller fave, La Chaumiere. It has a pleasant multiplex. The shopping could be better but it's not bad. Anderson added this: "It's encouraging, too, that the buyers are local and thus know the market extremely well. As a result, it signals a long-term trend."

Basically, while Georgetown was never a busted real estate market it was flat. No more. What goes down, comes up.

The trend started in the last days of 2012 when a Georgetown apartment at a building overlooking a freeway and the Potomac River sold for a whopping $6.5 million. It was a record condo sale and got the buyer 7 bedrooms, a library and two balconies. That one sale created a sense of renewal. Since then, 2013 has been one notable sale after another.
In this building, overlooking the Whitehurst Freeway and the Potomac River, a 7-bedroom condo sold for a record $6.5 million.
Some of the “big seven” luxury properties are legendary and with notable buyers. For example, the billionaire founder of Under Armour, Kevin Plank, and his wife D.J., bought one of Georgetown’s gems, a grand brick manse that once was home to David and Evangeline Bruce, two major social figures of the last century. Glamorous parties were a standard of that home when the Bruces lived there. It has a classic design and comes with a ballroom. The Planks paid $7.9 million, one million below the asking price. Will they entertain on a Bruce scale? We hope so.

The woman who sold to the Planks is Deborah Winsor, a new widow, who herself bought the former home of that notorious scoundrel Dominique Strauss-Kahn. It had been on the market for a while, with a starter asking price of $5.2 million. Winsor paid $3.3. Presumably she and her daughters will wipe out the cobwebs and find brightness and cheer at their new home, which is adjacent to a popular park.
The one-time home of Evangeline and David Bruce sold to Under Armour's founder, Kevin Plank.
This was the home of Dominique Strauss-Kahn. It sold for $3.3 million.
Also on the west side of Georgetown, not far from the Bruce house, another grand home sold for $7.5 million. Interestingly its owners, long time Georgetowners, picked up and moved to the newest fashionable part of town, the once riot-torn but now revived 14th Street, paying one of the highest prices yet for condo in that booming neighborhood, reportedly upwards of $2 million.

The other big seven properties that have sold in Georgetown include the historic home where Robert Todd Lincoln once lived. It, too, has a ballroom, and a lovely garden and pool and lots of light and a French country feel in the dining and kitchen area. It sold for $7.6 million, only a little under its $7.9 million list price. The seller was the highflying private equity playboy, Rick Rickertson, who hosted some delightful parties there.
Man about town Rick Rickertson hosted delightful parties in his historic home, but then decided to downsize. He sold the five-bedroom house for $7.6 million.
A short hop up the street from Rick is the former home of Gerald and Eden Rafshoon, both well known in Washington since he was White House communications director for President Jimmy Carter. Following his White House years Rafshoon created a successful entrepreneurial career in television and film production. They sold their house for $7 million after listing it for $8 million. It has a Georgian floor plan and a large garden. Giving up that house was a tough decision, particularly for Eden, but the Rafshoons wanted to downsize.
For many years this was the home of Gerald and Eden Rafshoon. They sold to a trial lawyer and his for for $7 million. It has six bedrooms, four full baths and a garden that's almost the same lot size as the house.
One block over from the Rafshoon house, selling for $8.6 million, is the house where Jackie Kennedy’s mother, Janet Auchincloss, and her husband, Hugh, lived when the Kennedys were in the White House.

An oft told story is that after the assassination the Chanel suit that Jackie wore — marked with blood stains — was packed up and moved from the White House to an upstairs storage space at the Auchincloss home, where it remained until it was moved to the National Archives. It has an imposing size for the scale of the block, but is at a good corner — across from the Episcopal church — and comes with a large garden, a pool and, critical for Georgetown, a two-car garage.
Businessman Conrad Cafritz and his wife bought this house for $8.6 million. It once belonged to the Auchincloss family and after that to one of Conrad's ex-wives. It has nine bedrooms, seven full baths, a large garden, pool and two-car garage.
No home’s past is more notorious than when it includes a murder. In August 2011, Georgetowner Viola Drath was found beaten and strangled in the upstairs bathroom of the townhouse she shared with her much younger husband, Albrecht Muth. After only a few days, Muth was arrested and charged with the murder, is in jail and expected to go on trial later this year. At one point her grandson, popular Georgetown clothier Ethan Drath, considered moving into the house, but ultimately the family decided to put it on the market. The sale period lasted only two weeks. It listed at $995,000 and after six bids, it sold for $1.2 million. The buyers don’t care about the murder. They wanted a good house in Georgetown.
The living room of the Drath-Muth house, which was completely made over by Drath's family before putting the house on the market.
The Georgetown sales numbers, while large, are dwarfed by the listing for DC’s priciest piece of residential real estate, the historic Patterson Mansion on Dupont Circle. A cool $26 million will get the buyer the 16-bedroom Gilded Age gem that was designed by the firm of McKim, Mead & White in 1901. It was built for the Patterson family of Chicago, owners of the Chicago Tribune, and in particular Cissy Patterson, their daughter, who was quite a character. To this day people tell stories about her. The house is a relic of another era — when Dupont Circle was ringed with private mansions — but has unique appeal.

For a period in the 1920s, the Pattersons loaned it to President Calvin Coolidge and his wife to use as a temporary residence while the White House was under renovation. One of their overnight guests was Charles Lindbergh, just after his historic flight. There are photos of him on the balcony with the Coolidges. Since 1951 it has belonged to The Washington Club. Changing times and prohibitive operating costs forced the venerable club to put the building on the market.
The Patterson Mansion on Dupont Circle, a relic of the Golden Age looking for a 21st century revival. The $26 million price tag buys history. It served as a temporary residence for President Calvin Coolidge while the White House was renovated.
The front entrance of the Patterson Mansion and the balcony where Charles Lindbergh was photographed with President Coolidge in 1927.The view from the balcony today of a Dupont Circle that is much changed from a century ago. Where there were private mansions are now office buildings.
A special bedroom, kept much as it was when its namesake spent the night.
The grand staircase of the Patterson Mansion.
As ballrooms go in DC houses — and you'd be surprised how many have them — this ballroom at the Patterson Mansion is one of the largest and finest.
Who would buy such a massive residence that has elegant and solid bone structure but still needs a significant facelift? According to TTR Sotheby’s International Realty the interest has been extensive and from all over the world. A spokesman said the prospective buyers include boutique hotel owners, private social clubs, investors from the Middle East, diplomatic missions and even a few individuals who would use it as a private home.

Are we returning to the wild market of before the Great Recession, when homes routinely sold for well above their list price? No, says Michael Rankin of Sotheby’s. He calls it “close to the activity of the former market” but notes that while the sales numbers are big they are “fair prices for these houses. None sold in a day ... and all sold for less than the list price.” But he’s encouraged. “Georgetown has its legs again.”
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

San Francisco Social Diary

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Emirates Team New Zealand (named for its sponsor, Emirates Airline) sailing in San Francisco Bay for the 34th America’s Cup regatta.
THE 34TH AMERICA’S CUP OPENING RACE
by Jeanne Lawrence

On Sunday, July 7, the 34th America’s Cup regatta opened with the first race in the 30th annual Louis Vuitton Cup.The winner of the Vuitton Cup races, taking place through July and August, will challenge the current defending champions, Team Oracle USA, in the America’s Cup Finals in mid-September.

It was a historic day for the “City by the Bay”—its first time hosting the America’s Cup.
The 34th America’s Cup regatta kicked off on Sunday, July 7th with the first Louis Vuitton Cup race.
This marks the 30th anniversary for the Louis Vuitton Cup, first run in Newport, Rhode Island in l983.
The iconic symbol of San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge provides a picturesque backdrop for the races.
THE DEFENDERS IN PRACTICE

Oracle Team USA, founded by billionaire Oracle Corp. CEO Larry Ellison, won the 33rd America’s Cup in 2010. As the winner, Ellison was allowed to determine the site and the rules for the next competition. He chose San Francisco as the site and Australian yachtsman Jimmy Spithill as his skipper.
Thousands of spectators in San Francisco headed to the Bay for the regatta.
The 72-foot-long AC72 (“America’s Cup 72 Class”) catamaran has massive fixed sails, is 13 stories tall, and is capable of top speeds faster than twice the windspeed.
Each team had to design and build its own AC72 for racing in the Louis Vuitton Cup and the America’s Cup Finals.
THE CHALLENGERS

Due to global economic problems and the prohibitive cost of the new boats ($6–$8 million), there are just four competitors in the America’s Cup competition: defending champion USA and challengers Sweden, New Zealand, and Italy.
Oracle Team USA practicing with its two boats in San Francisco Bay in June.
Oracle Team USA on a trial run.
Italy’s Team Luna Rossa testing out the course.
Team Luna Rossa and Team New Zealand running a trial together.
Team USA and Team New Zealand practicing in the Bay.
THE “FLYING BOATS”

The 2013 regatta is quite different from the first America’s Cup race I saw in Perth, Australia in 1983. Then, theRoyal PerthYacht Club’s Australia II, with its controversial winged keel, won the Louis Vuitton Challenger Series by beating American defender Dennis Conner’s Liberty.

That was the first time in 132 years that the New York Yacht Club lost the America’s Cup to another country.
A diagram illustrating the innovative rigid sail design, which splits the air so it passes on both sides of the sail, creating enough lift to raise the catamarans’ hulls out of the water.
Today the competition seems to be less about sailing skills and more about who can design the fastest boat.

In addition to being the first time the races have taken place inshore instead of offshore, it’s also the first time the sailors have competed in rigid wing-sail catamarans. The so-called “flying boats” use solid carbon-fiber sails similar to airplane wings.
With the hulls being raised above the water,the vessels can reach extreme speeds, skimming the water at up to 50 miles per hour, the fastest boats ever to race.
The catamarans are supported by just three small hydrofoils that extend from the hulls into the water.
The boats in this year’s competition were the fastest in the history of the 161-year-old America’s Cup.
THE RACE

On opening Sunday, Emirates Team New Zealand sailed alone to pick up their first point. Italy’s TeamLuna Rossa hadboycotted the regatta to protest a new safety rule, but New Zealand still had to complete the course to earn their point.

Team New Zealand sailed at record-breaking speeds and completed the 16-nautical-mile course in 46 minutes, 27 seconds. In sailor lingo, the team’s top speed was 42.8 knots (49 mph), a record for the Louis Vuitton Cup.
Team New Zealand took the stage before their first “race.”
New Zealand’s sailors were given a sendoff by the Maori (New Zealand’s indigenous people) performing arts troupe Te Waka Huia.
Team New Zealand was off!
The San Francisco skyline made a beautiful backdrop against which to sail.
The 11-man crews must be in peak physical condition to control the behemoth vessels.
The course consisted of sharp turns and curves marked by orange buoys.
The race took the sailors past Alcatraz Island, site of the former prison.
The catamarans have to make numerous hairpin turns, upping the potential for a capsize.
Even though Team New Zealand wasn’t racing against anyone, crowds lined the shore to watch the exhilarating ride.
After their first run, Team New Zealand was only too happy to sign autographs for fans.
THE SPECTATORS

This was first time in its history that spectators could view the Cup races from shore for free. People could also watch from America’s Cup Village at Marina Green, Crissy Field, Angel Island, and numerous other spots around the city. I suspect there were many rooftop parties to watch the races.

For the 34th America’s Cup, a number of additions were made to the waterfront, including the construction of America’s Cup Park (Piers 27 and 29) and America’s Cup Pavilion, with a 9,000-seat amphitheater where video screens were set up to watch the races. Hopes are that the races will have an economic impact on the Bay Area of more than $900 million, including adding nearly 8,000 jobs.
The new America’s Cup Pavilion.
The Pavilion is being used for concerts throughout the summer.
America’s Cup Park is surrounded by the Bay and expansive views of San Francisco’s skyline.
The regatta’s opening weekend drew thousands of spectators to the Bay.
The Park offered a large video screen to watch the races for free, as well as activities like picnicking and lawn games.
An on-site bar offered a comfortable, shaded spot to watch the screen.
Larry Ellison’s efforts to make the sport appeal to a wider demographic seem to be working!
Some spectators showed their national pride with themed outfits.
Miniature flags promoting each competing country were handed out to guests.
The little flags became a fashion accessory for some.
OPENING DAY PARTY HOSTED BY MARIA MANETTI SHREM

On opening day, Maria Manetti Shrem, a big supporter of the America’s Cup, opened her Russian Hill home to friends and colleagues to watch the race.

She understood what a tremendous opportunity it was for San Francisco to host the sport world’s oldest trophy event.

Maria also hoped to gain supporters to raise money for the San Francisco non-profit, America’s Cup Organizing Committee (ACOC), to help cover costs associated with hosting this prestigious event.
America’s Cup Organizing Committee (ACOC) Head Mark Buell, with host Maria Manetti Shrem, and Jan Shrem.Maria Manetti Shrem, Golden Gate Yacht Club (GGYC) Vice Commodore Tom Ehman, and ACOC Director of Development Elaine Asher.
Maria introducing the guests of the hour: GGYC Vice Commodore Tom Ehman and ACOC CEO Kyri McClellan.
GGYC member Tom Webster and Kimball Livingston, author of the book America’s Cup San Francisco: The Official Guide.
Richard and Pamela Kramlich with Jean-Charles Boisset.Tony and Angelique Griepp.
George and Dolly Chammas with Daniel Diaz.
Maria and Jan with a group of guests visiting from Sicily to cheer on Team Italy.
Kyri McClellan and Mark Buell.Stanley and Helen Cheng.
Daniel Diaz with Holly and Michael Cuggino.
Goretti Lui (left) and two guests from Sicily.Mark Buell and Maria Manetti Shrem.
Dr. Janice Hansen Zakin with her daughter Tatiana Hansen Zakin.
Jean-Charles Boisset, Jam Shrem, George Chammas, Elisabeth Thieriot, and George Mickum.
Maggie Wei, Celine Wei, and Helen Cheng.
Tom Ehman and his daughter Meg Ehman.Ted Collins and Margaret Lui Collins.
Mark Buell and Tom Ehman.
Maria Manetti Shrem with three of her visiting guests from Sicily.
America’s Cup photos by Gilles Martin-Raget, Abner Kingman, and Guilain Grenier. Party photos by Drew Altizer.

*Urbanite Jeanne Lawrence reports on lifestyle and travel from her homes in San Francisco, Shanghai, and New York, and wherever else she finds a good story.

SHANGHAI SOCIAL DIARY

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On a Beijing runway, legendary American model Carmen Dell’Orefice strutted in an extraordinary gown by Guo Pei, China’s “Empress of Haute Couture,” which was so heavily embroidered that four men had to assist her.
SHANGHAI SOCIAL DIARY
by Jeanne Lawrence

GUO PEI, CHINA’S EMPRESS OF HAUTE COUTURE

BEIJING– Every day in China is an adventure for me, and one of the most fascinating was my visit to the Beijing studio of couturier Guo Pei, a singular talent yet to be introduced to many Westerners.

The gifted Beijing beauty produces some of the most sumptuous and exquisite fashions I have ever seen. Take a look at some works from her recent Beijing show: boldly colored, intricate designs and intriguing silhouettes, masterfully executed by needlework artisans.
THE EMPRESS OF FASHION

Now 45, and still looking like a college student, Guo Pei was born at the start of the Cultural Revolution, when the drab, functional “Mao” uniforms were obligatory wear. In 1982, at the age of 19, she enrolled at the Beijing Second Light Industry School to study fashion design, influenced by the extravagant costumes she saw in fashion design books.

In 1986, she became one of the first professional designers in China, first working on children’s clothing and then graduating to women’s wear. By 1997, she had done well enough to open her own Rose Studio (Mei Gui Fang).
China’s premier couturier, Guo Pei’s luxurious, lavishly embellished clothing is a hit among the country’s burgeoning wealthy set.

There was no haute couture in China when Rose Studio opened, but designing high fashion and gowns for entertainers was Guo Pei’s dream. The timing was perfect; she launched her career at the dawn of a new “Gilded Age of China.”

A new generation of super-rich was emerging, hungry for luxury products and not shy about flaunting their wealth and spending freely in Europe and at home.
Guo Pei’s creations are expensive—up to $40,000 for a jacket. But they’re not just clothes, they’re exquisite works of art.Some of her garments have taken as many as 7,400 hours to make and others have incorporated more than 465,000 pearls.
MODERN DESIGNS INFLUENCED BY THE PAST

Guo Pei’s work is strongly influenced by traditional court costume: the elaborately embroidered and ornamented, silk and fur-trimmed styles worn by Chinese royalty and their court throughout the various dynasties, especially the Ming and Qing eras (1369-1911).

Many Chinese consumers, who have also been influenced by these traditions, prefer opulent and colorful styles—so unlike what I see in New York, where women often choose sleeker silhouettes, mostly in basic black!
Guo Pei’s work is highly original, but brings to mind Valentino, who also loves   embroidery, color, and luxurious fabrics, and Alexander McQueen, whose designs are similarly extravagant and sculptural.
DRESSING THE STARS

Guo Pei’s Chinese Blue Porcelain Dress helped Miss China 2012 and Miss Universe 2012 finalist Ji Dan Xu take top prize in the national costume segment of the pageant.
Often created for the stage or red carpet, Guo Pei’s designs are bright and ornate—not for a shrinking violet. Her clients include singers, actresses, beauty pageant competitors, prominent performers, and anyone who wants to dress to be the center of attention.

They’ve even caught the eye of Lady Gaga, who was lent a selection of heavily crystal-beaded frocks; but at 40 pounds, they were too heavy for Ms. Gaga to sashay around onstage.

A SERENDIPITOUS MEETING

My friend Carmen Dell’Orefice was the first to mention Guo Pei’s name to me. When I admired a blouse she was wearing at a Museum of Arts and Design gala in New York, she told me the designer was Guo Pei, and I made a note to visit her on my next trip to China.

When I next headed to Beijing, I asked my travel agent to make an appointment with Guo Pei, which was not easy. Why didn’t I think to ask Carmen to make an introduction?

While in Beijing, I attended a reception at the Belgian Ambassador’s home when aglamorous, petite woman caught my eye, as she was so elegantly dressed. A friend introduced us and, coincidentally, I discovered the woman was Guo Pei herself. “I have an appointment with you at your studio tomorrow!” I exclaimed.
I noticed Guo Pei because she was wearing the most stunning shawl I’d ever seen: a royal blue, richly embroidered silk piece edged in fur.
AT GUO PEI’S ATELIER, ROSE STUDIO

The next morning, I arrived at Rose Studio, located between central Beijing and the airport. Guo Pei’s husband, Cao Bao (“Jack”) Jie, came out to greet me and graciously paid for the taxi.

I was expecting a small boutique, but what I found overwhelmed me: a showroom and workshops beyond expectation—a kaleidoscope of colorful fabrics and hand-embroidered, museum-worthy pieces of imaginative design.
To my delight, when I arrived at her atelier in the early morning, Guo Pei had already begun sketching a couple of dresses that she excitedly showed me.
Although Guo Pei’s many assistants are fluent in English, she prefers that her husband Jack translate for her.
The showroom was light, bright, and airy with her collection on view.
A golden staircase, adorned with a dragon and vines design, added an opulent touch to the winding staircase to the second floor, where the VIP fitting rooms were located.
At the top of the stairs was a wall of photos of Carmen Dell’Orefice,who had modeled Guo Pei’s clothes for an audience of 3,000 at Beijing’s National Stadium in 2009.
Carmen compares Guo Pei’s flamboyant fashion shows to Italian film director and opera designer Franco Zeffirelli’s grandiose productions.
GUO PEI DESIGNS FOR ME
I had told Guo Pei that I had trouble finding unique fashion in China. I was looking for cocktail and evening dresses with a touch of Chinese detailing to reflect my time living in China.
I like classic styles, and I didn’t want to look as if I were wearing a costume or bought something at a tourist shop.
Guo Pei first showed me an elegant, draped black dress with a special touch of embroidered panels inspired by a Chinese painting. Just what I wanted!For the Asian touch, she suggested embroidering this Chinese design of birds and flowers onto the sleeves of my dress to add an elegant touch.
Her inspiration for the design came from this traditional Chinese painting of birds and flowers.
THE BLOUSE
Since I had asked for a top like Carmen’s, Guo Pei pulled an archival sketch of the original embroidered organza blouse.
Guo Pei knew just how to scale down the design, originally meant for model-tall Carmen, so it would suit my proportions.
She also sketched pants with a high waistband (to elongate the legs) that was adjustable (very practical, especially with all the banqueting I do in China!).The fitter (who my interpreter said was the best in the shop) came in to measure every part of my body.
Knowing I travel constantly, for my slacks she choose a top-quality, wrinkle-free synthetic fabric from a factory in Spain where the “Royal Family” shops.
For the frothy piece, Guo Pei ran her fingers along swatches of fabrics and selected a special blue to match the color of my eyes.
CHOOSING FABRICS
Since her husband Jack’s family is in the textile business in Taiwan, he is knowledgeable in this area. The couple source and buy fabrics directly from Europe’s best factories, mostly in France and Italy.
They even buy her silk abroad; though the Chinese invented silk, Guo Pei explained that local silk is manufactured for export, and to keep prices low it’s not always top quality.
I asked to browse Guo Pei’s look books, one of which contained Western-style evening gowns, many in red (a “lucky” color in Chinese culture), to see what else I might like to buy.
Another book showed more traditional Chinese designs, richly colored and featuring Guo Pei’s special embroidery.
MY GOLDEN JACKET

When you find fashion this perfect, you buy it—who knows when you’ll be back? So I added one last item: an exquisitely detailed evening jacket. The hand beading took two women two months to complete.
I ordered this in a light bronze shade I thought was perfect for a blonde.
I wore my specially fitted couture piece to a New York Philharmonic Chinese New Year concert and dinner at Avery Fisher Hall.
THE STUDIO SHOWROOM

In her Beijing showroom, Guo Pei’s stunning works transport you to another time and place.
This richly patterned, jewel-encrusted gold “tour de force,” is fit for an empress. It took thousands of man-hours to embroider.
Guo Pei is known for her exquisite embroidery and sumptuous materials.
This evening gown is made entirely of golden panels, upon which craftsmen meticulously embroidered dragon motifs, using real gold thread.Though the embroidery patterns are inspired by traditional imagery, such as this dragon design, the garments are meant for modern times.
This regal robe was inspired by British royal costumes of the past.
The painstakingly executed, detailed embellishment is proof of the needle workers’ skill.These haute couture works of art are influenced by both Western and Asian fashion sensibilities.
Some garments include such precious additions as pearls, jade, gold, and gems.
Many ofGuo Pei’s creations incorporate age-old Chinese motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, and clouds.
THE WORKROOMS

When Guo Pei offered to take me on a tour of her workshops, I was astonished at what I saw. She has a fashion empire all under one roof, with the workrooms organized by divisions, such as pattern-makers, embroiderers, and jewelers, allowing her to ensure quality by controlling the entire production process.
I was flabbergasted to learn she employs 450 craftsmen, some at her atelier and others elsewhere. That includes 150 designers, pattern makers, and sewing technicians, plus 300 embroiderers.
On several floors of her atelier, her tailors cut, sew, and add the finishing touches to clothing. Others work on shoes and jewelry.
In the light, spacious workrooms, the workers concentrate on completing the extremely detailed work.
EMBROIDERY

Guo Pei had to train craftspeople to produce her designs, keeping alive the ancient art and craft of embroidering that had become a lost art during the Cultural Revolution. She hopes to make Chinese people proud of their heritage and inspire a greater appreciation for traditional crafts so they will be preserved.

Carmen told me that because it’s costly, craftsmanship of this quality has all but disappeared even in French haute couture.
Hundreds of accomplished craftspeople create detailed and elaborate embroidery.
It’s the impeccable embroidery that distinguishes Guo Pei’s work.
OTHER FASHION ACCESSORIES

Guo Pei couldn’t find bold jewelry designs to complement her clothing, so she began to make her own. I noticed that her artisans take great pride in their work.
In her workshops, Guo Pei even produces “frogs,” the braided, decorative button-and-loop fasteners that predate buttons and zippers.
She draws inspiration from objects, such as these antique hair ornaments. Some use iridescent blue feathers of the rare kingfisher bird as inlay material.
I also saw many forms for platform shoes. In China, as in Japan and Holland, they were meant to keep the wearers out of the mud.Throughout history, Chinese aristocrats also wore ornately decorated silk embroidered slippers.
Guo Pei’s studio also designs for the Chinese opera and other stage productions, such as ballet and the classical Chinese “Monkey King” epic.
MY BILL

I’ll never tell you the price (I’m too embarrassed), but I will say that I’m happy they took an American Express card, which has no limit. And there was an 8 in the final figure, which (I was reminded) is a lucky number.

On this day, I expected to visit only an hour, but the experience was so exciting and eye-opening that I stayed half the day. It was so gracious of Guo Pei to spend so much time with me.

THE FITTING

As I was returning to Shanghai in two days, Guo Pei’s workshop rushed to produce the fitting patterns. I stopped at the atelier on the way to the airport and they took me directly to the VIP fitting rooms.
Guo Pei wasn’t there when I slipped into the muslin mock-up for fitting the pattern (pink here, though elsewhere muslin is beige). I started to panic: It was too overpowering, the sleeves too big.
Then Guo Pei arrived and began editing the blouse right on my body, using her scissors to snip here and there while looking at her sketch.
She and her assistants quickly made adjustments to the design and fit of the garment.Men and women worked as a team seamlessly and with great skill, quietly, with barely a word spoken, as they knew their skills so well.
My jacket would feature inset panels of Chinese knots adorned with Swarovski crystals, nipped in to whittle my waist and made of a lightweight, festive yet subtle metallic fabric.
The finished jacket, which I wore to host a Chinese New Year dinner in honor of my friend Yue-Sai Kan (from Shanghai and New York) at the private Doubles Club in New York.
END OF THE ADVENTURE

Despite everyone’s attempts to get me to the plane on time, I missed my flight by five minutes. Still, I was able to book another in time to get to a very elaborate dinner party that night at the home of gallerist Pearl Lam. My only regret was not having one of my new acquisitions in my suitcase to wear that very evening!
I waved good-bye to Guo Pei as I headed to a flight back to Shanghai.
GUO PEI DEBUTS IN NEW YORK CITY ON SEPTEMBER 6, 2013

If you’re in New York City on September 6, you too can experience Guo Pei’s fashion firsthand at “China Fashion Night,” the inaugural benefit for the China Beauty Charity Fund (CBCF), founded by my friend Yue-Sai Kan.

Fashion designer Vivienne Tam is the honoree, and the event at the Pierre Hotel willbenefit the scholarship program at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Guo Pei’s client base is mostly in China. On the benefit night, she will present her dramatic fashion show for the first time in the U.S. Although she’s still relatively unknown here, I predict that soon you’ll see Guo Pei’s name everywhere in the fashion community, and someday you’ll see her frocks in a museum.
The invitation to the September 6, 2013 “China Fashion Night” at the Pierre Hotel in New York City.
For more information or to buy your ticket, go to www.friendsofchinabeauty.org or email cbcfnyoffice@gmail.com.
Photos by Jeanne Lawrence andRose Studio, Beijing.

*Urbanite Jeanne Lawrence reports on lifestyle and travel from her homes in San Francisco, Shanghai, and New York, and wherever else she finds a good story.

Washington Social Diary

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David Frost hosted the hit news satire show That Was The Week That Was, which launched in the UK and became a hit, too, in the US.
A NIGHT IN THE '70S WITH DAVID FROST, HENRY GRUNWALD AND WARREN BEATTY
By Carol Joynt

It was an amazing 24 hours. The year was 1972. I was barely legal, close to 20, a very young reporter working for Time Magazine in New York. A kid in a candy store, really. Most of the assignments were for the so-called “back of the book,” but some were in politics and news — the McGovern campaign bus, a 2-day upstate New York campus trip with Jane Fonda and Tom Hayden, an Apollo launch at the Cape.

The pay is forgotten at this point, but it covered rent for a 6th floor studio apartment (with elevator) at 55 Perry Street in the Village. It was an interesting block; present and former residents ranged from Frank Serpico to Norman Mailer. Jim Woods was a neighbor, and a friend.

Eleanor McGovern and George McGovern during "Stars for McGovern" Benefit Fundraiser at Madison Square Garden in New York City.
(Ron Galella, WireImage / June 14, 1972)
A 1972 photograph of Warren Beatty outside McGovern headquarters in Los Angeles.
Paul Newman and Warren Beatty at The "Stars for McGovern" (Ron Galella, WireImage / June 14, 1972)
It was late summer and the Presidential campaign between incumbent Richard Nixon and challenger George McGovern was at full tilt. Warren Beatty was a McGovern campaign insider and fundraiser. He organized a sensational “Stars for McGovern” rally at Madison Square Garden. Christopher Porterfield gave the assignment to me. The hook was that some famous former pairings would reuniting for the occasion, including Simon & Garfunkel, Elaine May and Mike Nichols.

My editor was the esteemed and renowned Henry Grunwald. Henry was a smart, charming man, who had old-world dash, consummate wit and a mastery of his domain. He was a good magazine editor, too. He circulated with ease in the corridors of power but also gave positive reinforcement even to those of us at the bottom of the ladder. He and his wife, Beverly, were a matched pair kind of couple. They hosted fun parties in their apartment, where everyone danced. After a raucous Rolling Stones concert, a note arrived, slipped under my office door. It was from Henry. He liked my story. “But why didn’t you take me with you?”

For the Warren Beatty fundraiser he suggested we go together. “David Frost has a car. He’ll pick us up,” he said. I swallowed my excitement. Invitations such as this were de rigueur at Time. Only recently one of the editors invited me to dinner with this “new fad,” David Bowie.

Did David Frost ever have a car! Before stretch limousines were the norm, Frost had a very long, black Lincoln Continental. As clearly as the car, I recall the clothing. Navy blue pin stripe suits for the men. Frost’s was cut a little tighter and longer at the waist, Grunwald’s a little looser.

I wore a floor length white pleated skirt and a sailor top. It seems so odd now but, for whatever reason, it was not then. The three of us sat in the back seat, side by side by side — Frost on the right, in the limo culture power seat, Henry on the left, me in the middle.

David Frost was a figure of my childhood — That Was The Week That Was was a TV favorite when I was oh-so-young — and hearing his distinctive voice was arresting at first, as it always is when meeting individuals who are familiar through their fame. The men talked over me but I didn’t feel ignored. I was fascinated to listen to them dish with each other, sharing what I consider Class-A gossip.

At the Garden we sat together, too. And when it ended we also traveled together in Frost’s car to the after party Beatty hosted at the Four Seasons Restaurant. Because we were with David Frost, much today like showing up with Anderson Cooper or Charlie Rose, we were hustled in quickly, taken by a back route into the party, without having to endure the crush. Once inside, we went our separate ways. Henry and David had plenty of famous people who wanted face time with them. I wanted to find Beatty, to learn what he thought of the concert, how much money was raised. That would prove elusive, but it was my goal.
David Frost and Millicent Martin, stars of That Was The Week That Was in 1963 Fox Photos/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
A measure of my youthful naiveté occurred when Jack Nicholson ambled over. This was the lean, cocky Nicholson of “Five Easy Pieces.” He wasn’t my type, but he was a beguiling and strong personality.

He stood close, face in my face, smiling. “Are you looking for me?” he asked.

I answered, “Actually, no.” Of course, what I should have said was, “Yes, and now I’ve found you. Let’s get out of here.”

He said, “are you sure?” I said, “I’m sure. I’m actually looking for Warren Beatty.” Out of the mouths of babes.
Groucho Marx chatting with Jack Nicholson at a party for George McGovern circa 1972.
An hour in to the party, I noticed Henry and David on the stairs that lead from the Pool Room up to a private dining room. David waved me over. They were leaving, he said, “if you want a ride.” Sure. I was done. Henry demurred. He planned to walk or take a taxi. I don’t recall. David and I got into the back of his Lincoln. “Would you like to come by my place for a drink?” he asked. “I have a place at the Plaza.” I said yes because it was only midnight or soon after, early, and it seemed like a nice idea.

David Frost and Diahann Carroll.
His “place” at the Plaza was a gorgeous corner suite, where the living room had a grand bay window that perched at the corner of 59th and Fifth and looked out over Central Park, the Sherry-Netherland, Grand Army Plaza and Bergdorf’s. There were other rooms, too. He gave me a tour.

In the bedroom I noticed that on the chest of drawers, under the glass that sat over the wood, he had photographs of Diahann Carroll, the beautiful singer and actress who was famously his girlfriend. They may have been engaged at the time. They were personal photographs of her alone and them together and they were sweet. It was a tender touch.

When I turned to walk out of the bedroom he grabbed my hand, pulled me back toward him, and up against him and then tossed me back on the bed and landed on top of me. “I must have you,” he said, planting kisses on my face.

I pushed him off. “This can’t happen. You’re David Frost,” I sputtered, stunned. This was not a turn of events I anticipated or expected. I don’t recall felling threatened. His move didn’t come across as lecherous as much as comedic. It was David-fucking-Frost. What was he doing?

Maybe what I said — “You’re David Frost” — struck a chord. As soon as he landed on me, and I protested, he was back up on his feet, adjusting his shirt and trousers, and apologizing many times over. Did my words do it? We’ll never know. "Maybe I should get home," I said. He offered a lift. “The car is still downstairs.”

We were back in the Lincoln, zooming through the city in the wee hours, talking in the back seat like good, old friends. He wanted to mentor me, help to guide my career. Most likely it was alcohol and the hour doing the talking.

Carol Joynt at her Perry Street apartment.
We pulled up at 55 Perry Street. I moved to get out but he put his hand on my arm and asked if he could come up to see my place. Oh dear, another mack attack? But maybe not. “Sure, come on up. It’s not much. It’s not the Plaza, but it’s home.”

I turned the lock, opened the door slightly to reach the light switch, hoping that would alert all the cockroaches to scamper back to their private quarters. The room was long and narrow with a pocket kitchen and two big windows that looked out over Perry Street and the rooftops as well as a fire escape that served as my balcony.

There was a queen sized mattress on the floor, a writing desk with an old Royal upright typewriter, a chest of drawers and a round table with four chairs. Two small closets. A bathroom. No TV. That was it.

Frost looked around, moving slowly, taking it in, as if it was a space maybe three or four times its size. Being polite. As if it was impressive, which it wasn’t. Or maybe something so small and ordinary was a curiosity to him. It was a contrast with the Plaza.

He wasn’t eager to leave. He stayed until almost dawn. He sat on the floor by my round table, with me in a chair, his head in my lap, talking about his life, his work, giving advice, talking about people. I listened but also considered that morning would come soon, I had to get some sleep.

The work day — the real work day for people like me — started in about 4 hours. But I listened. It’s likely I stroked his hair. He was so deep in thought, in reciting his own words. Eventually, he took a gentle hint, got up, thanked me for the evening, my time, apologized again (“not necessary”) hoped we would meet again and was out the door. Phew.

Warren Beatty and Julie Christy in person ...
... And on camera.
I got to sleep. Got to work, but carrying with me a night’s worth of fatigue. First thing was to call Warren Beatty at the Carlyle to find out how much money was raised. He answered. “Why don’t you just come over? We can talk here at the hotel.” He gave me the room number.

When I got to the his door I was greeted by Beatty’s publicist, John Springer, who invited me into the living room of the suite, where Beatty was sitting on a sofa, bathed in sunlight, talking with a woman who was seated in an adjacent silk upholstered chair, taking notes. “She’s just about to leave,” Springer said. “I’ll be going with her, leave you here to talk with Warren.”

When John and the woman were gone, I sat on the overstuffed sofa in the sunlight and Beatty sat on the floor, near my feet, with his arm up on the coffee table. Very casual, comfortable. But animated and alive. He was on a high. He relived the night before. Everything that happened. The performances. The excitement of who was there. The impact that his fundraising was having on the campaign, and his involvement with the campaign, and his overall love of politics, dismay over Watergate, and enthusiasm for the seemingly hapless George McGovern.

Beatty and I time traveled back to his youth, realized we grew up not far apart in suburban Virginia and even hung out at the same soda shop, the Hot Shoppes in Alexandria, though at different times because he was older. As he talked he got up, sat down, got up, moved around, and even offered me whatever I wanted from room service, but I demurred, taking only a cold bottle of Perrier (which, by the way, was hugely exotic in the U.S. at that time).

There was some rustle and stir from the back bedroom. The door opened and out breezed a mere slip of a woman with the most intriguing tousled blond hair. It was Julie Christie, wrapped in a voile Porthault bathrobe and nothing else. She was friendly, said good morning, took her own bottle of Perrier, sat beside me on the sofa for a few moments — “I’ve heard of Time magazine”— and headed back toward the bedroom. “I’m going to shower.” Of course I I was wide-eyed and drop-jawed. Moments like this did not happen in Washington.

Jack and Goldie.
Then there was a knock at the door. Warren opened it. In came Art Garfunkel, Jack Nicholson and Goldie Hawn. They were apart and together and full of energy and tall talking at once. “Hey, we’re going to get something to eat. Come with us.” Warren said, “well, I am here with Carol from Time magazine. We have to finish talking about last night. But Julie ...”

They took seats around the room and waited, dishing with each other about the night before; who they’d seen, what they heard, and praised their friend Warren for what he’d accomplished. Julie reappeared, in jeans and a flouncy shirt. The hair still irresistible. I wanted her hair. Warren, amazingly, seemed eager for them to leave so he could resume talking to me about Washington and politics. He agreed he would be along as soon as we were done. Damn. I hoped they’d invite me along — what a story I’d have then — but that didn’t happen.

The phone rang. It was for me. It was Watergate figure Jeb Stuart Magruder. How he found me is a mystery. “I’m in New York. I have to see you. [G. Gordon] Liddy’s after me. Can you have dinner?” No. I couldn’t. The magazine was closing. I had to write. “Breakfast tomorrow? 8 a.m. at the Westbury?” “Sure sure,” I said, perplexed.

Warren and I talked a while longer but I had to end it (seriously). I had a story to write. I’ll say this — given his reputation and what I’d heard from other women reporters — he was nothing but a gentleman toward me. Then again, he had Julie Christie in the bedroom. He was not needy. I was a little kid in blue jeans and a work shirt. Do the math. I returned to Time to write my story about the big Madison Square Garden rally for McGovern.

Jeb Stuart Magruder.
The next morning I showed up at the Westbury at 8 a.m. When I asked the desk to ring Jeb in his room, the receptionist said, “Oh, Mr. Magruder checked out already.” “What? We had a breakfast appointment.” The man shrugged. “He had a car pick him up at 5 a.m.”

Months later I asked Jeb what happened. “I told you, Liddy was after me.” Did he mean literally? “Yes. He was in New York. I checked out and headed to Connecticut. I thought he was going to kill me.”

I didn’t see David Frost again for five years, but the occasion was almost as memorable as the first time we met. It was 1977, a late night at Studio 54. I was on the dance floor, next to a big curtain that would drop to cut it in half, allowing for a private party on the other side. When it rose, to the beat of the music, just a few feet from me was Frost. He was in black tie, looking very trim and tailored and, of course, distinctive. Around him was a big party that appeared to be his. In his hands was a large blue tin of Petrossian caviar.

Frost saw me. He smiled. I smiled back. He scooped a shell spoon into the tin and offered it to me, spoon feeding me, and then another, while we kept dancing and his party merged with the overall scene. A waiter came by with a glass of champagne. I took it. Sipped it. Nodded to Frost. He nodded back. He danced back into his crowd and I danced into mine.
Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

San Francisco Social Diary

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Napa Valley celebrated its eighth annual Festival del Sole with a number of performances by the Russian National Orchestra, joined by a variety of high-profile soloists and conductors.
by Jeanne Lawrence

FESTIVAL DEL SOLE – NAPA VALLEY

Every July since 2006, the cognoscenti who enjoy music, food, wine, and culture have headed to Napa Valley’s Wine Country for the international Festival del Sole, an event The New York Times has very accurately dubbed “a feast for the senses.”

In the course of the ten-day festival, over 10,000 attendees enjoy a roster of international musicians, dancers, artists, and thespians in spectacular performances as well as exceptional culinary experiences with notable wines.
In 2013, the annual Festival del Sole once again drew artists and audiences to the Napa Valley with unique venues and a tradition of vintner hospitality.
For eight years, the Festival has offered not only a varied musical repertoire but also a diverse program of theater, opera, and dance.
FOUNDERS DINNER

Festival del Sole was co-founded by Director Richard (Rick) Walker and Artistic Director Barrett Wissman in 2006. The Founders Dinner is held annually the night before Festival del Sole’s official opening.
Festival Co-Founder and Director Rick Walker, with benefactor Maria Manetti Shrem and board member Steven Stull.
A FRANCO-AMERICAN EVENING

The 2013 Founders Dinner was hosted by the dynamic couple Jean-Charles Boisset and Gina Gallo Boisset, both descendants of wine dynasties, at their historic estate on Wappo Hill.

Festival Director Rick Walker enticed Jean-Charles, a native of France, and his American wife, Gina, to be the hosts by noting that the event fell midway between Independence Day and Bastille Day. When they accepted, the Boissets promised to make it a “Franco-American evening in every way.”
The Boissets’ home, Wappo Hill in the Stags Leap District, sits atop a knoll that is the highest point on the valley floor and boasts sweeping views of the vineyards and valley below.
Jean-Charles Boisset and Gina Gallo Boisset, with Festival benefactor Gordon Getty (left), are continuing the tradition of memorable wine and food parties at Wappo Hill.
Married three years ago, each from a dynastic family of vintners, the Boissets are expanding their wine empire with a combination of the California-based Gallo and Burgundy-based Boisset wines.
Charming, gregarious Jean-Charles Boisset grew up in Burgundy among the centuries-old vineyards of Chateau du Clos Vougeot, the birthplace of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Gina Gallo-Boisset is the granddaughter of the late California wine pioneer Julio Gallo. She studied viticulture and enology at the UC Davis and is the chief winemaker for Gallo Family Vineyards.
WAPPO HILL ESTATE

Once you step over the threshold of Wappo Hill, you are guaranteed to have a jolly good time. Wappo Hill is the 11,500-square-foot modernist home designed by famed architect Cliff May, father of the California ranch house.
Wappo Hill was originally built in 1984 for Margrit and the late Robert Mondavi, with a 50-foot indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof off the living room.
Wappo Hill is a Dali-esque fantasy of eclectic furniture, surrealist paintings, and other original objets d’art that the Boissets find amusing.
The home is also filled with toys and art for their twin toddlers.
FOUNDERS, BENEFACTORS, PATRONS & VINTNERS

The invitation-only event honors the visionaries who helped launch the festival in 2006 as well as the major benefactors and patrons of the yearly program.
Jean-Charles Boisset, Bouchaine Winery proprietors and Festival benefactors Tatiana and Gerret Copeland, and Christian Moueix of Dominus Estate winery.
Benefactors Athena and Timothy Blackburn.Shahpar and Festival board chair Darioush Khaledi of Darioush, another of the Festival-founding wineries.
Festival Board TreasurerMichael Polenske, Jean-Charles Boisset, Festival Director Rick Walker, board member Steven Stull, and Alexander Shustorovich, a co-chair of IMG Artists.
Alexander Shustorovich’s parents, Maria and Evgeny Shustorovich; Maria is on the board of the Festival and the New York Metropolitan Opera.
IMG Artists President and CEO Jerry Inzerillo with Mark Harmon, CEO of Auberge Resorts.
Stephen Oetgen and Festival board member Maggie Oetgen.Festival board member Antonio Castellucci and his wife Rita Castellucci.
Kimberly Miller, Gordon Getty, and Martha Bredon.
Jean-Charles Boisset and Jeanne Lawrence taming the peacock. Real or not?
Agustin and Valeria Huneeus of Quintessa Winery with Cherise and Christian Moueix of Dominus Winery.
Neil and Karen Aldoroty, Tessa Edwards, Kimberley Harmon, Karen Walker, and Mark Harmon.
MUSICAL PROGRAM

Sixty guests dined around the pool to chamber music performed by members of the Russian National Orchestra (RNO). Though surely jet-lagged, having flown in that very day, they played beautifully.
The Franco-American musical program began with George Gershwin’s American in Paris and continued to include selections from Porgy and Bess.
The party was held around the pool in the living room, illuminated by exquisite Baccarat crystal chandeliers. The color-changing lights of the pool contributed to the festive mood.
DINNER MENU

Boisset Family Estate Executive Chef Michael Cornu’s delectable Franco-American menu drew raves, and I was impressed by the table linens, as perfectly starched and pressed as in a Michelin three-star restaurant.
French porcelain company Bernardaud celebrated its 150th anniversary by asking a dozen contemporary artists, including David Lynch, Jeff Koons, and Sophie Calle, to design plates. Corinne Oats and George Kakaty show off the creations.
Video artist Marco Brambilla’s “Last Supper” design substituted celebrities for the Twelve Disciples, a commentary on how pop stars are worshipped today.
The entrée, inspired by both American and French cuisine, consisted of Mini Kobe Beef Burgers and Joue de Boeuf (beef cheeks) Bourguignon & Onglet (a steak cut) with Potato Flower Lyonnaise.
The main course was paired with Gallo Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma 2008 and Raymond Generations Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2009.
Jean-Charles is so enthusiastic about his wines that he served many varieties. By the end of the evening our table was completely covered with wine glasses, and I had lost count of how many we tasted. But I do remember all were very good!
Wappo Hill, the art-filled fantasy house, is definitely a fun party venue.  (Thankfully, no one ended up in the pool!)
FIRST NIGHT GALA WITH BROADWAY LEGEND AUDRA MCDONALD

The First Night Gala at Castello di Amorosa kicked off the Festival’s 2013 season. A sold-out performance by stunning Broadway singer Audra McDonald was followed by dinner at The Napa Valley Reserve in St. Helena, the ultra-exclusive private club. It was a night to remember.
The Tuscan-style Castello di Amorosa Winery, one of Napa Valley’s top destinations, was built in 1994 by Dario Sattui, a fourth-generation vintner and owner of V. Sattui Winery.
Castello di Amorosa, the 107-room medieval-style castle, enchants with features like a moat and drawbridge, secret passageways, a family chapel, and stately guard towers. It’s a favorite spot for romantic weddings. Los Angelenos Monica and Virginia Mancini (respectively, the daughter and widow of Henry Mancini) in front of the castle built of more than 8,000 tons of local stone and 850,000 imported European bricks.
VIP GUESTS

VIP ticket holders were invited to a pre-concert wine tasting on the castle’s turreted terrace with commanding views of the Castello di Amorosa vineyards.
Festival Director and co-founder Rick Walker with his wife Karen Walker.
Mahvash Yazdi, Festival benefactor Gordon Getty, and Farrok Yazdi.
Festival patrons Ted and Pamala Deikel.Shahpar Khaledi and Festival board chair Darioush Khaledi.
Richard Marinelli, Jeanne Lawrence, Maria Manetti Shrem, and Wes Carroll.
Castello di Amorosa President George Salzner with Christine Salzner and Pat and Ortwin Krueger.
Phillip Norfleet, Steven Stull, Carol Norfleet, and Roger Walther.
Jason LaFond and Brandie Dixon LaFond, with Kimberly Miller and Michael Polenske.
Philip Norfleet, Jeanne Lawrence, Daru Kawalkowski, and Alton Irby.
Dan and Alicia Bythewood, John Hinds, and Pamela Baxter.
THE CASTELLO’S GREAT HALL AND COURTYARD
Before the performance, Pam and Dick Kramlich and Fred and Mary Constant mingled in the castle’s Great Hall, with its 22-foot coffered ceiling and fresco-covered walls.
Wes Caroll, Carol Saatchi, and Richard Marinelli.
Oliver and Karen Caldwell in the courtyard.Festival benefactors and board members Athena and Timothy Blackburn.
VintnersGreg and Petra Martin.
THE CONCERT BEGINS

Audra McDonald’s extensive list of credits includes TV (the ABC series Private Practice), Broadway (she won a record-tying fifth Tony for her leading role in Porgy and Bess), and records (she won two Grammy Awards for opera and classical recordings).
Festival Executive Producer Charles Letourneau, a French-Canadian who studied music in Russia, welcomed the crowd in the intimate open-air pavilion in the Castello di Amorosa courtyard.
The audience enjoyed sitting in the Castello’s courtyard for the performance in perfect summery weather. Singer Audra McDonald, originally from Fresno, announced that this was her first visit to Napa Valley. I predict she will be back.
Audra McDonald sang a pastiche of Broadway tunes by such legends as Kander and Ebb, movie classics, and material from new, young writers.
The audience was moved to tears by her performance of “I’ll Be Here,” a tribute to 9/11, by composer/lyricist Adam Gwon. McDonald told us to keep an eye on this newcomer.

McDonald conveyed loving warmth to her audience and concluded by saying,  “We’re all that we have. Take care of one another!”
The VIPs had seats in the balcony overhang, a contemporary equivalent to the balcony reserved for aristocrats in medieval times.
It was a magical night in a magical setting. As we left, the sun was setting over the vineyards of Napa Valley, a most auspicious start to Festival del Sole 2013.
DINNER AT THE NAPA VALLEY RESERVE

After the First Night concert, patrons departed for an elegant dinner hosted by The Napa Valley Reserve. Located in a private enclave, the exclusive club has a worldwide membership of more than 500 wine aficionados.
A world-renowned private club, The Napa Valley Reserve is located in a private enclave hidden in the heart of Napa Valley and draws leading wine experts.
Guests arrived at The Reserve, where architect Howard Backen designed a cluster of barns meant to complement the country lifestyle.
Timothy and Athena Blackburn with hosts and Napa Valley Reserve directors Carol and Philip Norfleet.
Festival co-founder and director Rick Walker, singer Audra McDonald, and benefactor Maria Manetti Shrem.
Judith and John Renard.Nune Worraruji and Merline Nyberg.
Cellist Nina Kotova and her husband, Festival co-founder and artistic director Barrett Wissman, with Maria Shustorovich and Dario Sattui.
Shahpar Khaledi, Steve and Kay Fike, Darioush Khaledi, Mahvash Yazdi, Carol Norfleet, and Pepper Jackson.
Jan Shrem,Maria Manetti Shrem, Daniel Diaz, Tyler Florence, Craig Card, Rolando Beramendi, Tolan Florence, and Alex Chases.
Festival board member Michael Polenske and fiancée Kimberly Miller with board member Kathryn Walt Hall and CraigHall.
DINNER IN THE PAVILION
Dinner was held in the Napa Valley Reserve Pavilion, decorated with seasonal pink flowers.Dinner wines included handcrafted selections from The Napa Valley Reserve and Fritz Hatton’s Arietta wine.
I first met Jerry Inzerillo, the energetic New York-based CEO of IMG Artists, in South Africa when I attended the 2010 World Cup, where he was in charge of Sol Kerzner’s “One and Only” hotel empire.
By luck of the draw, I was seated at the head table with Audra McDonald; cellist Nina Kotova and her husband, Festival Co-Founder Barrett Wissman; and Sibylle Szaggars.
Vintner Fritz Hatton personally presented to Audra McDonald a magnum of his Arietta wine, a Napa micro-brand featuring handmade Bordeaux-style choices.
Virginia Mancini, widow of Henry Mancini, with Don Franzen.
DINNER IS SERVED
The lobster and mango salad appetizer, spiced with sweet chili, cilantro, and avocado, was served with Arietta on the White Keys 2012.
The main course of grilled beef tenderloin with potato gratin and garden vegetables was served with Napa Valley Reserve 2006.
The dessert was irresistible: liquid-center cake with vanilla ice cream and malted meringue crisps—one of my favorites.
RUSSIAN NATIONAL ORCHESTRA & PIANIST JEAN-YVES THIBAUDET

On Saturday evening, I dashed off to hear a concert by the Russian National Orchestra with pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet. “The Mighty RNO,” as the Festival dubbed it, opened with a piece by SergeiRachmaninoff, in honor of the 140th anniversary of his birth. In a nice bit of synchronicity, one of the Festival founders is Tatiana Copeland, a grandniece of the composer.
TheRussian National Orchestra performed at the 1,200-seat Napa Valley Performing Arts Center at Lincoln Theater in Yountville, one of the villages of the Valley.
Benjamin Oberman and his wife, Dr. Melina Jampolis, a nutrition specialist and TV personality who spoke on “Cabernet & Chocolate” as part of the Festival’s “Wellness Conversations.”Donna Long, Martha Bredon, and Kay and Steve Fike represented the new bootie fashion.
The night’s performance was sold out and the Lincoln Theatre atrium was packed with a crowd eager for wine-tasting opportunities.
VIP LOUNGE
In the new VIP lounge at Lincoln Theater, supporters sipped wines provided by Gerret and Tatiana Copeland from their award-winning Bouchaine Vineyards, located in the Carneros district of Napa Valley.IMG Artists President and CEO Jerry Inzerillo with Michael Madden, executive director of the Napa Valley Performing Arts Center at Lincoln Theater.
Dick Kramlich and Andy Pilara brought wine to their friends.
Maria Manetti Shrem, Pam Kramlich, and Mary Pilara.
THE MUSIC PROGRAM

Accompanied by the Russian National Orchestra, Festival favorite Jean-Yves Thibaudet played the rarely performed Camille Saint-Saëns “Egyptian” Piano Concerto No. 5 before a large crowd at the Lincoln Theater in Yountville.
Italian conductor Carlo Montanaro was discovered by conductor Zubin Mehta and is now music director at Teatr Wielki in Warsaw.
Jean-Yves Thibaudet, known for his technical prowess, is a very sought-after soloist who made his performance debut at age 7.
Thibaudet demonstrated grace under pressure when shortly after he began to play, one of the piano keys proved unresponsive. In short order, a dusty rehearsal piano was found, and Thibaudet returned to the stage and resumed the concert.
My seatmate remarked that the pianist was no prima donna, or he would have refused to play on anything but a concert-quality baby grand. The orchestra received a thunderous standing ovation; a little drama no doubt made the audience especially appreciative.

VINTNER’S LUNCHEON AT MARTIN ESTATE

I’ve known Martin Estate Winery proprietors Petra and Greg Martin for years, so of course I was happy to attend their Vintner’s Luncheon. Long-time fine art collectors, the couple purchased their 1887 historical three-story stone chateau in 1996 and have lovingly restored it.
The now renovated historic Martin Estate is filled with 18th- and 19th-century antiques, and eludes an “Old World” charm.
MARTIN ESTATE – ANTIQUES AND ARMS & ARMOR

Greg Martin has been involved with numerous episodes of the History Channel series Tales of the Gun, was an appraiser in the early years of Antiques Roadshow, and hosted more than 200 episodes of HGTV’s Appraise Itwith Jan Yanehiro. He even joined the Mythbusters for an episode on Japanese armor.
Greg Martin in his office, in front of a George Washington portrait Jane Stuart painted in her father Gilbert Stuart’s studio.
Greg’s highly regarded private collections are often on loan to museums. To house many of his prized pieces, he endowed the Greg Martin Colt Gallery at the Autry National Center in Los Angeles.

When I remarked that his house is like a museum, Greg countered, “—except you can play with the toys!”
The many pianists who have practiced on the Martin Estate’s 1910 Bechstein concert grand piano include the renowned Simone Dinnerstein, Christopher Taylor, Andrew van Oeyen, Conrad Tao, and Joyce Yang.
THE MARTIN ESTATE CELLAR

Greg led me on a tour of the 12-acre estate’s stone chateau winery, located in the Rutherford Appellation, famous for its Cabernet Sauvignons. The Martin family lives upstairs and the winery is on the first level: a nice commute!
Just as in 1887, all Martin Estate Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignon is estate grown and entirely handcrafted—produced and bottled on the premises.
All wines are aged in French oak barrels selected by Martin Estate’s award-winning French-trained winemaker Aaron Pott, voted 2012 Winemaker of the Year by Food & Wine magazine.
VIP GARDEN LUNCHEON
HostGreg Martin, pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet, host Petra Martin, and Paul Paradis.
Lunch was served under umbrellas in the garden. Perfect for a hot summer day, the menu began with an ahi tuna Niçoise salad accompanied by the 2012 Martin Estate Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Greg said this dark-hued rosé was made like a fine wine, aged in neutral oak. Paul Paradis remarked that it was not only refreshing and fun to drink, but it also had more body than usual. “There’s no wimpy Rosé here,” Greg responded.
The main course was a grilled bavette (skirt steak) with crushed fingerling potatoes and haricots verts, as well as grilled wild salmon with garden vegetables, paired with the 2010 Martin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
For dessert, we enjoyed tarte tatin with crème fraîche and rosemary syrup, paired with 2007 Martin Estate Gold Late Harvest Dessert Wine, which Wine Enthusiast magazine awarded 94 points.
Festival Director Rick Walker presented Petra and Greg Martin with a gift from Tiffany & Co. in thanks for “providing the rehearsal piano, hosting us in their incredible chateau, and gifting us with such magnificent wine.”
In return, Greg toasted Rick Walker “for your vision and persistence in making all my dreams of classical music in Napa come true. I will always support the Festival.”
Robert Marinelli practiced the “wine wave,” in which you clink your glass to the person next to you, who then turns to the person on their other side and does the same, and on it goes.
Benefactors Jan Shrem and Maria Manetti Shrem.
Dr. Allan Basbaum and Marcia Fortnoff with Mark Pope (left) of Bounty Hunter wine scouts, who said, “Great wines don’t show up on your doorstep. You have to hunt them out.”
Greg Martin, Jeanne Lawrence, and Petra Martin, who has been proactive in successfully promoting Martin Estate wine in China.
Mark your calendars for next year’s Festival, July 11–20, 2014, for a Napa Valley experience unlike any other. Patrons interested in buying tickets can find more information on the Festival’s website, http://festivaldelsole.org.
Photos by Drew Altizer, Moanalani Jeffrey, and Jeanne Lawrence.

*Urbanite Jeanne Lawrence reports on lifestyle and travel from her homes in San Francisco, Shanghai, and New York, and wherever else she finds a good story.

San Francisco Social Diary

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In 2013, the annual Festival del Sole once again drew artists and audiences to the Napa Valley with unique venues and a tradition of vintner hospitality.
by Jeanne Lawrence

FESTIVAL DEL SOLE – NAPA VALLEY
PART II

The annual ten-day Festival del Sole celebrates the fine arts in life, including music, dance, visual art, culinary arts, and wine making, with spectacular events held throughout the Napa Valley.

Part I of my coverage describes some of the food, music, and wine events. The story continues:

FESTIVAL GALA AT MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY

During the Festival del Sole, local vintners open their famed wine estates to guests, hosting fabulous soirees and meals prepared by local celebrity chefs and featuring local produce. Sunday Night was the Festival’s Annual Gala at St. Helena’s Meadowood Resort, a 250-acre private wooded estate.

Surrounded by meadows and rolling greens, with not a grape in sight, one guest said, “I feel that I’ve been transported some place other than Napa.” As he was intended to be:  the party’s theme was “The Great Gatsby,” from the F. Scott Fitzgerald novel set on the coast of Long Island.   
Meadowood Napa Valley is a luxury resort with golf, tennis, croquet, swimming, spa, and a three-star Michelin restaurant; many of the local vintners use it as their country club.
THE GREAT GATSBY THEME

Guests complied with the request to come dressed in white and got into the spirit of the Gatsy theme in glamorous ’20s-inspired garb, setting an elegant mood.
Many wore flapper-style dresses or actual vintage pieces accessorized with strands of pearls, diamond brooches, and hair ornaments.
Alton Irby, Daru Kawalkowski, and Trish and Don Stephens. The men looked dapper in simple white linen and vests, leaving it to the women to add the sparkle.
ROARING TWENTIES COCKTAILS
During an al fresco cocktail hour, guests munched on Parmesan lobster appetizers and sipped champagne—Domaine Carneros by Taittinger—from coupe glasses,that were fashionable in the ’20s.
Guests were treated to a world-class croquet exhibition on the immaculately manicured championship lawns.
Strolling to the fairways, guests watched the sun set before heading to dinner in the meadows.
Jeanne Lawrence, pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet, Maria Manetti Shrem, and Paul Paradis.
Festival benefactors and board members Timothy and Athena Blackburn with Kimberlee and Ray Raby, General Manager of Tiffany San Francisco.
Jean-Yves Thibaudet, Martha Bredon, Kay Saatchi, and Wes Carroll.
David Dube, Heather Ryan, Festival patrons Pepper and Michael Jackson, and Meagan Stasz.
New Yorkers Trish Grady and Polly Onet.
Marion Olin and Joe Betz.Ortwin Krueger and his wife, former New Hampshire senator Pat Krueger.
Teresa Rodriguez with festival benefactors Tatiana and Gerret Copeland.
Benjamin Oberman with wife Melina Jampolis, Maggie and Steve Oetgen, and Robert Nelson.
Ron and Sheila Light, Festival Director Rick Walker, and Venus and Narsai David.
Kathryn Walt Hall, Elisabeth Thieriot, and George Mickum.
Mara Sistino, conductor Carlo Montanaro, and Festival board member Antonio Castellucci.
Guests praised the intimate setting and enjoyed being close to the stage to listen to the Concord Jazz All Stars.
AL FRESCO DINNER
Festival Director Rick Walker welcomed the crowd, noting that he had just come from a free concert performed by musicians from Orchestra Institute Napa Valley, which drew a crowd of more than 1,000 music-lovers.
The music of the Russian National Orchestra Percussion Ensemble summoned us to dinner, and in came the servers marching like a well-coordinated garrison.
The first course was a duck confit, squab, and guinea hen galantine with summer truffle and frisée, served with 2012 Intrada Sauvignon Blanc.
Our entrée was ribeye “cap & eye,” marble potatoes, Meadowood garden vegetables, and watercress, served with hand-selected 2007 Lokoya Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, capped off with a light dessert of cheese and pear.
ENTERTAINMENT
Everyone enjoyed the lively performances by Julio Reyes, Brian Nova, Tom Scott, and Carlos Reyes before and after the meal.
Drummer and producerGregg Field thanked Festival del Sole for a truly world- class benefit evening.
SingerMonicaMancini, daughter of the late composer Henry Mancini, was later joined by her mother Virginia Mancini, who flew in from Los Angeles.
THE AUCTION
Fritz Hatton, my former colleague from Christie’s, was an exuberant auctioneer who kept the bidding for one-of-a-kind experiences high-energy.
Festival board chair Darioush Khaledi encouraged the crowd to bid: “The more  glasses of wine that go down, the more the number of hands that go  up, so please raise your glass and drink all the way.”
Top row (l. to r.): Robert Marinelli, Kay Saatchi, Wes Carroll, Jeanne Lawrence, Jan Shrem, Ken Monnens, and Jim Uyeda. Bottom row (l. to r.): Valerie and Jeff Gargiulo, Maria Manetti Shrem, Carlo Montanaro, and Mara Sistino.
Anita and Ron Wornick.
Top row (l. to r.):Dariush Gabbay, Darioush Khaledi, Dr. Kevin Ariani, Dr. Hooshang Semnani, Lida Ariani, Eli Semnani. Bottom row (l. to r.): Haleh Gabbay, Michael and Katy Saei.
Festival Director of Marketing and Operations Sonia Tolbert, Festival Director Rick Walker, and IMG Artists’ Greg Calejo.
AFTER-PARTY MIX

A nice cross-section of attendees from Napa Valley, Los Angeles, and New York, the guests stayed on to mingle with one another. It was a relaxed and pleasant environment to greet old friends and make new ones.

Meeting for the first time, Patricia Stevens excitedly told Julia Wainwright, founder of luxury designer resale website TheRealReal.com, “I’m one of your biggest customers, trust me. I’m up at 7 a.m. and bidding away!”
IMG Artists President and CEO Jerry Inzerillo, actor Jeffrey Wright, and IMG Artists co-chair Alexander Shustorovich.
IMG Artists co-chair Barrett Wissman and his wife, cellist Nina Kotova.
Michael Polenske, Carol and Jon Sebastiani, Laurie Nigliazzo, and Richard von Saal.
IMG Executive Producer and Festival Producer Charles Letourneau with some admirers.
The idea evening began with watching the sun set and continued as we enjoyed the best food and wine by moonlight, serenaded by a jazz ensemble.
VINTNERS LUNCHEON AT MA(I)SONRY

On Wednesday, I dined at Ma(i)sonry, with its owner, my friend Michael Polenske and his fiancée Kim Miller,editor of Napa Sonoma Magazine. Michael is also proprietor of Blackbird Vineyards, one of the Festival’s founding wineries.

When I first met Michael, he had just moved to Napa Valley and bought Blackbird.  He adds new ventures constantly, and I joked that someday I expect he’ll own the entire Valley. 
Kim Miller, Michael Polenske, and Jeanne Lawrence.
THE HISTORIC BUILDING

The Ma(i)sonry property, located in Yountville,has been one of my favorites for years.  An original stone house, it’s one of only two local buildings listed on the National Register of Historic places.
Yountville—one of the country’s food capitals and home to The French Laundry—is a charming town filled with homes such as this.
Michael has renovated the former private residence and created a lifestyle space that combines wine tasting with art in a private club-like atmosphere—the perfect backdrop for savoring limited production, boutique wines.
Ma(i)sonry offers wine tastings in private rooms and in the outdoor gardens, which are landscaped around architectural remnants, contemporary sculpture, and a stone fire pit.
Longtime festival patronJose Luis Nazar with an antique bicycle complete with sidecar.
The restaurant/gallery hosts events ranging from an intimate Valentine’s Day tête-à-tête to a 200-guest banquet.
The name Ma(i)sonry—with a lower case “i” in parentheses—is a hybrid combining the word maison (French for “home”) and masonry (the craft of working with stones), reflecting its historic origins and its goal of representing “a life aesthetic.”
Ma(i)sonry showcases a rotating collection of wines from 22 boutique vintner partners.
SIPPING WINE IN THE GARDEN
We enjoyed a casual wine tasting under umbrellas on the grounds.
Festival Director of Marketing & Operations Sonia Tolbert with Michael Polenske.
Diablo Publications Founder and President Steve Rivera and Diablo Group Publisher Barney Fonzi.
A FAMILY-STYLE LUNCHEON
We lunched outdoors, seated beneath century-old olive trees, and enjoyed wine pairings from the Bespoke Collection of brands—Blackbird Vineyards, Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley, and Recuerdo Wines.
Michael toasted us and talked of his wine and the Festival.
The wine flowed and the appetizers kept coming.
Maryam Pak and Shahpar Khaledi.
Chef Richard Haake prepared a casual summer meal that we loved: family-style platters of the freshest produce from the gardens—and fish, for a change.
Katherine Schmidt and Michael Polenske.
Greg Calejo and Kim Miller.
Kim Miller was named editor of Napa SonomaMagazine earlier this year.Brian Ball, wine educator for Ma(i)sonry.
We all loved the relaxed atmosphere and the splendid setting.
THE 24 HOUR PLAYS

An evening of “extreme theatre,” called 24 Hour Plays, was a very popular ticket again this year.  The audience liked seeing award-winning, big-name actors up close in four one-act plays that they, along with writers and directors, created, wrote, rehearsed, and performed in the space of 24 hours.

This year’s participants included film and television stars Allison Janney, Christopher Meloni, Alfre Woodard, Chazz and Gianna Palminteri, Jim O’Heir, Amy Povich, Kathy Garver, Tamara Tunie, Thomas Sadoski, and Star Jones, guided by Hollywood directors David Siegel and Scott McGehee.
Actress Alfre Woodard was nominated for her eighteenth Emmy Award earlier in the week.
Law & Order: SVU alumsChristopher Meloni and Tamara Tunie appeared in a dance performance.
Christopher Meloni with festival co-founder Barrett Wissman and his wife Nina Kotova.
Kathy Garver.
Matthew Vincent, Thomas Sadoski, and Kristie Janczyk.
Amy Povich, Gianna Palminteri, Gizem Yucel.
David Siegel, Allison Janney, and Scott McGehee.
Star Jones, Prudence and Jerry Inzerillo, Helena Zakade Inzerillo, Alfre Woodard, and friend.
Prudence Inzerillo, Star Jones, Helena Zakade Inzerillo, Alfre Woodard, Tamara Tunie, and Gianna Palminteri.
RACHMANINOFF 140TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION AT OPUS ONE

Happy Birthday, Sergei! A “once-in-a-lifetime event” to celebrate the 140th anniversary of composer Sergei Rachmaninoff’s birth, the soiree at Opus One Winery was another highlight of the Festival. It showed once again the power of the arts to bring different peoples together.
The colossal Opus One Winery in Oakville (Napa Valley) features distinctive exterior architecture made of Texas limestone.
THE STORY BEHIND OPUS ONE

Opus One is the realization of a dream shared by Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Château Mouton Rothschild and Napa Valley Vintner Robert Mondavi.

I looked forward to this occasion a great deal, both to hear cellist Nina Kotova perform and to visit Opus One, which I hadn’t visited recently. I have many fond memories of time spent with Margrit and Bob Mondavi at this magnificent compound.
Opus One is situated in the Oakville Appellation of Napa Valley, across the road from the Mondavi Vineyard.
Mondavi and de Rothschild produced their first vintage in 1979 and opened Opus One as a winery in 1991. Its vineyards comprise 169 acres and are planted with the traditional Bordeaux grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.
The wine label features a silhouette of Mondavi and Rothschild, founders of the vineyard.
Several 18th-century French pieces are incorporated with contemporary bronze furniture designed by Philippe Anthonioz of Paris in the décor of Opus One’s great salon.
THE SETTING OVERLOOKING THE VINEYARDS
We sat in the courtyard of Opus One, amid the vineyards and old growth oak trees, enjoying the perfect weather and the caressing breezes.
Looking through the arches before us, we could see the famous vineyards and mountains (Mount Veeder) and watch the sun set over the Valley.
THE MUSICAL PROGRAM

Three extraordinary artists from Russia—cellist Nina Kotova, soprano Erika Baikoff, and pianist Vadym Kholodenko, who won gold in the 2013 Van Cliburn competition—performed some of Rachmaninoff’s most beloved work.
Rising star Erika Baikoff, 19, performed in the Festival’s Bouchaine Young Artist series. This talented soprano, a Princeton student, sang “like an angel,” my seatmate exclaimed.
NINA KOTOVA

Lovely Nina Kotova has participated in the Festival every year. Hailing from a musical family, she studied at the Moscow Conservatory and Musikhochschule in Germany, and was an orchestral soloist for the first time at age 11.
Nina Kotova’s cello, a gift from her husband, Festival co-founder and artistic director Barrett Wissman, is the 1673 Stradivarius that was once owned by the late Jacqueline du Pré.
Sibylle Szaggars, Festival Artistic Director Barrett Wissman, Nina Kotova, and Vadym Kholodenko.
DINNER AT OPUS ONE

With so many of the Festival founders present, the evening was a sort of family night, more so since it was a celebration of the 140th anniversary of the birth of Rachmaninoff, the grand-uncle of Festival founding benefactor Tatiana Copeland.
James and Doreen Ho with Athena and Timothy Blackburn.
Mara Sistino, Carlo Montanaro, Darioush Khaledi, Vida Vazim (seated), Maryam Pak, Shahpar Khaledi, and Hoshang Pak.
Donna Long, Gordon Getty, and Pepper Jackson.
Tom Perkins, Jeanne Lawrence, Jan Shrem, Dolly Chammas, and Maria Manetti Shrem.
Supervisor Bill Dodd and his wife Mary with Kathryn Walt Hall and CraigHall.
Rick Niello with Bobbi and Michael Brown.
Pascal and Melanie Levensohn.
THE CAVES AND PLENTY OF TOASTS

Following the concert, guests descended from the Rotunda to dine in the romantically lit cellar where the wine is aged.
Opus One’s $26.5 million winery features a gravity-flow system that moves its signature Bordeaux-style red wines deep underground to a breathtaking semicircular barrel room.
IMG Artists co-chair Alexander Shustorovich said, “Russians are sentimental and emotional”—especially when they are celebrating a special event like the commemoration of Rachmaninoff’s birth.
Festival founding benefactor Tatiana Copeland gave an emotional toast: “I grew up to this music,” she recalled.  “This is truly what dreams are made of.”   
Margit Mondavi responded, “It’s wonderful to see the Festival succeed, to hear great talent in the vineyards. Robert [her late husband] believed wine belongs with art and music. I’m sure he’s watching from the clouds and saying, ‘Bravo.’”
THE CUISINE
We also celebrated the birthday of Festival benefactor Jan Shrem, the proprietor of Clos Pegase Winery, in attendance with his wife Maria Manetti Shrem.
First course was yellowtail carpaccio with lemon, lime, and chili oil, served with Fume Blanc Reserve 2011 from Robert Mondavi Winery.
The entrée was Colorado rack of lamb with wild mushroom quinoa and black truffle reduction, paired with Opus One 2009 and Opus One 2005.
Dessert was blood orange cake with orange bergamot cream, served with Château Coutet 1997.
Dinner guests were serenaded by a quintet of string musicians.
Pepper Jackson, Jeanne Lawrence, and Margrit Mondavi
Board memberSteve Stull and his wife Claire.
Antonio Castellucci and Olivia Decker.
It was another unforgettable evening of musical and gastronomic pleasures.
Mark your calendars for next year’s Festival del Sole, July 11–20, 2014, for a Napa Valley experience unlike any other. Patrons who would like to buy tickets can find more information at the Festival’s website, http://festivaldelsole.org.
Photos by Jeanne Lawrence, Drew Altizer, and Moanalani Jeffrey.

*Urbanite Jeanne Lawrence reports on lifestyle and travel from her homes in San Francisco, Shanghai, and New York, and wherever else she finds a good story.

Sea Island Social Diary

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Spanish Lounge, Cloister at Sea Island. In 2003, artifacts were salvaged from architect Addison Mizner's original 1920s Spanish Lounge before the demolition of the historic Cloister Inn on Sea Island. Three years later, those vestiges were reassembled as part of a more luxurious Cloister. The portraits of Sea Island founder Howard Coffin and his first wife Matilda were painted from the originals by Christophe Goodstein, especially for the restored Spanish Lounge.
High Life in the Low Country: Sea Island & St. Simons Island
By Augustus Mayhew

When Travel + Leisure magazine named The Cloister & The Lodge at Sea Island the2013top resort in the United States, the recognition most likely fulfilled the vision of the resort’s founder Howard Coffin who had commissioned architect Addison Mizner to design the original more restrained Cloister in 1928.  Already a Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five-Diamond rated vacation spot, a recent New York Times feature christened Sea Island/St. Simons Island “A New Capital of U.S. Golf,” after the Sea Island Golf Club’s resident touring pro Davis Love III was named captain of the 2012 Ryder Cup team.

Although only fragments from the Mizner-designed 46-room inn were incorporated into the resort’s $500 million makeover opened in 2006, the renewed sense of place exudes an incomparable Mediterranean ambiance that now places it among the world’s best rather than simply a getaway for high-cotton Atlantans looking for an alternative to Sea Island’s nearby competitors, Hilton Head and The Ritz-Carlton on Amelia Island. 

Howard Earle Coffin(1873-1937). An automotive magnate credited with the development of the Hudson Motor Company, Coffin settled along the south Georgia coast in 1911. He acquired Sea Island in 1926 and sought to build a hotel with a golf course to attract buyers who would build cottages on his 3.5 mile island.
Last week, I visited St. Simons and Sea Island as a guest lecturer of the Coastal Georgia Historical Society, the organization dedicated to preserve St. Simon and Sea Island’s historical and cultural resources.  A part of their summer Chautauqua Lecture Series, I spoke to a polite captive audience of 200 on “Ultimate Destinations: Addison Mizner’s Palm Beach, Boca Raton & Sea Island.” After my presentation, where I spotted only two audience members dashing to the doors, I went to an enjoyable dinner with Bill and Anne Stembler, the historical society’s president, Leigh and Thad Truett, and the society’s curator Mimi Rogers

The day of my lecture, Mimi and I went to lunch at The River Bar with Merry Tipton, The Cloister’s corporate communications director, who gave us an extensive tour of The Cloister’s various family-friendly pleasure-dome facilities where Southern Hospitality means unobtrusive service and “custom-made furniture from China, woven carpets from Turkey, draperies from English 18th-century looms, and antique hardwoods from shipwrecks at the bottoms of North American rivers,” according to published reports.  The following day, I explored St. Simon Island’s eclectic mix of oak-shaded commercial venues and varied low-key residential expressions, resisting a stop at the popular Southern Soul Barbecue restaurant. 

Then, I crossed the nearby causeway framed by saltwater marshes onto Sea Island, the private 3.5 mile residential enclave, where I was delighted to find traditional 1920s-1930s works by architect Francis Abreu.  Astonishingly, Cottage Ten, the house Addison Mizner designed for A. W. (Bill) and Katharine (Kit) Jones, appears to be in much the same architectural formation and arrangement as when it was built in 1928.  The Mizner house’s longevity is even more improbable when you consider the out-of-the-blue cottage across the street — Entelechy II, a 12,000-square-foot magnum opus modernum designed and built during the mid-1980s by Atlanta’s storied architect John Portman.

Here is a look at some of my moments on the barrier islands off the South Georgia coast.

St. Simons Island
The Coastal Georgia Historical Society arranged for me to stay at the Saint Simons Inn by the Lighthouse, located across the street from the A.W. Jones Heritage Center. However dramatic and magnificent the landscape and architecture, I wasn't prepared for a persistent fogging camera lens caused by the daytime August humidity.
At the A. W. Jones Heritage Center, pictured above, the Coastal Georgia Historical Society presented an August lecture series on architects John Portman, Addison Mizner, John Russell Pope, and James Hamilton Couper, sponsored by Wells Fargo Advisors.
Since the Cloister at Sea Island took its inspiration and name from Mizner's Ritz-Carlton Cloister Inn, I spoke on the links during the 1920s between Paris Singer's development of Palm Beach, Addison Mizner's Boca Raton, and Howard Coffin's Sea Island.
For the most part, Sea Island Drive is a beautifully landscaped two-lane one-road lined with rows of attractive interpretations of picturesque architectural standards. The discerning low-key profile reminded me of many of the more than 600 Palm Beach houses demolished in the past 30 years during the "Make Every House a Mansion Movement."
Entelechy II, Cottage 428. Sea Island. Of course, there is always the exception. Thirty years ago, architect John Portman's otherworldly seaside beach house caused a kerfuffle when its columns were being installed to support a massive concrete sunscreen. In my opinion, Addison Mizner would have loved it.
Looking towards the pier at the end of Mallery Street, the walk along St. Simons Sound seems a continent away from the mainland rather than an eight-mile drive across the causeway from the town of Brunswick.
Addison Mizner on Sea Island

When Howard Coffin balked at architect Schultze and Weaver’s plans to build an eight-story “Palace by the Sea” as the main attraction for his Sea Island development, he sent his cousin, Bill Jones, and other  staff members to South Florida to look at other options.  In April 1926, Jones wrote to Coffin about Addison Mizner’s Ritz-Carlton Cloister Inn:

“The orthodox commercial atmosphere is entirely lacking at The Cloister in Boca Raton. There is an atmosphere of absolute peace, content and calm.  It is like living in the most beautiful home in the world with a perfect personal service that has tremendous appeal. Boca Raton is the most beautiful place I have seen in Florida.  Add to that the fact Addison Mizner best understands just what to give people and you have the perfect solution.”

Coffin hired Mizner and the architect’s plans for Sea Island were announced in April 1928.  Since Mizner’s Boca Raton venture slipped into bankruptcy when The Boom went bust, and would be renamed the Boca Raton Club by its new owner, Coffin utilized the Cloister name at Sea Island.
Featuring a lakeside profile of the Ritz-Carlton Cloister in Boca Raton, the Mizner Development Company was first financed by a syndicate led by Rodman Wanamaker.
This architectural model under Plexiglas of Mizner's original Ritz-Carlton Cloister is in the lobby of the Boca Raton Resort.
Addison Mizner's plans for the Cloister at Sea Island appeared in Architecture magazine, January 1929.
Cloister at Sea Island, under construction. Fall, 1928.
The Cloister at Sea Island, 1928. Addison Mizner, architect. Lester Geisler, associate architect.
The Cloister at Sea Island opened on 12 October 1928 as a 46-room three-story inn set on 1,200 acres. Following Coffin's sudden tragic death in 1937, his cousin A. W. "Bill" Jones inherited his development holdings. By 2003, The Cloister had expanded into a 269-room complex when Jones' son, A. W. "Bill" Jones III, demolished the original and undertook a three-year reported $500 million makeover that transformed The Cloister into a world-class resort.
Cottage 10, East 26th Street (Spalding Lane)
Addison Mizner, architect.


During one of Addison Mizner's visits to Sea Island, Howard Coffin's cousin Bill Jones asked Mizner to design a cottage for him and his new wife Katharine. While not rendered like one of the architect's more recognizable Spanish or Italian motifs, Cottage 10 featured tabby construction, composed of lime, water, sand, oyster shells, and ash, as well as a spacious loggia looking towards the ocean, and a large living room. In a 1981 interview with the late Mizner scholar Donald Curl, Jones told Curl that when his wife asked for a fireplace mantle, Mizner said it was unnecessary because " … some
When it was built, Cottage 10's tabby construction blended in with the island's existing cottages.
Cottage Ten, entrance. For me, the house is reminiscent of Mizner's Old Floresta houses in Boca Raton.
Cottage Ten. The large lengthy living room separated the loggia, to the right overlooking the pool and facing the ocean, from the front entrance and sleeping rooms located above.
The Cloister at Sea Island
Peter Capone, architect - Vassa Cate, landscape design - Interior design, Pamela Hughes
Sea Island is a private resort and residential island.
A panoramic view of the saltwater marshes approaching Sea Island from St. Simons Island with The Cloister's Main Building, far right, elevation facing the Black Banks River.
The Cloister at Sea Island, riverfront elevation. The $350 million Main Building houses guest rooms and suites as well as the Georgian Room and the River Bar restaurants. Nearby accommodations offer oceanfront villas, townhouses, condominiums, and cottages.
The Cloister, porte cochere.
The Cloister, entrance.
Mimi Rogers, the historical society and the resort's curator, stayed ten steps ahead of me.
Colonial Lounge, view looking towards the river.The arcaded galleries provide access to the guest suites and overlook the spacious Colonial Lounge.
Colonial Lounge staircase leads up to the guest accommodations from the Colonial Lounge.
David Carrier, The Cloister's executive chef.
According to some reports, as much as $1 million was spent for each guest accommodation.
The Cloister
Solarium
Solarium.
Solarium. Sea island mural.
Spanish Lounge

The Spanish Lounge is a re-creation of the original Mizner-designed lounge featured in the original 1928 Cloister. Three pairs of Gothic windows were salvaged, as well as a pair of Mizner-designed chandeliers, a fireplace plaque from Mizner Industries, and some furnishings. These architectural elements were integrated into The Cloister's new opulent Main Building.
The Spanish Lounge.
Original Spanish Lounge, Cloister Inn, c. 1928. Addison Mizner, architect. Furnishings by Mizner Industries. Courtesy Coastal Georgia Historical Society.
The Spanish Lounge, Gothic multi-colored leaded-glass window. Mizner Industries.
Spanish Lounge.
Spanish Lounge, fireplace plaque.Spanish Lounge. A wrought-iron chandelier manufactured by Mizner Industries.
Spanish Lounge.
Georgian Room

Georgia's only Forbes Five-Star dining experience, the carpet in the Georgian Room was handmade in Thailand. Weighing 2,000 pounds, it features the flora and fauna found on Sea Island.
The Georgian Room offers "Refined Southern" cuisine.
The Georgian Room, private dining room.
Cloister Spa

If a jaunt to Bali sounds too time-consuming, you might consider Sea Island's $65 million Balinese-styled spa. I was impressed. The facility features a woodsy soaring atrium, a cathedral-sized swimming pavilion, rivulets and koi ponds, and numerous treatment rooms. The fitness area includes three squash courts and a resident squash pro.
Spa, entrance.
A cloistered courtyard separates the Spa's treatment rooms from the fitness center.
The atrium features a heated whirlpool.
Spa, atrium.
1:47 p.m. and the staff at the Fitness Center is ready to serve.
Fitness Café, menu.
Spa, heated lap pool.
G8 Summit at The Cloister, Sea Island
June 8-10 2004


In 2004, The Cloister at Sea Island hosted the G8 Summit.
G8 Summit. You remember them, the players at Sea Island.
G8 Summit, 2004.
The Lodge at Sea Island

Said to be inspired by the architecture of English country manor houses, the $52 million Lodge and Retreat Golf Course opened in 2001 as a golfer's paradise on nearby St. Simons Island. The Lodge's 40 guest rooms are enhanced with 24-hr. butler service and a sunset bagpiper.
The Lodge at Sea island.
The Lodge, port cochere entrance.
The Lodge, living room reception.
The Lodge, living room reception.
The Lodge. The Colt & Alison restaurant was named after golf course architects Harry Colt and Charles Alison.
The Lodge, reception area.
From the Lodge's terrace, guests have a view across the fairway of Jekyll Island.
The Lodge affords a club-like sense of privacy.
The Lodge.
The Lodge.
In early November, resident pro Davis Love III hosts the McGladrey Classic, a PGA-FedEx Cup tournament.
Sea Island Scenes

Approximately one-fourth of the more than 600 homes and condominiums on Sea Island are available as vacation rentals. Residences range from three-bedroom cottages and condominiums to luxurious seven-bedroom homes. For further information contact: www.seaisland.com.
Sea Island Drive is an approx.. 3.5 mile road extending from the security gatehouse to the tip of the island where a two-acre marsh front estate recently sold for $8 million.
An eight-step walk-up to the front door of this low-country classic.
Stunning!
An understated discreet façade with substance and style.
This reminded me of all the Henry Harding-designed houses in the Palm Beach area that have been demolished.
Magnolia magna colossala.
Entelechy II
Cottage 428- 113 East 26th Street


Designed and built as a contemporary three-story seaside retreat in 1985 by architect John Portman, Entelechy II is located on three parcels extending about two acres from Sea Island Drive to the oceanfront. The 12-room house valued at $6.75 million features eight bedrooms within 12,568 square-feet of living area and a 30 by 40 pool, according to the property appraiser's web site. Here are a few views from the Mizner house across the street,
Entelechy II.
St. Simons Island
A, W. Jones Heritage Center, view from the lighthouse.
The 104-foot lighthouse tower has a 129-step cast-iron spiral staircase and an adjacent keeper's house designed by one of Georgia's most noted architects, Charles Cluskey. The 1872 lighthouse keeper's dwelling is a unique Victorian design built of Savannah gray brick. The house served as a home for the lighthouse keepers from 1872 until 1950.
In 2004, the lighthouse was deeded to the Coastal Georgia Historical Society under the Lighthouse Preservation Act. Today, with the assistance of the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, the light continues as an Aid to Navigation, shining seaward every night and during inclement weather.
The historic waterfront gazebo.
Simply sensational! Palmer's Village Café. Mallery Street.
St. Simons Island storefronts are predominately post-WW II plate-glass and concrete buildings.
The Pier Village Marketplace on Mallery Street is a charming exception, an island ambiance.
Pier Village Marketplace.
Pier Village Marketplace.
Palm Coast Café — where everyone is on island time.
Early morning on St. Simons Sound, view towards the ocean.
Photographs by Augustus Mayhew.

Augustus Mayhew is the author ofLost in Wonderland – Reflections on Palm Beach.

San Francisco Social Diary

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In 2013, the annual Festival del Sole once again drew artists and audiences to the Napa Valley with unique venues and a tradition of vintner hospitality.
by Jeanne Lawrence

FESTIVAL DEL SOLE – NAPA VALLEY
PART III

The annual ten-day Festival del Sole celebrates the fine arts in life, including music, dance, visual art, culinary arts, and wine making, with spectacular events held throughout the Napa Valley.

Parts I and Part II of my coverage describe some of the food, music, and wine events. The story continues:

DARIOUSH WINERY: CELEBRATING PERSIAN AND RUSSIAN DYNASTIES

Credit Shahpar and Darioush Khaledi and Tatiana and Gerret Copeland with the clever idea of highlighting the culture of two great dynasties, Persia and Russia, to create one of the most exotic of the Festival’s parties.

The lavish experience took place against the stunning architectural backdrop of the Darioush Winery. Its founder, Darioush Khaledi, was raised in the Shiraz region of Iran, and the building evokes the ancient city of Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of Iran (formerly Persia) from 550–330 BCE.
The entrance of the Darioush Winery, built of Persian straw travertine stone, is flanked by 18-foot columns topped with depictions of bulls.
HOSTING WINERIES BOUCHAINE & DARIOUSH

The fantasy evening was hosted by Bouchaine Vineyards and Darioush Winery, two of Festival del Sole’s founding wineries. Just six vintners participated in the first Festival del Sole, and now there are more than 100—with others on a waiting list!
Darioush Winery is noted for its Bordeaux-style wines and Bouchaine Winery for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Tatiana Copeland exclaimed that a festival dedicated to Sergei Rachmaninoff on his 140th birthday was “an occasional for indulgence.” (Remember, she’s his grandniece.)  
Hosts Darioush and Shahpar Khaledi with Tatiana and Gerret Copeland.
COCKTAIL HOUR
Shahpar Khaledi filled her beautiful antique Persian samovars with greenery and used them for decoration.Pomegranates—native to Persia, one of the oldest fruits, and used generously in Middle Eastern cooking—were yet another way to carry out the Persian theme.
Of course the Russian cuisine was represented by a profusion of caviar and blinis.
The musicians of the Russian National Orchestra played for the guests.
Paul and Vida Vazin, Margrit Mondavi, and Shahpar and Darioush Khaledi.
Shahla Hemmat, Athena Blackburn, Farah Jazayeri, and Olga Sadovskaya.
Timothy Blackburn with Marilyn and Steven Rivera.
Bita Milanian and Behrooz Ghavrami.Brandie Dixon LaFond and Jason LaFond.
Paul Paradis, Jean-Yves Thibaudet, Bernard Hervet, Patrick Leon, Darioush Khaledi, and Jean-Charles Boisset.
Catherine Schmidt and Roberta Sherman.Ron and Andrea Marano.
Mavash Yazdi, Mory Ejabat, Rhonda Coldiron, Aey Phanachet, and Roger Evans.
John Hinds, Pamela Baxter, and Alicia and Dan Bythewood.
Ali Razi, Farrokh Shokooh, and Anoosheh Alan Oskouian.
Avo Tavitian, Jose Luis Nazar, and Cecelia Petersson.
THE MUSICAL PERFORMANCE IN THE AMPHITHEATER

The vintners and proprietors bring their own personalities to their properties, so the ambience and experience of each venue is unique, giving Napa Valley an international quality

One admiring guest said Darioush was an over-the-top host, in typical Persian fashion and in accordance with his heritage. Think of the grandeur of the Shah and the city of Dario at ancient Persepolis.
Paul Paradis, Festival Artistic Director Barrett Wissman, cellist Nina Kotova, and pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet.
Gerret and Tatiana Copeland and Darioush and Shahpar Khaledi welcoming the crowd.
Quite a visionary, Darioush incorporated an amphitheater into his winery’s design.  It has become a popular site for performers such as the evening’s star, Persian folk singer  Mamak Khadem.
Grammy-winner Khadem performed with both Persian and Russian dancers. Where else in the world could you see such a sight?
THE EXOTIC AND EXTRAVAGANT DINNER

Patron and guest CatherineSchmidt marveled at the tent—“the biggest I’ve seen, and so intricately designed with exotic scalloped borders and tassels and embroidered mirrors on the ceiling that shine like stars.”

Tables were piled high with a bountiful mix of Persian and Russian food displays.
The delicacies on the menu were inspired by the cuisines of both Persia and Russia.
The first course was a “Russian trio” of smoked sturgeon with capers and toast points, a pickled beet and goat cheese Napoleon, and “Herring Under Fur Coat” layered salad, served with 2007 Bouchaine Chardonnay and 2009 Bouchaine Pinot Noir.
Left, front to back: Alan and Anoosheh Oskouian, Nikta Shokooh, Vida and Paul Vazin. Right, front to back: Farrokh Shokooh, Ali Razi, Farah Jazayeri, Shahla and Mehdi Hemmat. 
Left, front to back: Steven Stull, Jean-Charles Boisset, Claire Stull, Gerret Copeland, Maria and Evgeny Shustorovich, Darioush Khaledi (head of table). Right, front to back: Sonia Tolbert, Steven Rivera, Tatiana Copeland, Alexander Shustorovich, Irina Yartseva, Dario Sattui.
John and Lisa Grotts said the evening could be described only as “stunning!” 
DANCERS
Persiandancers performed in their native costume.
Next, Russian performers twirled in a traditional dance.
Getting into the spirit of the evening, Darioush Khaledi demonstrated some native dance steps with a Charlie Chaplin impersonator.
Darioush’s friends got a kick out of his antics.
Hosts Shahpar and Darioush Khaledi enjoyed sharing the spectacular evening and weekend with more than 40 friends who flew in from Los Angeles.
Karen Walker, Jean-Yves Thibaudet, and Sandra Jones.
Behrooz Ghavrami, Bita Milanian, Lida Ariani, Frank and Mrs. Naeymi-Rad, Hooshang and Eli Semnani, and Michael and Katy Saei.
The party continued long into the night.
BALLET GALA

The Dede Wilsey Dance Series brings top performers to the Festival del Sole.

They came from diverse backgrounds, including New York’s American Ballet Theatre, the San Francisco Ballet, and Ballet San Jose, and performed classic selections from Swan Lake, Giselle, Don Quixote, and more.
VINTNER’S LUNCHEON AT SILVER OAK

Though many times I’ve passed Silver Oak Cellars, off Oakville Crossing in the Oakville Appellation, I had never before actually visited the winery, so I looked forward to tasting its wines.
Midway between the Silverado Trail and the town of Oakville, Silver Oak Cellars was once a run-down dairy farm.
Silver Oak’s first vintages were aged in the dairy’s milk storage room, then pumped into a steel tank on a flatbed truck, and finally, the filled bottles were corked by hand.
Catherine Schmidt, Paul Weaver, and Elizabeth Thieriot sipped Silver Oaks wines on the patio, enjoying the sunshine and the view of the vineyards and mountains beyond.
Guests were welcomed with live classical music performed by an ensemble from Orchestra Institute Napa Valley.
A HEALTHY LUNCH

During lunch, Dr. Wendy Bazilian, author of The SuperFoodsRx Diet and presenter of the luncheon’s wellness conversation, explained the benefits of the traditional Mediterranean diet, considered the healthiest in the world.
The meal featured a healthy Mediterranean menu designed by Chef Dominic Orsini and Dr. Bazilian, based on the seasonal produce they were able to gather in the garden.
We dined at long wooden tables decorated with a profusion of sunflowers and positioned so we could look out onto the garden.
“Napa Valley lives and breathes wellness,” Dr. Bazilian said. She noted that  “modern scientific research is proving what Mother Nature knows already: the single best investment in health is choosing to eat well.”
The meal began with a summer salad of shell beans, arugula, and winery-cured prosciutto served with Twomey Pinot Noir, Russian River 2011.
Second course was new potatoes, zucchini, and mushrooms paired with Silver Oak Alexander Valley 2009.
The entrée consisted of wild sockeye salmon with baba ghanoush and cherry tomatoes, accompanied by Silver Oak Napa Valley 2008.
Dessert was a healthful selection of fruits, cheeses, nuts and olives.
THE WINE
Silver Oak specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in-barrel for 24 months and in-bottle for 20 months.Silver Oak CEO David Duncan explained that the vineyard ages its wines to be food-friendly and drinkable on release, so oenophiles can enjoy them immediately.
Elizabeth Thieriot and Dr. Jason Bazilian.
Dr. Wendy Bazilian, who led the day’s wellness conversation, with Maria Manetti Shrem.
OPERA GALA AT LINCOLN THEATER

The Festival del Sole’s extraordinary 2013 season ended on a brilliant note with a final evening of operatic areas performed by Kelly O’Connor and Raymond Aceto, accompanied by the Russian National Orchestra.

The program included works by Tchaikovsky, Dvorak, Bizet, Mozart, and Verdi. “The tenor was unbelievable and the Samson and Delilah was a favorite,” said board member Athena Blackburn.“He looked great and she was gorgeous and so expressive.”

As we left the theater, I noticed glasses of vodka were awaiting the RNO performers. Is that a Russian tradition?
Pianist Vadym Kholodenko, in his first concerto performance since winning this year’s Van Cliburn Competition, opened the evening.
Carlo Montanaro once again conducted the RNO at the Napa Valley Performing Arts Center at Lincoln Theater.
The concert was underwritten by Clos Pegase Winery founder Jan Shrem and his wife Maria Manetti Shrem as part of the  “Vocal Arts Series,” which brings more vocal performers to the Festival.
Raymond Aceto.
Kelly O’Connor.
CLOSING NIGHT DINNER AT SINEGAL FAMILY ESTATE

After the Opera Gala, guests headed to the “last supper” hosted by David and Shelley Sinegal at the new Sinegal Family Estate winery. David, son of Costco co-founder and former CEO James Sinegal, recently purchased the original Inglewood Estate and then the Wolf Family Winery.
The 30-acre historic St. Helena estate features a stone winery, tasting room, seven acres of planted vineyards, guesthouse, pool, tennis court, olive orchard, gardens, and a 25-acre lake.As the sun set, guests made their way to the lawns of the main property, where they enjoyed a gourmet dinner paired with hand-selected wines from Sinegal winemaker Tony Biagi.
Hosts David and Shelley Sinegal.Gus and Martha Spanos.
Lisa and Brad Oberwager, Alyson and Brad Harrington, and Kimberly Miller.
Kimberly Miller and Michael Polenske.Rita and Antonio Castellucci.
Jeanne Lawrence, Charles Letourneau, Raymond Aceto, and Christine Bélanger.
Kate Watson and Eoin Harrington.Becky and Tommy Drake.
Vic and Sandra Motto, with Dorothy and Brad Jeffries.
Mary Gonsalves Kinney and Jason Kinney.Afsaneh Akhtari and Curtis Tischler.
Gerret Copeland, Kathryn Hall, Tatiana Copeland, Craig Hall, and Pepper Jackson.
Anabelle Walter and Rich Nybakken.George and Karen Peterson.
Charles Letourneau with actress Tamara Tunie, IMG’s Greg Calejo, and TV personality Star Jones.
DINNER

The young, attractive crowd was representative of the changing face of Napa Valley winemaking. It’s nice to know that interest in this lifestyle is alive and well in the new generation.
David Sinegal in front of the property’s Victorian home.
The 30-acre Sinegal Family Estate includes seven acres of vineyards, whose olive orchards and gardens seem lusher than other wineries’.
I felt as if I was in the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.
Maria Shustorovich, Margrit Mondavi, and Star Jones.
Alexander Shustorovich and Star Jones.
Tamara Tunie, Greg Calejo, and Jeanne Lawrence.
Kelly O’Connor and Rick Walker.
We dined in the garden amid oak trees, enjoying delicious food served on candlelit tables, with great conversation to animate the evening.
“The festival is unique,” said Italian guest conductor Carlo Montanaro. “The music is fantastic, the setting is great, the food and wine are spectacular. No event offers all the elements that make up the art of living quite like the Festival del Sole. The sponsors take care of everything, and we have only to dress and to arrive.” And enjoy—which isn’t hard.

We raised a toast to another spectacular season, promising we would return for Festival del Sole 2014 and again enjoy the Napa Valley hospitality.

Mark your calendars for July 11 – 20, 2014, for a visit to Napa Valley unlike any other. Patrons interested in buying tickets next year can find more information on the Festival’s website, http://festivaldelsole.org.
Photos by Jeanne Lawrence, Drew Altizer, and Moanalani Jeffrey.

*Urbanite Jeanne Lawrence reports on lifestyle and travel from her homes in San Francisco, Shanghai, and New York, and wherever else she finds a good story.

Washington Social Diary

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Toasts are a tradition among spies, apparently. The OSS Society dinner has many, as well as standing ovations.
BOO! All Kinds of Spooks In Washington
by Carol Joynt

Washington has been getting its spook on, and in more ways than one. Last weekend brought all kinds of pre-Halloween parties, if sidewalk encounters with ghouls, goblins and one-night-only S&M devotees were any indication. On Friday night, Georgetown’s Bill Dean hosted his annual Dodge Mansion Halloween extravaganza, with “Shutdown” as this year’s theme. Saturday night featured no costumes but genuine “spooks” at the annual gala of the spy and special ops crowd, also known as The OSS Society William J. Donovan Award Dinner.

Did the OSS plan their party for Halloween week on purpose? We don't know, but kudos for marvelous timing. No costumes were necessary for people who at one time or another lived their lives in deep cover. Carl Colby, son of a former CIA Director, the late William Colby, is a regular at the dinner. He jokes that no one gets too hung up on names because it's impossible to know if it's the person's real name.
William J. Donovan (in statue form) looks out over the annual dinner that honors him, also known as the "spy prom."
The dinner was interesting on a number of levels. There was the opportunity to hear Maria Riva talk about her mother, Marlene Dietrich, and her love of being an American citizen.

"The freedom of this country is never more apparent or more precious than when you flee and need her to house you," she said. There was the Director of the CIA, John O. Brennan, who praised his agency and claimed essentially that this era has delivered an espionage renaissance. "Seeing the people here reminds me why we are in this business," he said. "At no time previously in our history has there been a greater need for intelligence." 
"I give you my word I will maintain the great standards of excellence and professionalism that are represented in this room tonight," CIA director John O. Brennan told guests at the annual OSS Society dinner.
Fisher Howe, one birthday shy of 100, is a legend in the founding of the OSS and CIA. He made a martini toast to his mentor, William "Wild Bill" Donovan, embodied in the statue in the foreground. Army 1st Sgt Huber joins one of the evening's nine toasts. The details on his uniform tell you he's a paratrooper and special forces. A gin martini was served to every guest.
The first toast of the evening was to the United States, the last toast was to "the ladies."
And there was Navy Adm. William H. McRaven, the special ops master famous for the successful Osama bin Laden mission, who delivered remarks that had the fervor and language of a political stump speech. He was the night’s big star and the recipient of the Donovan Award.

Not that McRaven could scare anybody in that room, but his words had a fright quality: "Today we are fighting extremism of another type. An intolerance. A bigotry. A medieval mindset that doesn’t recognize any civility, and it is international and it is a threat to our global humanity. As a result, today the intelligence, law enforcement and defense communities stand as vanguards of our security, fighting this barbarism as far away from our shores as we can engage them."
The man of the evening: the head of U.S. Special Operations Command, Adm. William H. McRaven, also known for overseeing the mission to kill Osama bin Laden. He received the Donovan Award.Maj. Gen. John K. Singlaub, chairman of the OSS Society, introduced and presented the Donovan Award to Adm. William H. McRaven.
Maj. Gen. John K. Singlaub, USA (ret.), the one with all the gold braid, is joined by friends at the VIP reception before the OSS Society dinner. A decorated member of the OSS, he also helped found the CIA.
In the audience were some of the living legends of the Office of Strategic Services, now mostly in their 90s and one, Fisher Howe, who will turn 100 on his next birthday.

For the spy class, these are the treasures of the of what became the Central Intelligence Agency. It was all pomp — loads of toasts, one standing ovation after another — a dinner that began at 6 and ended just minutes before midnight, and that included an inferred slap at Edward Snowden, though he was not mentioned by name. Certainly not. It would have started a food fight. Nonetheless, John R. Basehart, who received the John Singlaub Award, said, the OSS were "quiet professionals who knew what the word quiet meant. Something we need more of today."
Phillip Greene, who wrote the book on making gin martinis the Ernest Hemingway way, "To Have and to Have Another," gives a brief and entertaining seminar on the Hemingway recipe, which includes frozen glasses and frozen onions.
Another highlight was Philip Greene, the author of “To Have and Have Another,” a definitive look at Ernest Hemingway and his cocktails, particularly the gin martini. Greene gave the traditional “Hemingway toast,” after a brief demo on how to make a martini Hemingway’s way. For one thing, freeze the onions. Every one of the few hundred guests in the room had a martini in hand — waiting for them at each place setting — which meant in the grandest possible way “martinis for the house.” 

With the real Halloween upon us tomorrow it has to be noted that Georgetown embraces this ghoulish occasion with increasing creativity. Homeowners go out of their way to decorate, some to such a realistic extent that I would imagine the little children get spooked to tears and nightmares. But, hey, as the OSS folks were reminded repeatedly, we live in a scary world and its probably best to get toughed up for it at a tender age.
The presentation of colors and the Pledge of Allegiance at the beginning of the OSS Society dinner.
Enjoy the photos I shot mostly in Georgetown— and one or two at Markoff’s “Haunted Forest” in Maryland — using a variety of fun Hipstamatic film stocks. 
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

Washington Social Diary

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Congress may loom over Washington, and deny the city a lot of rights, but a boom is happening regardless.
WITH ELECTION DAY IN MIND
by Carol Joynt

Politics are in the forefront in Washington as we approach tomorrow’s election day, and I’m not talking about Capitol Hill or the White House. It’s an “off year” election, but still there are some races. The residents of DC may not have meaningful representation in Congress, but we are wedged between two real states, Maryland and Virginia, where voters elect real senators and congressman and governors. I’m addressing our neighbors first, but let me make one thing perfectly clear up top: even with the Constitutional constraints on us, DC is the city to watch. DC is the place that’s transformative.

Virginia will elect a new governor tomorrow. The candidates are, for the Democratic Party, Terry McAuliffe, the slick former chairman of the Democratic National Committee and Clinton (both of them) fundraiser and operative; for the Republican Party, it’s Ken Cuccinelli, who is backed by the Tea Party; and Libertarian candidate Robert Sarvis. Local TV has been jammed with ads for Cuccinelli and McAuliffe. On Sunday, McAuliffe’s lead over Cuccinelli had slimmed. Politico late last week called it a “nail biter.”
Terry McAuliffe, who has a slim lead in the Virginia governor's race. (Photo, AP)
Tea Party candidate Ken Cuccinelli is the Republican candidate for Governor of Virginia.
What’s interesting about this particular race is that Virginia voters apparently don’t like either candidate very much. Whether the winner is McAuliffe or Cuccinelli (Sarvis is a long, long shot) he will go into the job on the heels of a favorability rating in the low 30s. A spokesman for the Quinnipiac University poll said, “the campaign has been light on issues and big on personalities.”

That’s no baloney, either. Both men have brought out the stars of their parties — President Obama and Bill and Hillary Clinton for McAuliffe, and Sen. Marco Rubio and former Rep. Ron Paul for Cuccinelli. Vice President Biden is expected to stump for McAuliffe today.
The Potomac shores of Virginia, where voters will elect a new governor on Tuesday. This is Arlington House, the former home of Robert E. Lee, which is in Arlington National Cemetery.
This is along route 1 near Alexandria, Virginia, only a short hop from Reagan National Airport, but it could be anywhere in the DC metro area.
Maryland and DC don’t have major elections this week, but both are on deck for the mid-terms in one year, when Maryland will elect a new governor and DC will have a mayoral election. Democrats usually win in Maryland. The party’s top contenders are Lt. Gov. Anthony Brown and Attorney General Douglas Gansler. The primary is way off, and in the meantime the race has been entertaining, though possibly too much so for Gansler’s taste. He’s been in the news for showing up at a teen beach party where underage drinking allegedly occurred.

Gansler’s spokesman, Bob Wheelock (who comes to the campaign from top jobs with Al Jazeera America and ABC News), said it was “time to move on,” and that Gansler was at the party “looking for his son.” There was an earlier dust up over allegations Gansler asked state troopers officially assigned as his drivers to inappropriately use speed, lights and sirens to get him to destinations. His campaign said, “at no time did the Attorney General ever issue any orders to any member of the Maryland State Police.”

What this means is the race in Maryland should be fun to watch.
Candidate for Maryland governor, Doug Gansler.
Anthony Brown in a photo on the Maryland state government website.
But most engaging to watch is the DC mayor’s race. The incumbent, Vincent Gray, can run again, but has been dragging his feet on making an announcement whether he will or won’t. What hangs over him is an investigation by the office of U.S. Attorney Ronald Machen into a so-called $650,000 “shadow campaign” that existed in Gray’s last campaign.

Machen has brought no charges against Gray and whether he will is a looming and compelling mystery. There are all kinds of colorful political characters involved in the scandal, charges and counter charges, guilty pleas, Machen himself, who the media call a “crusading” federal prosecutor, and Mayor Gray, who basically says zero on the subject, and likely doesn’t have to until the primary filing deadline next year. He says if he does seek re-election it will be on his record, which — take away the campaign fraud scandal — is a good one. People appear to like him.
Mayor Vincent Gray, appearing for an interview on The Q&A Cafe, shortly after he was elected mayor in 2010.
The Washington Post, though, is fed up with his stance on the scandal. In an editorial yesterday the paper slammed him for evasiveness on answering questions about what happened in his last campaign. The editorial board said he has “failed” to offer “detailed or convincing responses” and that he doesn’t seem to think he needs to, which the paper termed “insulting to DC voters.”

The field of mayoral candidates is jockeying like a group of sail boats waiting for the starting gun, and waiting for Gray. They include city council members Muriel Bowser, Jack Evans and Tommy Wells, four others who have filed to run and a few others who say they may run. Evans and Wells are white. National Journal recently declared that “Evans has a shot” at winning, and they aren’t alone in that speculation.
DC city council member Jack Evans as he announces his candidacy for mayor in June of this year. He chose the heart of the revitalized 14th Street corridor -- once ravaged by riots -- as the location to make his announcement.
The deadline for who’s in or out of the Democratic primary (which always decides DC’s mayor) is in two months, the primary comes in the spring. If Gray doesn’t run, the other candidates will become turbo-charged. If he does run, we may have a horse race. A mutual friend recently phoned me to share that Gray had told him, “I’m running.” I took it to Mayor Gray and he said the conversation didn’t happen.

What’s most interesting about the DC mayor’s race is the backdrop. The nation’s capital is becoming whiter and richer. Whether this is for the best is an ongoing debate, but no one disputes a visible transformation. It’s ironic, really, that during the recent Great Recession, in which so many across the country have suffered, Washington has not experienced similar strife. In fact, signs of revitalization are everywhere; the horizon is dotted with sky-high cranes. It’s as if it’s Charlotte or Brooklyn or Austin, or maybe a mash-up of all three.  For better or worse, developers have a shot at becoming rock stars.
There's a reason why political campaigns are compared to a horse race. This is Laurel Race Course in Maryland on Saturday, Nov. 2, only a few days before the off-year elections.
The Washington NFL team may not be having the best season, and the team name controversy won't go away, but the fact is with football, baseball, basketball and hockey, Washington is becoming a sports town.
DC thrives in the department of culture. This is the Kennedy Center on the evening of the annual Symphony Ball.
Surveys show that Washington is becoming whiter and richer. It's also attractive to young people and the well-educated.
Winter ice skating at the Georgetown Waterfront Park. It's not the only ice rink to open in DC.
What’s new is that big business is moving here; the growth in the restaurant and entertainment industries is robust; there’s a strong residential population who have put down roots; there’s a hipness factor that’s created a new kind of gentrification. The latest figures show that 1,000 people a month move to the city.

Some of them are young, setting up with their first jobs; some are suburbanites, both empty-nesters and start-up families, in search of an urban neighborhood aesthetic and some energy. Most are well-educated and affluent. And this has almost nothing to do with Congress or the White House. DC’s boom is its own, and its what helped to keep it strong — and its workers working — during the federal shutdown.
A prime example of development in DC, this old federal facility, the West Heating Plant in Georgetown, has been bought by developers with the plan of redoing it as a Four Seasons Residences as well as a park.
This is the old Washington Coliseum in the revitalized NoMa neighborhood. Now a parking lot, it's where the Beatles gave their first U.S. concert in 1964. Next year work begins to renovate it as a "mixed use" retail and office development.
Yards Park is a gem of Washington's development boom and includes the Washington Nationals stadium in the distance. All kinds of office and apartment buildings have been planted around this area, which is on the banks of the Anacostia River.
Washington is a beautiful city, mixing the old and new. These are buildings along Massachusetts Avenue in the Embassy Row neighborhood.
I’ve lived here long enough to claim expertise on the subject of the dramatic change in Washington. I voted in the first election for a DC representative in the House (who has no vote, though), and in our first mayoral election, both back in the early 1970s. I lived here in the early '90s when it was the “murder capital” and when the city’s mayor, Marion Barry, was arrested for smoking crack, got convicted, served time, got released and was again elected mayor (btw, he’s still on the city council). I’ve watched this city roller coaster up and down and all around. But it’s in a new place now, more solid in its focus on the future and in a way that’s not been before.

Providing the kind of trend marker he’s good at doing, well-known and outspoken political commentator and blogger Andrew Sullivan announced last week that after living in New York City for a year he was homesick for Washington. He’s moving back. He said he loved New York “until I tried living here.” His reasons for returning to DC all speak to my point: “I miss the relative calm; I miss the green; I miss the increasing vibrancy of the city. I miss the oases of quiet and the energy of a new emerging city that is both a second Brooklyn and a global hub of media and politics.”
Farmers markets abound in neighborhoods all over Washington, including downtown and the Federal Triangle, and most days of the week. This is the Sunday farmers market in the Palisades.
Washington is green. There's lots of access to the outdoors, a fact celebrated by many restaurants. This is Leopold's in Georgetown.
Sullivan’s point of view, which is shared by many, and the forecast for the future, make the DC mayoral election perhaps its most critical since the city elected its first mayor, Walter Washington, in 1974. If the voters elect a white candidate, it will be historic.

NOTE: If you will be in Washington on Wednesday, when we tape The Q&A Café at the Ritz Carlton Georgetown, the whole show will be politics — the races tomorrow and next year. To join the audience, find information here.
Autumn leaves mean election time.
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

WALKING, TALKING AND EATING IN LONDON

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WALKING, TALKING AND EATING IN LONDON
by Tracey Jackson

For the last two days I have pretty much walked a lot, talked a lot and eaten a lot. Glenn is working all day every day, so I am on my own. Considering I lived alone between 17 and 30, and travelled mostly alone until I met Glenn, this is not a problem for me. And truth is, I do have quite a lot of friends here.

By the time I finished Monday's blog I had half an hour to get ready for lunch. I was meeting my old friend, (we go back to our twenties) Manfredi della Gherardesca. I was to meet him at his club, 5 Hertford Street. In a city where clubs still reign supreme, in fact I can't think of a city in the world that is still as club-centric as London, 5 Hertford is the club of the moment. It is so hot that when you Google it the same set of drawings and few publicity shots show up. Nobody goes in there and takes photos. You just don't. There is a Kate Moss series, but find a hip spot in London that does not have some photos of Kate Moss slipping in and slipping out.

It's so private there is very little written about (there is a slide show on VanityFair.com). And few bloggers and newspapers have written it up.
5 Hertford Street.
I found this on a site called Glitter and Mud.

Today it is the favourite bolthole of London's biggest celebrity names and, it has come to light, Hollywood's too. In a success story all the more amazing for having happened more or less under the radar, Loulou's (and 5 Hertford Street, the private member's club of which it is a part) has become one of those rare places where royals, tycoons and movie stars come to let their guard down and party.

It does not have a sign and is not exactly where you will think it will be. So still being a bit jet lagged I found myself wandering around the wrong part of Hertford Street and had to call Manfredi's assistant and then Manfredi to find my way.
The foyer to 5 Hertford Street.
The bar of 5 Hertford Street.
The Drawing Room where we had a drink.
Manfredi sitting on the sofa. But you can't really tell where you are. Right? Manfredi actually is titled as he is a Count.
I got this photo of flowers in the ladies room. Pretty stealthy — huh?
We had a great lunch and caught up having not seen each other in about ten years.
We hit the streets and walked a bit. Manfredi seems to know every other person in London. But he is that way in NY as well.
He had to go back to work — Manfredi is an art advisor and has recently started doing design as well. I had tickets to go see The Daumier show at the Royal Academy. So he walked me as far as The Royal Academy before taking off for his office on St. James.
The Royal Academy.
Sir Joshua Reynolds in the courtyard of the Royal Academy.This was my favorite piece in the show. But I think it was everyone else's too, as it they put it on the notebook they were selling.
I am a creature of habit and I have set walks and things I do in certain places. I left Manfredi at almost three, spent 45 minutes at the Daumier show and then headed down Picadilly as I was meeting Glenn on Bond Street at five. I stopped at my one of my favorite bookstores in the world, Hatchards.
Hatchards Books. I always find Indian fiction I never see in the States and great travel books here.
I only picked up two books as I hate to carry them. I got Glenn a copy of Geordie Greig's new book on Lucien Freud. And I got a book by a new Indian writer. I then headed down Piccadilly to Boots. I always stop at Boots.
I also always walk by The Ritz. I don't think I have been inside in years.
Fortnum & Mason is already for XMAS. In fact all the big shops are.
Fortnum & Mason is not one of my stops ... though not for long. I breeze through the downstairs. I like it because it doesn't change. It is a time warp.
Guess you can't start too early. At least in the states we wait until around Thanksgiving.By the time I got to Bond Street it was almost dark. I did make several stops. But a girl has to keep a few secrets.
That evening we went to a wonderful Japanese restaurant called DININGS with our friends Selina and Paul Burdell. But I am saving all food for one blog when I get home.

The next day was another lunch and walk day.
I went and took a photo of Harrods Christmas tress without actually having to go into Harrods.
I did a double-hitter Top Shop day. Because the pound is so unfriendly towards the dollar I only buy things here that either I can't get in the States or that are much less expensive. I know they have a Top Shop in New York, but I have never been. For me it only exists here. There is a little one across from Harrods. You can see my photo of that on my Instagram page. In case you don't feel like looking, here it is ...
I spent a hunk of the morning there and then went to Balthazar to meet my friend and my WME English agent Elizabeth Byng for lunch.
Elizabeth Byng.
After lunch I was near Oxford Street and that involves another walk I always do. When I I worked here the offices were on Oxford Street so it was a walk I made every day.
This amused me — it is the Google building here. They are everywhere.
Oxford Street had these white balls hanging above it.
How often do you see big stacks of newspapers anymore?
One of my favorite intersections, Oxford Circus and Regent Street.
The real Top Shop. I disappeared into here for over an hour.
When I came out the sky was turning that lovely English blue/gray.
I know I'm not alone when I say this is one of my favorite bits of London. Not that there is anything there I do ... I just like seeing it as I turn the corner.
By the time I made it to here, it was dark.
And Harrods was all twinkly.
Photographs by Tracey Jackson.

Visit Tracey at TRACEY TALKS

Washington Social Diary

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Jackie and JFK outside Holy Trinity Church in 1962.
THE JFK 50TH, PART 1: A WALKING TOUR OF KENNEDYTOWN
by Carol Joynt

These next two weeks, as we mark the 50th anniversary of the assassination of President John F. Kennedy, we will be transported back in memories and history to the catastrophic moment when he was murdered in Dallas. It’s a vivid memory for those who were alive when it happened (and I will write about that next week). For younger generations, it is history. Either way there are ample opportunities to become immersed in what it was like — JFK’s presidency, the aura of “Camelot,” the killing and the funeral — with TV specials, films, books, magazine and newspaper features and blogs.

Top: 3307 N. The Kennedys did famous TV interviews from the this home and departed from it in a heavy snow for the pre-inaugural gala and the inauguration.

Above: Jackie and JFK, heading out the front door at 3307 N Street.
Washington, of course, offers unique opportunities, and in particular Georgetown, where Jack Kennedy lived as a bachelor and where he and Jacqueline Bouvier lived as newlyweds, a beguiling and ambitious political couple on the rise, and where they and their friends partied during the White House years. The Kennedy presence is so deeply hardwired into Georgetown that the small, charming and elegant neighborhood could be known as Kennedytown. Point me in any direction and I’ll share with you a piece of Kennedy lore.

Which is why I’ve created a small walking tour of the village. Jack and Jackie, their families and friends, colleagues and wannabes, were authentic denizens. They lived in the houses, walked the sidewalks, shopped in the stores, ate at the restaurants, drank in the pubs and helped burnish an enduring and romantic legacy.  While most of the commercial elements of the Kennedy era are long gone, with the exception of one or two, the houses remain. The residential part of Georgetown looks pretty much the same as it did in the early 1960s. This walk will take you back in time.

I start and end with two iconic Georgetown pubs, because they perfectly open and close the experience. The Tombs (http://www.tombs.com) and Martins Tavern (http://www.martins-tavern.com), both open every day of the week for morning into evening eating and drinking, which allows for the option of taking this tour after dark.  The Tombs is in the so-called “west” village and on the edge of the Georgetown University campus. Richard McCooey opened this cozy, clubby basement bar when JFK was president. He also created the more formal upstairs 1789, which serves only dinner.

Martin's Tavern has a direct connection to the Kennedys. JFK liked to come here solo for breakfast (a meal they still serve daily), and on dates with Jackie, and the legend is he proposed to her in booth #3.

For the purpose of having to start somewhere, I start this walk at The Tombs and end at Martin’s, but it would be easy to do the same walk in reverse. It covers both sides of the village — east and west — goes up and down hills and would probably take about an hour.

• The Tombs. 1226 36th Street. Phone: 202.337.6668. Sit at the square bar or slide into a booth. Have a beer or a martini and a very good hamburger, which will fortify you for the walk ahead.
The Tombs opened when the Kennedys were in the White House. It is a basement pub and quintessential Georgetown.In the same building as The Tombs, but upstairs, is 1789, also opened when JFK was in the White House. It serves only dinner but is a good place to feel immersed in "Camelot."
• Holy Trinity Church. This is a block up from 1789 on 36th Street. It is the oldest Catholic Church in continuous operation in Washington. The chapel was built in 1794. President Kennedy worshipped here regularly as did his wife and their extended families.
Within view of The Tombs and 1789 is Holy Trinity Church, the favored place of worship for the Kennedy clan and other notable Washingtonians who are Catholic.
This memorial plaque is prominently displayed at the front of Holy Trinity.
• Head east to 35th Street and walk up to Dent Place. Turn right and walk a block or so over to 3321 Dent. JFK and Jackie lived here for six months in 1954.
Newlywed Sen. and Mrs. John F. Kennedy lived at 3321 Dent Place. It's a quiet street in the upper reaches of the village. There's a fire station across from the house.
Pretty 34th Street between Dent and O. This is the view walking south, headed toward 1400 34th Street.
• Turn south down 34th Street and walk the few blocks to O. JFK and his sister, Eunice, lived at 1400 34th Street  in the late '50s, before either was married. (Note: across the street at 1405 is the former home of Amb. David K.E. Bruce and his wife, Evangeline. It is now owned by Under Armour founder Kevin Plank.)
At 1400 34th Street is a house JFK shared with his sister, Eunice Kennedy. It was in the late 1940s before he married Jacqueline and she married Sargent Shriver. Across the street is a stately residence that once belonged to Amb. David K.E. Bruce and his wife, Evangeline, a noted hostess of the Camelot era. It's now home to Under Armour founder Kevin Plank and his wife.
• From O Street walk down to N and turn left. 3307 N is where Jack and Jackie lived when he was elected president. There are many images — photos and video — of them in this house. An famous shot is of them in formal wear, heading out in a snowstorm to his pre-inaugural gala.
A block over from 1400 34th is the intersection 33rd and N Streets. The house at 3307 N is where JFK and Jackie lived when he was elected president.
• From 3307 N walk to the east to Potomac Street. Turn left, walk up Potomac to O, turn right toward Wisconsin and then across and up to P Street. Turn right on P and walk to 31st. At the corner of 31st and P, turn left and walk up to 1528 31st.  This was JFK’s bachelor pad as a young congressman in 1947-48.
From N, walk up Potomac Street to O and turn right and head toward P Street. Take it across Wisconsin Avenue to 31st and turn left.
• Turn, walk back down to P Street, and go left, toward the east. Along the way you will pass 3028 P Street. It’s not a Kennedy home but is strongly connected to Camelot. It was home to Dorcas Hardin, a designer (grand dame and hostess) who owned Washington’s most fashionable clothing boutique, which was in Georgetown. Jackie shopped there as did her friends. It was open into the late '70s. Hardin died in 2006.
At 1528 31st Street is where John Kennedy for a time while he was a new senator.The house at 2808 P Street is where the Kennedys lived as he built his presidential campaign. They moved here in 1957, after publication of Profiles in Courage. On your way there, be sure to stop in front of 3028 P, which was home to Dorcas Hardin, a fixture of the Camelot era.
• Continue on P Street to 2808. We wrote about this house earlier (NYSD 5.30.13), upon the release of a vintage video of Jackie that was shot here and around the neighborhood.
• At the corner of 28th and P stop into Stachowski’s market, now a popular butcher shop but also a market when the Kennedy’s lived nearby.
Half a block from the Kennedys P Street home was their local market, now Stachowski's, a popular butcher shop.
• Head down 28th and at Dumbarton look for 2720 Dumbarton. This was the home of columnist Joe Alsop, a social force of the Kennedy era. Famously, JFK showed up there to continue the party in the wee hours after his inauguration. It has been called his “safe house.” Legend has it he liked to pop over for other social occasions — and liaisons — and to take a dip in Alsop’s pool. I’ve been in the house (in fact, with DPC and JH) and wished the walls could talk.
2720 Dumbarto is not a typical Georgetown house but it has some of the richest Kennedy history. It was home to writer Joseph Alsop. It's where Kennedy partied and allegedly cavorted into the wee hours after his inauguration and on other occasions. It was the "safe house" of Camelot.
• Walk down to N Street and turn right, heading west, and go to 3017 N, a beautiful mansion shrouded by ancient magnolias. This was Jackie Kennedy’s last Washington home. But she didn’t stay long. The memories, and the tourists outside her door, prompted her to pack up and move to New York. Briefly her stepsister Nina and husband Michael Straight lived there before it was sold to Yolande Bebeze Fox, who still lives there. History buffs will be pleased to know that on the inside it is still architecturally as it was when Jackie lived there with Caroline and John-John. In fact, some of John-John’s toys are still in the basement.
3017 N was the home Jackie Kennedy bought after the assassination, but she lived there only a brief time before moving to New York and making her new home on Park Avenue.
Jackie, her sister Lee Radziwill, decorator Billy Baldwin and a Secret Service agent leave 3017 N Street. To this day the bolts of fabric Baldwin planned to use for decorating the house remain stored in the basement.
The steps of Jackie Kennedys home at 3017 N Street. Directly across the street is the home of Washington Post legend Ben Bradlee and his wife, Sally Quinn. As you pass Jackie's house and go west you will head toward the Harriman House at 3038.
(Note: across the street at 3014 is the former home of Robert Todd Lincoln, President Lincoln’s son. For years it has been the home of Ben Bradlee and Sally Quinn.)
The Bradlee home on N Street, across from 3017. It is the historic former home of Robert Todd Lincoln, son of President Abraham Lincoln.
• Continue to the west just a few doors. Stop at 3038 N Street. At the time of the assassination this was where W. Averell Harriman lived with his wife, Marie. They moved out and loaned the home to Jackie as a temporary residence, while she figured out what to do next after leaving the White House. She resided here until she bought the house at 3017. (Note: In 1971, after Marie died, Harriman married Pamela Digby Churchill Hayward, who was a new widow. Harriman died in 1986. Pamela was named Ambassador to France by President Clinton in 1993. She died in Paris in 1997. The house was sold and much of the decor is still as it was when she lived there.)
Statesmen W. Averell Harriman and his wife, Marie, loaned their home at 3038 N to Jackie as a temporary residence after the assassination. It's where she lived until she bought 3017 N. Later, Harriman lived here with his third wife, Pamela. It was her home until her death in Paris in 1997.
Ethel and Robert Kennedy after a visit with Jackie at 3038 N Street.
Jackie and Caroline arrive at 3038 N Street.
• Last stop. Martin’s Tavern. From 3038 N it is just a block to the west, at the corner of Wisconsin and N. As you walk there consider the times, after the assassination, that Jackie walked along N Street to have quiet dinners with friends at Martin’s. It had to be rough, but possibly also sweetly sentimental, with the memories she had of being a young couple there and knowing it was one of her husband’s favorite places. Today, as in the '50s and '60s, it is a bustling hub of the neighborhood, attracting all generations. You could sit in booth #3, or ask for the little booth for one person — or maximum two — where JFK liked to sit alone and read the paper. The address is 1264 Wisconsin Avenue. Phone: 202-333-7370.
The walking tour almost complete, you continue West on N Street to the intersection of N and Wisconsin Avenue and cross over to Martin's Tavern.
Martin's is a must on a tour of the Kennedy's Georgetown.
Martin's is not shy about sharing the legend that JFK proposed to Jackie in booth "3" at Martin's Tavern, one of their favorite hangouts. It remains beloved by Georgetowners.
Inside Martin's on a busy Saturday afternoon. To the right is a single booth, with barely room for two people, where JFK liked to sit alone to have breakfast and read the paper.
Martin's Tavern booth "3," in the background here, is popular with locals and visitors.
Sitting outside for brunch on a pleasant November Saturday afternoon. As it was in the Kennedy era, Martin's Tavern continues to be popular, especially with young people.
Recommended reading before or after the tour or while sitting at The Tombs or Martins: Angel is Airborne by my colleague Garrett M. Graff, editor of Washingtonian magazine.

Next week: Part Two, Paying Respects at the Rotunda
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

San Francisco Social Diary

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The copper-clad de Young Museum building, designed by renowned Swiss architects Herzog and de Meuron, is located in Golden Gate Park amid 1,000 acres of parkland.
by Jeanne Lawrence

The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950–1990, at the de Young Museum

San Francisco—The de Young Museum launched The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990 with a glamorous opening night party this fall. Featuring approximately 150 of the renowned Italian jewelry house’s creations, the exhibition will continue until February 17, 2014.

At the exclusive gala for only 280, the dinner guests went all out, with the fashionistas wearing beautiful evening gowns accented with their best Bulgari baubles. Flying in for the occasion was Bulgari VP Nicola Bulgari and his daughter Veronica, and CEO Jean-Christophe Babin.
Jewelry, sketches, and archival materials are all on view at The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950-1990.
A STAR-STUDDED EVENING

Opening night celebrities included actresses Hilary Swank and Kate Bosworth, fashionistas China Chow and Jacqui Getty, and prominent members of the city’s Italian community, such as Counsel General Mauro Battocchi, Maria Manetti Shrem, and Daniela Faggioli, joined by trustees of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco (FAM), which includes the de Young and the Legion of Honor.
The spectacular evening was co-hosted by newly appointed FAM Director Colin Bailey and FAM Board President Dede Wilsey, pictured here with Nicola Bulgari.FAM Director Colin Bailey with actress Hillary Swank. Bailey, previously at New York’s Frick Museum, became director in June 2013 as successor to Director John Buchanan, who passed away in 2011.
Jacqui Getty and Tatiana Sorokko, wearing her favorite designer, Ralph Rucci.Nicola Bulgari, Catarina Riccardi, and Martin Chapman, FAM curator who collaborated on the show with Bulgari Heritage Collection curator Amanda Triossi.
Filmmaker Michael Polish and his wife, actress Kate Bosworth.Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin and China Chow.
Romana and John Bracco, Daniela Faggioli, Asher Berry, and Italian Consul General Mauro Battocchi.
BULGARI HISTORY & DISTINCTIVE STYLE

The exhibition is inspired by a 2010 retrospective in Paris, timed to the 125th anniversary of the House of Bulgari. The firm was founded in Rome in 1884 by the Greek-born silversmith Sotirios Boulgaris, who later changed his name to the more Italian-sounding Bulgari.
The Bulgari store at 28 via dei Condotti, Rome, ca. 1900.
The current Bulgari store, at 10 via dei Condotti, Rome, reflects the same elegance.
During the post-war boom in Italy, Bulgari became a fashion leader when they created some of the most innovative jewelry designs in the world.

This is the first U.S. retrospective for the jewelry house, now owned by the French luxury conglomerate LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). (What don’t they own?).
The exhibition highlights the opulent jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, the decades of the 1950s through the 1980s.
Known for boldly colored combinations of semiprecious stones and diamonds, a profusion of multicolored cabochon (rounded rather than faceted) gemstones, and heavy gold, Bulgari’s forms are inspired by Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths.

Keeping up with the times, Bulgari’s newly appointed face is Carla Bruni, the former first lady of France, who’ll be modeling Bulgari’s new Diva collection, inspired by Elizabeth Taylor’s jewelry.
Once owned by Lyn Revson, wife of Revlon founder Charles Revson, this Bulgari yellow gold bib necklace from 1965 is set with 37 cabochon emeralds, 27 cabochon amethysts, 84 turquoises, and 937 brilliant-cut diamonds.
This 1974 “Tubogas” choker set with Greek silver coins on heavy gold chains is emblematic of Bulgari’s structured chokers.
The jewelry house’s signature rounded cabochon gems and vibrant use of color were also reflected in their “melone” oval evening bags, this one from the collection of Lyn Revson.
CELEBRITIES IN BULGARI

During the ’50s and ’60s, when Rome was one of the movie capitals of the world, Bulgari made news with distinctive designs for movie stars such as Sophia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida, and Elizabeth Taylor.

The brand’s bold and innovative style remained popular among celebrities and the jet set in the decades to come.
Legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland, in her snake belt worn as a choker, 1980.Princess Grace of Monaco, wearing a Bulgari gold coin-set necklace in Monte Carlo, 1978.
Sophia Loren in a Bulgari set of cabochon sapphires and rubies highlighted with diamonds, 1960.
Marisa Berenson in a variety of Bulgari rings and gold chain necklaces, 1969.
ELIZABETH TAYLOR’S COLLECTION

Taylor reportedly said that as you age, you need bigger and bigger jewels to replace the sparkle of youth (and, no doubt important to her, to keep yourself in the spotlight). If you saw the Elizabeth Taylor sale last year at Christie’s auction house, you would have noticed her huge collection of pieces by Bulgari.
During cocktail hour, guests wandered the galleries to view the four-decade retrospective of Bulgari’s irresistible designs.
Elizabeth Taylor wearing a Bulgari snake bracelet-watch on the set of Cleopatra, where she first met Welsh co-star Richard Burton, who she later married, divorced, and remarried.
Before the opening night dinner at the de Young, guests could ogle Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald suite, now part of the Bulgari Heritage Collection.Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald Grand Duchess Vladimir Suite, a gift from Richard Burton, which she wore in their 1964 wedding.
This diamond and platinum sautoir (a French term for a long necklace that suspends an ornament), set with a 52-carat Burmese sapphire, once belonged to  Elizabeth Taylor.The exhibit also included pieces from the private collections of prominent locals, including Dede Wilsey and Denise Hale.
DINNER UNDER TWINKLING “STARLIGHT”

Inspired by the jewelry house’s preference for mirrored rectangular tables when entertaining, Los Angeles decorator Ben Bourgeois filled the dinner tent with long rows of mirrored tables that appeared to be floating.
The tent’s lighting was brilliant: From the twinkling starry ceiling lit with tiny fiber optic lights, to the romantic candles and table settings, guests were bathed in flattering lighting.
The elegant floral table arrangements reflected the colors of the fall season.
Guests feasted on a four-course dinner prepared by the chefs of McCall Catering & Events, which started with aragosta (lobster) and gnocchi.
Second course was a roasted fig and citrus salad.
Following the main course of olive caponata crusted sea bass, guests were treated to a dessert of berries and sorbet.
The evening was lively and flawless in every way.
THE TOASTS
Nicola Bulgari said, “I’ve been coming to San Francisco to show jewelry for 51 years, so having our first retrospective here is very moving. I’ve attended many events like this, but haven’t ever experienced this kind of elegance.”Dede Wilsey mentioned that she’d known Nicola for over thirty years (inspiring competitive guests to calculate how long they had known him).
Newly appointed FAM Director Colin Bailey gave a speech while surrounded by performers from the String Theory musical ensemble.
GUESTS
Kate Bosworth, Nicola Bulgari, and Hilary Swank.
Alberto Festa, SF Bulgari boutique director Daniel Diaz, and Barbara Brookins-Schneider, wearing a Bulgari necklace.Ken Fulk with Yurie and Carl Pascarella, big supporters of the evening.
Timothy Morzenti, Giampaolo della Croce, Karen Sutherland, and Benefactor Circle member Dr. Alan Malouf.
FAM trustee Kathryn Lasater and her husband Bo Lasater.Henry Gardiner and Benefactor’s Circle member Denise Fitch.
Patricia Ferrin Loucks, Ivan Bekichev, and Elizabeth Fullerton.Maggie Rizer Mehran and her husband Alex Mehran.
Billy Getty with de Young board member Vanessa Getty, wearing Bulgari’s gold and diamond flexible serpent necklace from the Serpenti collection.Barbara Brown, Daniel Diaz, and Jill Choze.
Belva Davis and William Moore.Nicola Bulgari, Maria Manetti Shrem, sporting her Bulgari jewels, and Jan Shrem.
John and Lisa Grotts.Norah and Norman Stone.
Phil Pemberton and Deepa Pakianathan.Ann and Bob Fisher.
Joy Venturini Bianchi, Ben Bourgeois, Elizabeth Funk, and John Bradfield.
Carson and Suzanne Levit.Paul Pelosi and Jeanne Lawrence.
Mary Beth Shimmon, James Krohn, and Stephanie Ejabat.Joel Goodrich and Lisa Sardegna.
Lonna Wais, Robert Girard, and Phoebe Cowles.Owsley and Victoire Brown with Shelby Bonnie.
Elizabeth Varnell, Kate Harbin Clammer, and Evie Simon.
Pam and Dick Kramlich with Veronica Bulgari.Doug and Lisa Goldman with Paul Pelosi.
Flying in from LA were Susan Casten and Christine Suppes.Deborah Minor, Jenna Hunt, and Allison Speer.
Gregory and Charlot Malin with Dolly and George Chammas.
Evie Simon, Lisa Podos, and Kate Harbin Clammer.Suzy Kellems Dominik and Stephanie Ejabat.
Christian de Guigne and his daughter, Alyson.FAM Trustees Trevor and Alexis Traina.
Photos by Jeanne Lawrence, Drew Altizer, Bulgari Historical Archive, Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte, Ron Galella, Jack Nisberg, Archivi Farabola, Gian Paolo Barbieri, and Umberto Salvemini.

*Urbanite Jeanne Lawrence reports on lifestyle and travel from her homes in San Francisco, Shanghai, and New York, and wherever else she finds a good story.

Washington Social Diary

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Jackie and Caroline at JFK's casket, an image few will forget.
The JFK Assassination: Paying Respects At The Rotunda
by Carol Joynt

I was a little kid, sitting in English class at a Northern Virginia middle school only a few miles from Mount Vernon estate. My world was suburban, solid, secure, reasonably predictable, and on the occasions when there was a surprise it was generally a happy surprise. I had my parents, three siblings, a dog and a cat, and my own bedroom in a nice house.  I was not alone. There were another 70 million or so Americans who were more or less like me, young enough and innocent enough to believe that tomorrow and the next day would be like today and the day before.

At first the word “assassination” wasn't what we heard. What we heard was that John F. Kennedy had been shot in Texas. It was incomprehensible, of course. Our tearful English teacher tried to explain to our classroom of children that the President of the United States was dead. We were a generation that would eventually come to terms with mayhem and chaos, to more assassinations and to war. But on November 22, 1963 we were secure in our post World War II, baby boom bliss; a dreamy Happy-land.
The caisson arrives at the north side of the Capitol on Sunday, November 24, 1963
The north side of the Capitol today. The driveway is gone, replaced by a pedestrian plaza.
Staring at the sobbing teacher, we didn't know how to react. Some of us even giggled, as if it was a bizarre joke, but her distraught composure countered that thought. An announcement came over the public address system: school would be dismissed immediately; our yellow school buses were waiting outside.

The long and bumpy ride home was a blur. Half the kids, especially the youngest, went about their silly games, goofing off, chattering mindlessly. But there were others, including myself, who wrapped their arms around their schoolbooks and stared out the window, or pressed back tears, trying to make sense of what little we knew. Shot? Dallas? What about Jackie? What does it mean if the President is dead? Is he gone? Utterly gone?
The casket is carried up to the entrance to the Rotunda, with Mrs. Kennedy, John-John, Caroline and family following behind.
The steps to the Rotunda today are closed to the public, who must enter the building through a new subterranean Visitors Center.
The historic steps at the north side of the Capitol, which have witnessed inaugurations and funerals.
I arrived at home, as always, barging through the kitchen door. On a typical school day my mother would be there, waiting with a plate of sandwiches and chips, some milk and cookies. But the world had spun off its axis. The kitchen was empty. From the basement rec room I heard the TV. I clambered down the steps and found my mother sunken into a wing chair in front of the tube, gaping at Walter Cronkite. She was crying. It's jarring at any time for a child to see a parent in tears. This was also scary.

Not sure what to expect, my approach was tentative. I reached out and touched her arm and when she pulled me toward her I curled into the wing chair beside her, and we watched the television together. My little brothers came and went, my big sister joined us. Conversation was minimal and subdued. My mother stayed in the chair, her damp eyes locked on the black and white images on the screen. What struck me were the things she said. “This was bound to happen.” And, “he never should have gone to Texas.” She blamed Dallas, she blamed Vice President Lyndon Johnson, she blamed every citizen of the state. Only later in life would I develop a context for her perspective.
President Kennedy's casket is placed in the Capitol Rotunda.
The Capitol Rotunda today. Where the velvet ropes are is also where JFK's casket was placed for public viewing.
At home that night, and the next day, we glued ourselves to the TV as a family. The sadness came in small and large waves.

For three years I’d been enchanted with the Kennedy family — JFK, Jackie, Caroline and John-John. JFK loomed large in my life. My father, who was with the Pentagon, would take us to nearby Andrews Air Force Base to watch the president come and go on his trips. Today the image of him remains clear. His hands, either jabbing at his hair or in and out of his suit jacket pockets as he walked. His lankiness. Years later I would have the opportunity to spend some time with John Jr., when he was 35 years old, and the traces of similarity were stunning.
The departure from the Rotunda after an official ceremony.
The immediate impact of JFK’s death for me was an overwhelming need to bear witness, to get closer, to pay my respects in some important way.

The Sunday morning when JFK’s body was moved from the White House to the Capitol I asked my father, “Would you please drive me to Washington and drop me off so that I can see JFK's casket in the Rotunda?” He didn’t argue. He asked my 15-year-old sister to go with me. I didn’t think a chaperone was necessary, but so be it. He dropped us off downtown, where we joined a parade of mourners, quietly walking in the same direction toward Capitol Hill.
The line of mourners waiting for their turn to enter the Rotunda and file by the casket. This started in the afternoon and went through the night until morning.
We merged into a line that had formed at the back of the Capitol, the north side, where a tall bank of steps climbed to the Rotunda. There was a broad expanse of asphalt — a driveway and parking lot — where the caisson of horses and military and the carriage bearing the president’s body were scheduled to arrive from the White House. How we got near to the front of the line I don’t recall, but we were among the first rows of people — back from the steps but still relatively close to the arrival area.

We stood for hours. It was cold. It was uncomfortable. The wait and the discomfort didn't matter. Some people around us had transistor radios. That’s how we learned that Lee Harvey Oswald had been shot in a Dallas jail. The news spread fast by word of mouth. It added more layers of craziness, confusion and fear. Dallas, Texas, seemed to be the most dangerous place in the world.
The long stretch where mourners lined up to enter the Rotunda and pay their respects to JFK.
It's probably not the same lamp post, but it is in the same spot as it was in November 1963. From the top it provided a good view of the ceremony bringing JFK's casket to the Rotunda for public viewing.
When the caravan arrived the crowd stood taller. I couldn't see over the grown-ups. I looked up at a light post, saw opportunity and decided to go for it. I grabbed the metal pole and inched up. It was cold against the wool of my trousers. My muscles clenched, my hands in mittens held tight to the posts that stuck out of either side of the light. My sister’s voice from below: “I can't believe you’re up there. Be careful.” It wasn’t exactly comfortable but I had a great view. I could see Jackie, shrouded in black. I could see Bobby and Teddy. I saw other family members and little John-John and Caroline in blue coats. And then I saw the flag draped coffin.

This lamp post, or one just like it, is what I climbed up to watch Jackie Kennedy follow her husband's casket into the Capitol Rotunda.
Soldiers in uniforms bore the casket up the steps and the family followed. Inside, a formal ceremony was broadcast to the world, including the tender moment when Jackie took Caroline up to the casket.  Outside, we froze patiently.

When it was the public’s turn, after the official ceremonies ended, and the Kennedys and a crowd of dignitaries departed, and the afternoon sun was soon to set, the line came to attention in an orderly fashion. Slowly we moved across the wide parking area and driveway and climbed the steps to the Rotunda. The big door at the top offered warmth.

The first sight that caught my attention in the vast room were the lights and the bulky TV cameras behind them. The brightness was disorienting, almost blinding, but after my eyes adjusted they were drawn in one direction: to the casket. It was my first visit to the Capitol and my first time in a room with a casket.

The experience was an emotional deluge; the overall scene plus knowing that in the casket was the body of a man I adored, who had seemed larger than life, the same man I watched bounding up and down the steps of Air Force One, whose televised press conferences captivated me, whose images beside Jackie were something out of Hollywood. He was in a box under that flag? Dead? How could that be?
The public, passing by the casket.
Because ushers kept us moving I kept my composure. Still, I didn’t know what to do with my moment abreast of the casket, how to formally pay respects. We were Episcopalian, we didn’t overtly act out our faith, but just staring didn’t seem quite enough. No one talked. Some people cried. In front of me a woman stopped and turned, paused for a beat and made the Stations of the Cross. When she moved on I thought about it for a moment and then copied her exactly. It felt right.

The walk through the Rotunda went by quickly. We were ushered toward the door, out of the bright lights and back into the dusk and cold. My sister and I were tired, hungry, bewildered. We walked for blocks. My father dutifully met us at a prearranged location downtown. There was little talk in the car during the long drive home along the Potomac River.
Inside the Rotunda.
The door through which we entered the Rotunda, which is now closed to the public.
The Monday of the funeral I stayed shut inside my bedroom, watching a small TV that had rabbit ears. I cried in my pillow as the ceremonies moved from St. Matthews Cathedral, where John-John saluted his father, to Arlington Cemetery, where Jackie lit the Eternal Flame.

A few years earlier, when I was 10, I wrote a letter to President Kennedy, begging him not to go to war with the Russians, to please keep us safe. This sad Monday I was moved to write another letter, this one to Mrs. Kennedy. In my school cursive I told her how sorry I was for her and her children and how much I loved the president. I hoped she wouldn’t be sad for too long.

I folded the letter carefully, addressed the envelope with her name and “The White House, Washington, DC” and put it in the mailbox.
St. Matthews Cathedral today. It is where the Requiem Mass was held for JFK.Inside St. Matthews. Jackie Kennedy sat in the front pew on the right.
The steps of St. Matthews Cathedral, where John Kennedy, Jr., saluted his father's casket.
The next day we went back to our routines, and back to a world forever changed. By the time I graduated from high school in 1968 we were at war, classmates were being drafted and some killed, and both Martin Luther King and Bobby Kennedy also had been assassinated.
Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

Washington Social Diary

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The class picture with award winners and presenters.
THE AMERCAN INGENUITY AWARDS: WHERE WASHINGTON AND GENIUS COME TOGETHER
by Carol Joynt

Genius is a quality that rarely is the point of a Washington social event, but it was at the heart of a dinner for 250 invited guests who gathered in the Kogod Courtyard of the National Portrait Gallery. Smithsonian magazine hosted the American Ingenuity Awards, created only last year by editor-in-chief Michael Caruso.

Last year’s splendid dinner was simply a revelation for anyone who regularly travels the gala circuit. Caruso worried that this year’s event might not measure up, that it would experience a “sophomore slump.” He can put that worry to rest. 
The evening's hosts, Ari Shapiro of NPR and Smithsonian magazine editor-in-chief, Michael Caruso
Washington, in its sometimes endearingly stubborn way, likes to remain childish in its party life. It's popular here to have “proms” and call them that (at the lowest end, just Google “White House Correspondents Association dinner”). If Caruso wants to go there, the American Ingenuity Awards franchise gives him the lock on the prom for smart people. But my guess is he aims higher. And, why not? As with movie stars and politicians, Mensa members, too, enjoy coming to the nation's capital to be honored. It’s a mix of generations, where even the youngest act adult and the oldest remain young at heart. To be a guest among them is uplifting. I like to think that with so much intellectual wattage in the room some of it infuses the air and we all go home a little smarter.

The Kogod Courtyard is one of Washington’s special party places. It’s a massive space, but hemmed in comfortably by ancient walls and with a sweeping lattice roof that in daytime is a skylight. There’s a slate floor and tall trees, and at parties the lighting is blue and projected with a dappled almost liquid quality. And yet, even with all that grandeur, an intimate dinner feels intimate. Caruso and his team of event planners can’t imagine using any other space for their dinner.
The American Ingenuity Award, designed by Jeff Koons, who was also a presenter.
The beautiful Kogod Courtyard of the National Portrait Gallery, painted with dappled blue light, is an intimate setting regardless of its grandeur.
Musician David Byrne, one of the presenters, spoke for many in the room when he began his remarks with this one word: “Wow.” He was there to introduce his friend and occasional collaborator Annie Clark, who performs and records under the stage name St. Vincent.

She won the performing arts award. Byrne, in a loopy and charming way, gave a tutorial on the challenges and joys of creating innovative music. He practically performed his words, too, even at one point clasping his hands together and grinning. “This whole thing is really exciting.”
The Secretary of the Smithsonian, Wayne Clough, welcomes the 250 invited guests. No one had to buy a ticket for this dinner.
Michael Caruso, who created the American Ingenuity Awards, talked about President Lincoln, calling him one of the nation's most "cutting edge" presidents.
Saumil Bandyopadhyay and David Byrne on stage.
Also among the presenters was artist Jeff Koons, who’s recent success at auction gave Caruso a chance to get off a good one from the stage: “Just last week Jeff broke the record for the highest price ever paid for a work by a living artist, $58.4 million dollars. So, Jeff, you’re picking up the bar tab later on.”

Koons and Byrne were joined as presenters by Hubble Telescope astrophysicist and Nobel Laureate, Dr. Mario Livio; another Nobel Laureate, Dr. John Mather; U.S. Surgeon General, Dr. Regina Benjamin; Dr. Carol Greider, the director of molecular biology and genetics at Johns Hopkins University, and NPR’s Ari Shapiro, who also served as the evening’s emcee.
David Byrne used one word to describe the evening: "Wow."Jeff Koons, fresh off a very good day at Christie's.
Presenter Claire Shipman.David Aitken: Stand up, turn around, ask a question.
Choosing the award winners is a group effort by the Smithsonian Institution family, including directors, curators and staffers. “Each winner is embracing the Smithsonian’s mission to increase knowledge and shape the world of tomorrow,” said Caruso.

Last year, for example, the winners included Benh Zeitlin, director of Best Picture Oscar nominee “Beasts of the Southern Wild,” Elon Musk, the CEO of SpaceX and mastermind of Tesla Motors; musician Esperanza Spalding and Jack Andraka, a 15-year-old who invented a landmark test for early detection of pancreatic cancer. The youth winner this year, MIT freshman Saumil Bandyopadhyay, is 18, but his mother pointed out he was 15 when he invented his infrared radiation detector.
In the foreground, mechanical engineer Adam Steltzner and Caroline Hoxby. Both won American Ingenuity Awards.
Dave Eggers, Mimi Lok, and Ari Shapiro.
Caroline Hoxby, Mario Livio, David Byrne, and Adam Steltzner.
A laugh and a handshake after the formal part of the evening, St. Vincent, Shapiro, Bryne, Caruso, and Steltzner.
The 2013 American Ingenuity Award winners:

Mr. Doug Aitken (Visual Arts). His newest installation, “Mirror” is projected on to the Seattle Art Museum and changes in real time to reflect weather, pedestrian traffic and other activity. In Washington, he projected “Song1” on the exterior of the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden.
Mr. Saumil Bandyopadhyay (Youth Award). His unique infrared detector may one day reduce car crash rates by allowing vehicles to sense each other in fog or darkness, according to Smithsonian.
Friends and collaborators, musicians David Byrne and St. Vincent.
Mr. Dave Eggers & Ms. Mimi Lok (Social Progress). These San Franciscans developed the non-profit Voice of Witness that uses oral histories to bring attention to stories of human rights injustices throughout the world.
Dr. Caroline Hoxby, Stanford University (Education). She is finding talented children in poor families and helping them navigate their way to the best colleges.
Dr. John Rogers, University of Illinois (Physical Science). He is a materials scientist who creates innovative biodegradable devices that help in medical research. While on stage he popped one in his mouth. A few minutes later assured the audience “the device I ate earlier is about to dissolve and by tomorrow it will be gone.”
Dr. Michael Skinner, Washington State University (Natural Science). He has identified how exposure to man-made chemicals can be passed down to us from our ancestors and by us to future generations.
Dr. Adam Steltzner, NASA (Technology). He may have the swagger and pompadour of Elvis, but Dr. Steltzner devised the landing technology that got the rover “Curiosity” safely onto Mars. He is with NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory.
St. Vincent (Performing Arts). She was the only honoree who performed, doing two songs from her new album, “Love This Giant.”
Dr. Caroline Winterer, Stanford University (Historical Scholarship). In her work as a historian at Stanford University, she has created a comprehensive record of Benjamin Franklin’s communications that proves her view he was doing social media in the 18th century. Yes, before Facebook and Twitter, Ben got his thoughts out there.
The last to be honored, St. Vincent, also performed two songs from her new album, "Love This Giant."
While it would be easy to assume a room full of smart people would translate as stiff and stuffy, that was not the case at the Ingenuity Awards dinner. For example, guests jumped up out of their seats when Doug Aitken asked them to get up, turn around and ask a question of the nearest person. I don’t know whether any questions got asked – that can be awkward on demand – but we did enjoy something akin to the 7th inning stretch.

And one more thing:
unlike most Washington dinners, where guests start peeling away toward the doors around 9 o’clock, that did not happen on Tuesday night. They ate their four-course dinner of consommé, halibut, beef and dessert and stayed put through the last words, which came from Ari Shapiro: “Electricity. Kite. YOLO.”
After dessert was served the guests remained at their tables until the end of the awards program.
IF YOU ARE IN WASHINGTON OVER THANKSGIVING

If your Thanksgiving plans include Washington and you want something else to do in addition to turkey and football, why not try:

• A visit to the Freer/Sackler Gallery to tour “Yoga: The Art of Transformation.” The exhibition runs only into January. It will set your mind right for the crazy holiday season ahead.
Three Aspects of the Absolute from “Yoga: The Art of Transformation.”
• Ice skating in Georgetown. There’s a relatively new rink at the Washington Harbour complex on the banks of the Potomac River. It’s a good size and is ringed with restaurants. It’s a fun and happy place.
• Eat at Rose's Luxury on Capitol Hill.  Its status as the next big thing has been realized. It’s all the rage and rightly so. Chef/owner Aaron Silverman created a delicious, cozy and charming scene; what would result if Austin and Brooklyn hooked up and gave birth to a restaurant. (Direct from Austin they have Tito’s vodka and Cuvée coffee and the general manager’s last gig was at Uchiko.) But it’s also very Washington, circa right now.  Have the Kusshi oysters, with “dark & stormy” granita, the pork sausage, habanero & lychee salad, the Cacio e Pepe, the smoked brisket, the pickle-brined fried chicken.  They serve dinner Monday through Saturday. No reservations, but the bar upstairs is just fine if there’s a wait. If it’s a birthday, let them know because they do good birthday. 717 8th Street Southeast, 202-580-8889.
Elizabeth, one of the friendly servers at Rose's Luxury.
The kitchen counter at Rose's Luxury, one of the dining options that include tables or the upstairs bar.The tables and exposed cinder block walls at Rose's Luxury. The space was an alley that was enclosed to create the restaurant.
Happy Birthday at Rose's Luxury, but this is only the beginning of the extravaganza.
• If you have time for the theatre,“If/Then” with Idina Menzel and Anthony Rapp is finishing up its pre-Broadway tryout. The musical about a city planner (yes, you read that correctly) is at the National Theatre through December 9. Once upon a time all kinds of Broadway plays did their out-of-town tune-ups at the National. Here’s hoping this is the start of a trend. And since you’ll be only a 5 minute walk from the Ellipse, walk over to check out the National Christmas Tree as it gets decorated in advance of its official lighting, which is December 6. 

Wishing all of you a Happy Thanksgiving.
Georgetown on Saturday afternoon, November 23.
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

Washington Social Diary

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The Italian ambassador, Claudio Bisogniero, has reason to raise a glass – the dinner parties he hosts with his wife, Laura, are stand outs.
THOUGHTS ON 2013 AND THE GALA LIFE
by Carol Joynt

In the realm of big dinner parties the year 2013 has been the most robust in Washington since before the market crashed and the Great Recession took hold. This is not scientific, but based on going out many nights of the week; the mood is brighter, more people show up, the settings feel more festive; and flowers, extravagant lighting, music, premium brands, red meat and swag have returned with increasing verve. Not that they’d ever entirely gone away, but the high-end amenities – as with any signs of splash or excess – were toned way down after the fall (literally) of 2008.

It’s ironic, because the average person is not better off. Making ends meet is still a profound challenge. The cost of living goes up but not the take-home pay. The people who work the parties – the cooks, the servers – don’t have nearly the bank balances of the people who buy the $1000 per person tickets. But when business is good the benefits trickle down. Event planners and caterers say the fall has been strong, and for some the best ever.  Not that it’s crazy and over the top, but better, feeling more solid.
Beautiful flowers dominated the tables at the Wolf Trap Ball -- and in a good way.
Looking back over the year in photos, here are some thoughts on 2013 and the gala life. While they are in part the result of my own selfish desire to be entertained, they also reflect what I hear from the people who are seated on my left and right. When a whole table stares down at their devices, or checks the time, rather than looking at the stage or talking with each other, it’s because manners have eroded, but it’s also because the event didn’t succeed in distracting/enchanting them with something more interesting.

Too many dinners follow a tedious pattern; they do what’s expected rather than breaking the mold. Event planners lament: “They want it the way it was last year.” I would say, argue with that approach. And invoke this rule: endless speeches are death to a good night out.
The presentation of the colors, a ritual that is a signature of Washington and should be used as often as is legitimate.
The people who bought the gala tickets (and put on the tux, and the dress and shoes, and the jewels, got the refresher Botox, and dropped a few hundred on hair and make-up) already are in the corner of the host organization. They don’t need to be sold. A few prizes or awards are a nice thing, as well as a spotlight on real talent and accomplishment, but every member of the board and the executive staff do not need a speaking part.  Highlight them in the program with as much purple prose as is necessary. Make the evening a well-paced show.

Do use the Old Guard, aka the Joint Armed Forces Color Guard, as often as is legitimate. It’s a signature of Washington, and just the right dose of patriotism. Ditto a good military band. One of the stand-out moments of the year was the Navy Memorial Foundation “Lone Sailor” awards dinner held only two days after the September 16 Navy Yard shootings, where a gunman killed twelve people and injured three others. It was okay that the dinner wasn’t cancelled, but the guests were in mourning, and their deep emotions were answered by the presentation of the colors and a heart-tugging performance of “The Battle Hymn of the Republic” by the United States Marine Drum & Bugle Corps.
A memorable moment: the United States Marine Drum & Bugle Corps, playing the "Battle Hymn of the Republic" at the Lone Sailor awards dinner.
Location. Attendance numbers are rising, but until they are back up, rather than booking a huge space and half filling it – such as the cavernous National Building Museum and the Mellon Auditorium – consider a smaller space (the Library of Congress, for example) or a tent (as the Kennedy Center put to good use with their wintertime “Nordic Cool” gala). Hotel ballrooms can be pleasant but it would be helpful if the servers did not put the coffee cups down with the entrée. That one gesture flips the mood from gala to insurance industry convention.

In DC at least, the Four Seasons Hotel and the Mandarin Oriental Hotel have smaller, more intimate alternatives to their ballrooms, and even their ballrooms aren’t too mammoth. Kevin Spacey hosted a dinner for his foundation at the Mandarin, and it felt just right. The lighting, the flowers, the tables had the feel of a small dinner party.
The Kevin Spacey Foundation dinner at the Mandarin Oriental felt small and intimate thanks to lighting and flowers and the use of a smaller party room.
National Geographic achieved the nearly impossible at their 150th anniversary dinner: they made the cavernous National Building Museum feel intimate. It was one of the best galas of the year.
When the setting is as special as this, Mount Vernon, guests don't mind if the cocktail hour goes long. The lawn is lovely and the mansion is open for private wandering.
Drinks. Premium brands. Please. Do I need to invoke YOLO? Guests brighten up when they arrive for the cocktail hour and see what they drink or what they aspire to drink. It’s a dubious sign, as I recently experienced at a private club, when the booze is hidden under the bar. If you have a white rug or white upholstery you are forgiven for serving only white cranberry juice. But everybody else, no.

Don’t skimp on the wines. The cheaper wines generally are younger and translate as “hot,” or higher in alcohol and thus a quick path to unwelcomed hangovers. Find a way – an underwriter or generous wine importer – to serve quality wines. To all event hosts who offer good Champagne, thank you. To caterers who keep that good Champagne on ice, a double thank you.
Premium brands, here at the Opera Ball.
Champagne on ice at the gala dinner at Mount Vernon estate celebrating the opening of the Fred W. Smith Library.
Lighting. Keep the lights low but not so low that people can’t see each other or their food. Candles are a lovely touch, but again, people need to be able to see. The Mark Twain Prize gala at the Kennedy Center – in a tent – had candles on the tables and interesting lighting hanging overhead. Nice touch.
The Mark Twain Prize gala and dinner at the Kennedy Center. Short on speeches, long on entertainment. On stage Kennedy Center chairman David Rubenstein welcomes honoree Carol Burnett.
Clever lighting and seating for the dinner after the Mark Twain Prize program, where Carol Burnett was honored.
Beautiful flowers, beautiful lighting – a dinner party at the Italian Ambassador's residence, Villa Firenze.
The Symphony Ball, held in the Kennedy Center's party tent, mixed up table shapes and sizes, with romantic lighting.
Flowers are back and in a big way – here at the Hillwood gala in June.
Food. Canapés matter. For some busy people it may be the first food since breakfast. But make them easy to pop in the mouth and easy to chew and swallow. A lamb chop is delicious but can be challenging while being introduced to the guest of honor. Likewise, soup. Wielding a drink, un-manageable food and a conversation all at the same time is a bridge too far (and a potential Heimlich event).  Little sandwiches are satisfying and provide a landing pad for the alcohol. Smoked salmon and caviar are winning classics, of course.
Smoked salmon canapés at the July British Embassy party celebrating the birth of Prince George.
Easy to eat canapés -- Pimiento Sandwiches -- at the Hillwood gala.
Foie gras, another easy to manage canapé, by Susan Gage Caterers, at the Hillwood gala.
Red meat is showed up a lot in 2013. Here at a private luncheon hosted at home by architect Hugh Jacobsen and prepared by the chef of the French Embassy.
Welcomed: a mostly fruit dessert at the National Geographic Society 150th anniversary gala.
Chocolates and cookies are a welcomed dessert alternative. These were served by Bryan Voltaggio at the opening of his restaurant, Range, in February.
If you’re serving oysters (a nice touch, btw) set up an oyster bar with a counter for proper oyster eating. They get it almost right at the awesome Louisiana State Society Mardi Gras gala – lots of oysters and a place to eat them right there by the shuckers. That party is so off the chain, though, where do I begin?
CJ at the Loiusiana State Society Mardi Gras gala. Need we say more?Partner in crime (because you can't go to a party solo), Shane Harris of Foreign Policy at the Louisiana State Society Mardi Gras soiree.
No guest will ever hate the host for serving lighter, less carb-heavy main courses. It’s terrific that beef and lamb tenderloin are again prevalent on event menus, but how about some alternatives to the slab of red meat? Stews, for example: Coq au Vin or Beef Bourguignon.

The Washington Ballet served Bouillabaisse at its wonderful spring gala at the Library of Congress, where everything about the evening felt re-thought and fresh. Make the vegetarian alternative something other than the basic entrée minus the protein. Perhaps a vegetable terrine with greens. Consider fruit and cheese for dessert. Maybe accompanied by premium chocolates and cookies. I asked for fruit at a recent Four Seasons gala and when my plate arrived everyone nearby stared with envy.
The annual gala of the Washington Ballet had a special setting at the Library of Congress, and a special menu, too: Bouiallbaise.
Seating. When a dinner is large, use smaller, more intimate tables. A round table for 10 or 12 multiplied by 50 or 60 sucks the oxygen out of a room. Worse still is a sea of large round tables in a giant room with a stage at the far end. Distance also uses up oxygen. Go square, go rectangular, go small round (for 8) or, as at the “Nordic Cool” dinner, or the Italian ambassador’s, do King’s seating.

The stage is a fixture, I know, but those seated up front feel too close and those in the back recognize they are in Siberia. Consider putting the show into the room. Put microphones on your speakers and seat them at different tables. Have them stand up and speak from their table. It’s fresh and keeps your most far-flung table included. Or, if you must use a stage, keep the script fast-paced. Break it up with some breathing room. I’d bring up videos – which I don’t like at dinners – but I fear they are here to stay.
King's seating at the "Nordic Cool" gala at the Kennedy Center in February.
A nice combination: big event, small tables. Here is a post-opera opening night dinner party at the Kennedy Center.
Small and intimate: tables for 8 at a March dinner hosted by Connie Milstein at her Jefferson Hotel.
More music. The Washington Performing Arts Society at its annual gala has the guests up and dancing even before the first course hits the table. This year they encouraged guests to get up and dance while Glee’s Matthew Morrison performed part of his act. It was liberating, because it’s logical for people to want to dance when a showman like Morrison is channeling Frank Sinatra.
Fun for everyone: Matthew Morrison enjoyed putting on his show, and the guests of the Washington Performing Arts Society danced and went home with a good memory.
At the Washington Performing Arts Society gala, while Matthew Morrison sang on stage, guests took to the dance floor.
Dancing at the Wolf Trap Ball started before 10 pm, which is just right for a Sunday night (and almost any night).
Timing. Set a tight schedule and follow it. If you have to cut along the way, do it. Don’t drag on, especially on a Friday or Saturday night. This can’t be emphasized enough and everyone who goes out to galas knows what I mean. Think of the guests. You’ve got their money, you’ve got their good graces, now don’t take advantage of them. Don’t give them a reason to slip guiltily toward the doors before the dessert course. Give them a good time, and a reason to pay twice as much next year.

Obviously, if the main event is a notable speaker, go with it. But make that IT. Because face it, few people can give speeches as well-trimmed and timed as Vice President Joe Biden or former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. (But, hey, aren’t they running for office?)
Keeping the speeches short and snappy and about the talent: Washington National Opera Francesca Zambello, after she introduced the cast and crew of "Norma" at the opening night dinner.
If the event is going to have a long speech, try to keep it to one or two people and make them showstoppers, such as Hillary Clinton, appearing at the Vital Voices event, her first public appearance in Washington after leaving the State Department. Actually, she did not talk for long. She knows. Vice President Joe Biden at the Opera Ball -- brief remarks followed by dancing to a big band. Score!
Here Arvind Manocha, the new president of the Wolf Trap Foundation, welcomes guests to his first ball. Short speeches came after dinner and before dancing. Well timed.
Oh, last but not least, swag. You don’t have to do swag but if you are going to do swag please make it something more than a magazine, an annual report, advertisements from your sponsors, and an envelope for gift giving. Something that feels gifty. A little box of chocolates is ideal swag. Or cookies. Something sweet to take home and that triggers a happy memory of the occasion. When they hosted the Opera Ball, the United Arab Emirates set up a candy buffet. Little bags and scoops were provided. The guests had a blast choosing between all kinds of different colorful candies to take home for their children (or themselves).

In sum: think of it this way when the co-chairs and gala committee gather to plot the big soirée: designing a party is like putting on jewelry or editing a résumé. Edit, cut, and tighten up. Go with the quality. Less is more. Follow that rule and all will go well, and everyone will say, and honestly, that it was “a winner.”

Next: most memorable events of 2013
Perfect swag: cookies to take home after a summertime Mexican dinner party hosted by Larry Calvert and Mike Mitchell at their Georgetown home. Nice touch: Larry, in addition to being a realtor, is also a baker, and made the cookies from scratch.
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

The Rauschenberg Residency on Captiva

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Weeks Cottage at The Rauschenberg Residency on Captiva. L. to r: Oliver Bell, Mauro Cerqueira, Dawn DeDeaux, Sean Foley, and Andrew Rodes. Although each artist has their own living and work space, they share meals and have areas where they can talk about the latest. On the right wall, Robert Rauschenberg's Yellow Ranch, 1988.
Artists at Work:
The Rauschenberg Residency on Captiva

By Augustus Mayhew

At the same time Robert Rauschenberg's canvases and concepts explored a multi-dimensional shifting interplay of dynamic styles and inventive techniques, resulting in a revolutionary aesthetic mix, the legendary artist created an island refuge on the west coast of Florida where he combined a passion for innovation, preservation and conservation by introducing an immense state-of-the-art studio within an assemblage of wood-frame historical cottages set amid an existing timeless native landscape. Since his death in 2008, Rauschenberg's artworks have become the focus of collectors, curators, and auction houses, garnering the attention of critics and art historians. And yet, even with his vast spectrum of innumerable artworks held by the world's most prominent collections and museums, Rauschenberg's most notable legacy may actually rest with his largest canvas — his twenty-acre compound recently transformed into a residency program for artists "to facilitate experimentation and collaboration."

"The development of an artists' residency on the property where Robert Rauschenberg lived and worked for more than forty years is one of our major programs. The residency builds on this legacy of new ideas, new work and supporting generations of new artists," said Christy MacLear, executive director of the Robert Rauschenberg Foundation (RRF), formed in 1990. The RRF is headed by Rauschenberg's son Christopher Rauschenberg, the foundation's president and chairperson. The board of directors includes: Chuck Close, Susan Davidson, Sidney B. Felsen, Allan Fulkerson, Liz Glassman, Agnes Gund, Alex Herzan, Fredericka Hunter, Dorothy Lichtenstein, and Richard E. Oldenburg.
This photograph of Rauschenberg with his son, photographer Christopher Rauschenberg, is on the wall at Weeks Cottage.Top, Robert Rauschenberg and his parents. Above, Rauschenberg, his wife Susan Weil, and their son Christopher.
Artists with the Residency's initial pilot program left their autographs a studio wall.
Based as much on Rauschenberg's faith that "Art can change the world," as inspired by the artist's own collaborative experiences at Black Mountain College, the RRF launched a successful pilot program that was followed by scheduling six four-week sessions with eight to ten artists in each session. Artists from all disciplines—painters, photographers, writers, dancers, filmmakers — were selected anonymously. They were invited to participate in the program and awarded a stipend and living expenses during the term. The first session extends from October 27 to December 7. I recently had the pleasure of spending a few days at The Rauschenberg while the artists were in their fourth week of the session.

Here are my impressions, some of their works/projects/concepts/sketches/fragments/scenarios of works in progress, and a look-around at the sublime and the subliminal.
The enclave's more polished bayside entrance leads to Rauschenberg's ultra-modern Studio, Bay House resident apartments, and island cottages.
The Studio's bayside elevation overlooks the pool towards the east. The centerpiece for the upper stair landing is The Ancient Incident, a patina cast bronze work by Rauschenberg.
The Studio and the swimming pool.
The swimming pool.
Across Captiva Drive, a more secluded unspoiled path winds through native habitats around an array of vernacular cottages leading to Rauschenberg's Beach House and original Studio. "Bob had a VW Bug and he would drive back and forth from the Beach House to Captiva Drive, making this road that the staff would follow along staking out the twists and turns," said Ann Brady.
I walked the path several times, different times of day, amid the Australian pines, palms, sea grapes, and banyans, a treasure of Old Island hammock plantings.
The Beach House, facing the Gulf of Mexico.
From the Beach House, a spectacular view of the Gulf of Mexico, where on a clear day you can imagine Robert Rauschenberg could see Port Arthur, Texas, the place where he was born.
Back on the bay side, the residents and staff gather for a wine tasting at Weeks Cottage.
First Impressions

Although the Rauschenberg Residency's 20-acre sanctuary from the Fish House to the Beach House is divided by Captiva Drive, the separation heightens the awareness between the wilds of Old Captiva along the beachfront where Rauschenberg first lived and worked, and the newer, much more sophisticated bayfront, where the contemporary studio and apartments are sheltered by mangroves.
The Shed. As you round the corner on the bayside, this is the first building that comes into view.
The high-tech state-of-the-art Studio, west elevation.
The southwest corner of the main studio building structurally complements The Shed, containing the ceramic and welding studio.
The Studio, loading dock area.
Matt Hall, the Facilities Supervisor, who has worked at the Rauschenberg for 14 years, leads me up the monumental staircase.
From the top of the stairs, looking towards the loading area.
The Shed. Windows, side elevation.
When you step through the door at the top of the stairs, you enter the 8,000-square-foot area of what was Robert Rauschenberg's Studio. The glass doors open onto the bay side. Director Ann Brady's office is the door to the right of the doors.
The principal area, of what was Robert Rauschenberg's Studio, is currently being shared by Melissa Staiger and, at the far end, Dawn DeDeaux.
The Rauschenberg Studio. Dawn DeDeaux is at work with Carrell Courtright, one of the program's resident technical support staff.
Ann Brady, director of the Rauschenberg Residency, and artist Sean Foley.
Sean Foley
Visual artist

I've been making various pencil sketches, possible installations or paintings, some based on more classical paintings, battle scenes, and the like, transforming them into a more abstract form. — Sean Foley
Sean Foley.
Sketch, work in progress. Sean Foley. A recent large installation by Foley was described as "beyond figure and beyond abstraction into a kind of battle between wonder and the monstrous.
Sketch, work in progress. Sean Foley.
Sketch, work in progress. Sean Foley
Waldo Cottage
Waldo Cottage. Side elevation. On the bayside between the Studio and Weeks Cottage.
Waldo Cottage. Front entrance.
David Leggett
Mixed Media artist
"I'm up early here. I try to get to my studio by 8 am and leave around 7 pm. I like working here." Chicago mixed-media artist David Leggett.
"Let's talk Feminism," a sketch for a possible work. Having received his MFA from the Art Institute of Chicago, more recently, David attended the Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture. His work has been seen in solo exhibitions in Chicago galleries and group shows in New York.
"Please excuse the coffee stains. These are some studies of possible things I might want to do as paintings or more completed pieces."
"Hurry up and buy." Work in progress. David Leggett.
David Leggett. I had the pleasure of sitting across from David during the sushi lunch. I told him I thought his work was simply sensational!
"Afro Punk. I have high blood pressure." David Leggett, who attended the Savannah College of Art & Design from 2000 to 2003.
Photographer Laurie Lambrecht, at work for the RRF.
Standing center, Monica Marin, Residency coordinator, along with staff members Joshua Lewis and Laurie Lambrecht. Far right, George Bolster..
The Fish House
The Fish House. Originally built in 1942 by J.N. "Ding" Darling, Pulitzer Prize-winning editorial cartoonist, Robert Rauschenberg bought it in 1978. For Rauschenberg, the Fish House was described as his "muse."
The Fish House. The Sanibel National Wildlife Refuge is named for Ding Darling.
From the Fish House balcony, a view of the beyond.
Passing by the Fish House, heading down the Pine Island Sound.
A view of the Studio and Bay House roofs, secluded by the shoreline mangroves.
Melissa Staiger
Visual artist

I am THANKFUL to the anonymous person who nominated me for an artist residency at the Robert Rauschenberg Residency on Captiva. — Melissa Staiger
Brooklyn-based Melissa Staiger is a non-objective painter. "Here I have time to work on possible paintings, make various studies in color and form."
Melissa Staiger. Work in progress.
Melissa Staiger. Works in progress. An MFA graduate from the Pratt Institute, NYC, Staiger's work is included in the Flat Files at the Janet Kurnatowski Gallery, Brooklyn.
Melissa Staiger's shell collection. Melissa and Athena LaTocha are sharing the cottage on the beach side where Rauschenberg curated his work.
Melissa's work tables, foreground, in the Rauschenberg Studio.
The Original Rauschenberg Studio
The path to the beachfront Studio.
Cultivating beauty along the windswept gulf coast.
Rauschenberg's original studio is steps from the beach on the gulf side.
The original Studio, west elevation.
At the original Studio, the crossed coconut palms caught my eye.
Steps leading up to the Studio where Ann Carlson, dancer/choreographer, has been at work.
Ann Carlson
Dancer/Choreographer

I'm working on a performance piece that involves inter-species communication. — Ann Carlson
Ann Carlson works in Robert Rauschenberg's original beachside studio. Carlson's imaginative repertoire combines choreography, performance, theater, as well as conceptual art.
Ann was rehearsing when I stopped in, appearing to embody an elephant.
Work in progress by Ann Carlson.
The Dance Studio, a frame vernacular cottage on the gulf side.
Athena LaTocha
Visual artist

My images begin with my memory of Alaska—specifically the irony between vast, open spaces devoid of human contact and the impact of industrial development upon nature. Looking at tidal forces of nature and human interaction with the earth, my practice employs a system of abrupt actions and unwieldy tools.— Athena LaTocha
Athena LaTocha's studio is the garage space between the Beach House and Rauschenberg's original studio. Born in Anchorage, she "lives in Queens and works in Brooklyn." A graduate of the Art Institute of Chicago, she received her MFA from Stony Brook and for several years studied at the Art Students League.
Works in progress. Athena LaTocha.
Athena LaTocha at work on one of her abstracts on photo paper.
Work in progress, detail. Athena's work at the Rauschenberg Residency will be shown in Manhattan from 17-29 January 2014 at Gallery Sensei, 278 Grand Street.
Andrew Rodes
Writer
A New York-based screenwriter and author, Andrew Rodes is working on a "coming-of-age" novella and several short stories. Finding New Mexico too sedate, Andrew has settled in Manhattan where he finds the nightlife doesn't "roll-up at 9 o'clock like it did in Santa Fe."
Andrew Rodes . While at the New Mexico Film School, Andrew wrote "The Boston Post," a short film about a newspaper redefining its role in the 21st century. "Being here is a great gift," remarked Andrew.
Andrew Rodes.
Facing the sound, the Bay House provides both apartments above and studio spaces on the lower level where Mauro Cerqueira and Oliver Bell have spent the past several weeks working on various endeavors.
Mauro Cerqueira
Visual artist

I've been working on something made from objects I found in Ft. Myers. — Mauro Cerqueira.
Mauro Cerqueira. Mauro lives and works in Porto, Portugal, having a degree in Fine Arts from the Escuela Superior Artistica de Porto. During the past several years, he has had solo shows in Berlin, London, Madrid, and Lisbon.
Work in progress. Mauro Cerqueira.
Mauro has accumulated several shelves of objet trouvé during his stay on Captiva that may or may not find their way into one of his fascinating combines..
Oliver David Bell
Filmmaker/video artist

I got into working with moving imagery through filming my friends skateboard and make music. — Oliver David Bell
One of Oliver Bell's most recent videos featured his father, artist Larry Bell, "Larry Bell in Perspective," Carrere d'Art Musee Contemporain de Nimes. Bell lives in Taos and Venice Beach.
"I've been working on this series of watercolors."
Oliver Bell, at work.
"I've also been working on these silvery metallic objects." - Oliver Bell.
Oliver Bell.
Oliver Bell studies the wine aroma color chart during a winetasting for residents and staff held by a local vintner at Weeks Cottage.
Athena LaTocha samples a Merlot.
George Bolster
Visual artist

I've been able to almost complete a 17-minute film titled "Self-Erosion" while I've been here. — George Bolster
George Bolster, at work in his studio space at The Rauschenberg. Currently based in New York, George Bolster's installations, drawings, and sculptures have been widely-exhibited in his home country, Ireland, as well as London and Los Angeles.
An image from "Self Erosion," a work in progress by George Bolster.
George Bolster and Melissa Staiger heading from the dining room at Weeks Cottage back to their studios.
George Bolster.
At the Sushi Class & Lunch, Weeks Cottage
Mauro, George, Sean, and Melissa took a sushi class with a local chef. Voila! Lunch is ready.
Terri Schwab, third from left, is the cook and house coordinator; she leads a round of applause for Chef Teh, far right, sushi and sashimi master at the nearby Timbers Restaurant on Sanibel Island.
The chopsticks are at the ready in the dining porch at Weeks Cottage.
A savory sushi lunch with Singapore rice noodles..
Carrell Courtright, studio technician.
Weeks Cottage, the Residency's dining hall, kitchen, and function gathering place.
Dawn DeDeaux
Media artist

My work in Captiva is building components to join the work of my current show "Aboard the MotherShip: Postulations of Myth and Math," now on view at a museum in Mobile. The additional elements will be shown along with the existing one, opening June 2014 at a museum in Lafayette, Louisiana where Rauschenberg's sister lives and is a trustee of the museum.— Dawn DeDeaux.
Here on Captiva I place man in a world now radically changed, in a nostalgic longing for a 'nature' past, clearly an innocence lost. Hence the child-like motifs of flowers on my spacemen's camouflage protective suits. Other suits are realized with toile and other fabrics inspired by landscape Part One puts forth rather apocalyptic landscapes and mythic and mathematical predictions for a gloomy future. — Dawn DeDeaux at work in her studio space that was where Rauschenberg worked.
Artist Dawn DeDeaux holding a photograph of a local firefighter dressed in a Haz-Mat suit used as a model for her space-age protective suit.
A possible rendering of one of Dawn DeDeaux's spacemen suits adorned with daisies.Dawn DeDeaux's working rendering of a spaceman's daisy-covered protective suit.
Studio technician Joshua Lewis assists Dawn with the metallic scrap representing a disintegrating space ship that will be part of the installation.
Views of and from the Studio
The centerpiece. Robert Rauschenberg. The Ancient Incident. Patina cast bronze, 86 1/2 x 91 x 21 inches.
Twenty steps to the Studio.
The swimming pool.
A view to the northeast.
From the pool deck looking up to the Studio.
Robert Rauschenberg. The Ancient Incident. Patina cast bronze, detail.
Standing guard along the mangroves at the Rauschenberg Residency on Captiva.
Robert Rauschenberg (1925-2008).
Captiva

It had been thirty years since I last visited Captiva, before the post-Reagan era's tsunami-like mansion movement that has swept over the once remote far-flung island. While Sanibel Island has retained much of its natural setting, however much commercial development has mushroomed since my last visit. On Captiva, I stayed at the charming 'Tween Waters Inn, swarming with shore birds, that had the right mix of charm and convenience.
'Tween Waters Inn. Captiva.
'Tween Waters Inn, Captiva. Cottage.
My respect grew for bird photographers.
'Tween Waters Inn, beach front.
The Island Store, Captiva. Everything you'll ever need on the island. The Starbucks is in a plaza on the north side of The Rauschenberg.
Sunrise & Sunset on Sanibel Island
The Venusian and Martian tones of the Sanibel sunrise were enchanting. Note, flocks of shellers hit the beach well before dawn.
Sanibel sunrise, best described by J. G. Ballard's sci-fi scenarios..
Now the shellers can get back to shelling.
Another new day on Sanibel Island.
Sanibel Refuge
Sunset on Sanibel Island
Moments before the sunset.
Sundowners, the Sanibel style.
Sanibel sunset.
Sunset for the birds.
Nightfall on Sanibel Island, time for the no-see-ums and the bug spray.
Photographs by Augustus Mayhew.

Augustus Mayhew is the author ofLost in Wonderland – Reflections on Palm Beach.

Washington Social Diary

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Jill Biden, with her own fashion flair, standing out in the crowd at a dinner at Villa Firenze.
THE MOST MEMORABLE PARTIES OF THE YEAR, PT 1 (WINTER AND SPRING)
by Carol Joynt

What makes a great party? It’s a question, a science, and an art form that get tested every day, everywhere, among every class, generation, and persuasion. The judging is quite personal, because one person’s winner may be another person’s bore; though I suspect a genuinely terrific party would enchant universally. The best measures, for me, are quality (guests, food, drink, setting), tone (happy hosts, no stress), relevance (what’s it about), and specialness (not the same old, same old). But the biggest measure of all is the simplest: was it fun and memorable?

Last week I wrote about galas and events in general – what makes them good, what makes them less than good. This week begins a roundup of the most memorable parties of the year, and why, as well as a place or two. Is it arbitrary? Of course it is. Absolutely.
The view from the balcony of the Hay-Adams hotel rooftop.
THE WINTER
January brought the second inauguration of President Barack Obama. There were more receptions, luncheons, parties and balls than any one person could keep track of – or attend – but if I had to pick just one (and since I wasn’t among the guests at the President’s private inaugural after-party at the White House), it would be a Saturday seated luncheon arranged, funded and hosted by Obama insider Reggie Van Lee, and held on the rooftop of the Hay-Adams Hotel. The setting is such a kick: floor to ceiling French doors open to balconies and a breathtaking view of Washington, with the White House down in front.
An animated Jessye Norman had a good time at a Saturday inaugural luncheon hosted for her by Reggie Van Lee, chairman of the Washington Performing Arts Society.
Lee hosted the party in his capacity as chairman of the board of the Washington Performing Arts Society and it honored opera singer Jessye Norman. There were 150 guests, many from New York, and included Attorney General Eric Holder and Chief of Protocol Capricia Marshall, ten ambassadors and the elite of the DC performing arts community. Everyone seemed to know everyone else.

The wines were Champagne from Pommery, plus Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir from Steele. The menu included ham biscuits, smoked salmon carpaccio with asparagus, filet mignon with morel sauce, scrambled eggs and potatoes, and strawberries with bruléed sabayon for dessert. Audra McDonald sang in tribute to Norman, who seemed to be sincerely enjoying herself.
Drinks were good and plentiful at the Hay-Adams rooftop for one of the best parties of the Obama inauguration.
Rachel Pearson, a member of the WPAS board, welcomes guests to the luncheon honoring Jessye Norman.
Smoked salmon and asparagus on the menu.
After the January pre-inaugural party, with the French doors wide open, a good look at the Hay-Adams choice view of Washington.
Also in January: a 100th birthday celebration for Richard Nixon. The former president, who resigned in disgrace in the Watergate scandal and died in 1994, was toasted and honored by the old faithful who are still with us, including Henry Kissinger, who praised Nixon’s “courage and vision,” Pat Buchanan, and Fred Malek, who told the guests in the packed Mayflower Hotel ballroom “you are among the best friends a man or woman could have.”

Also appearing on stage were Nixon daughters Tricia Nixon Cox and Julie Nixon Eisenhower. Regardless of one’s politics, there was a lot of history, and real Washington, in the room.
At the pre-dinner cocktail reception Henry Kissinger stops to take a phone call at the Richard Nixon 100th birthday celebration.
The ballroom of the Mayflower Hotel, packed with the Nixon faithful, celebrating the late president's 100th birthday. The birthday cake was in the shape of his childhood home.
A high point of the evening was the chance to introduce my guest, Harry Shearer, an actor who has portrayed Nixon a number of times, to Nixon’s younger brother Edward “Ed” Nixon, who is in his 80s. In fact, we three hung out together in the bar after the dinner. Ed even raised his hands over his head and flashed the two-handed, two-finger victory sign associated with his brother almost to the point of caricature. But he also told fond stories of their childhood.
The two actors at the Nixon party: former Tennessee senator Fred Thompson, known for "Law and Order," plus a lot of films, and Harry Shearer, one of the stars of "The Simpsons," as well as "This Is Spinal Tap."
Harry Shearer with Ed Nixon, Richard Nixon's younger brother.
February can be a long, hard month, but it perked up toward the end when “Top Chef” star Bryan Voltaggio opened his new restaurant, Range. The food and fun of the occasion transcended what was basically a party in a shopping mall, though not a run of the mill mall as it is in one of the priciest parts of the city.

The eight or more bartenders made delicious trend-forward cocktails as servers brought round wave after wave of food, including oysters, clams and shrimp from the raw bar, beef and lamb from the grill, big baskets of rolls from the bakery, as well as salad and pastas.

Washington Mayor Vincent Gray stopped by and got a personal tour from Voltaggio. On the way out, guests were offered take-home cookies and candies that were made in-house.
A party in an upscale shopping mall, the Chevy Chase Pavilion, for the opening of Bryan Voltaggio's Range restaurant.
Bryan Voltaggio gives a personal tour to Washington Mayor Vincent Gray.
Trend forward cocktails, served with a smile, at Range.
Charcuterie at Range.
The Range opening party.
At the Range opening party, guests were served whatever they wanted from the restaurant's long menu of seafood, grilled meats, pasta and pizzas.
Pasta with lobster at Range.
Since opening in February, Range has become popular in Washington, especially with families. But the good cocktails make it very adult-friendly, too.
Another engaging change of pace came in March with a Saturday luncheon that winemaker Rutger de Vink hosted at his RdV Vineyards in Delaplane, Virginia. It was intimate as 12 guests joined Rutger in a “blind” tasting of a couple of his own Bordeaux-style wines, Rendezvous and Lost Mountain, matched against two more established brands: a Chateau Lynch-Bages from France, and a Caymus Special Selection Cabernet from Napa. All were the 2009 vintage.

We dined by a roaring fire in a glass-walled room of the winery, with views of the Blue Ridge Mountains all around. We also toured the handsome facility, including the stainless steel wine vats, the dimly lit subterranean cave where the wine barrels are stored, and Rutger’s private cellar.
Rutger de Vink, owner of RdV Vineyards in Delaplane, Virginia, hosts a wine tasting lunch by the fire.
The trick (and the fun) was being able to know which wines were Rutger's and which were classic grand cru vintages from Bordeaux.
A tour of the large subterranean wine storage caves carved out of the rock under the winery.
Lest anyone doubt RdV Vineyards occupies rocky terrain, a staffer showed off an example of what's underneath the sloping green hillsides.
The wine barrels are imported from France.Our host, winemaker Rutger de Vink, above ground. He wants to prove a great Bordeaux-style wine can come from Virginia.
Tulips and wine on a late winter day.
The beautiful RdV winery at the entrance.
Looking at it from the rear. The room shown below is on the left.
THE SPRING
Late March brings a thaw in more ways than one; social life renews as well. Helping to hasten the season was a dinner at the Italian ambassador’s residence, Villa Firenze, and hosted by Amb. Claudio Bisogniero, his wife, Laura, Elle Magazine, and Gucci. It was a happy, even robust occasion, as if we’d all just come out of a cryogenic freezer and woke up to a warm evening in Milano, enhanced by pink flowers, linens and golden candlelight.

Washington’s not a fashion-driven town but this annual event – honoring women “luminaries” – gets us at least near the subject. Two of the guests were also two of the city’s best-dressed: Jill Biden, the wife of the Vice President, and lobbyist Heather Podesta. Their signature looks, in synch with Washington, are tasteful and understated, but for this party they added some flair – Biden in backless navy and white, Podesta in head to toe, willowy mauve and yellow silk Gucci, completed by strappy yellow stiletto sandals. It appeared that other guests stepped it up a notch, too. But this underscores a good thing about Washington – no one cares what you wear; it’s what you do, where you do it, and whether you have the ear of power.
Jill Biden's backless dress, which she wore to a dinner hosted by Italian Ambassador Claudio Bisogniero, on the left, Gucci and Elle magazine. Robbie Myers, on the right, is the magazine's editor in chief.
Heather Podesta in head to toe Gucci.Again, head to toe - Heather Podesta's Gucci stilettos.
Christophe de Pous of Gucci with Jill Biden
At the Italian ambassador's dinner for women "luminaries," co-hosted by Gucci, the waiters from Georgetown's Cafe Milano were all kitted out in Gucci slip ons (and big smiles, too).
Apart from the TV screens, the dinner at Villa Firenze felt like coming out of the cryogenic deep freeze and into a warm evening in Milano.
Another delightful event came in April, again with a fashion theme and courtesy of Saks Fifth Avenue and the Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation. It was a luncheon and fashion show featuring Jason Wu, who is a favorite of First Lady Michelle Obama (both inaugural ball gowns). He sat with one of the principal organizers, philanthropist Elise Lefkowitz, who lost her mother, Estelle Gelman, to Alzheimer's, and Saks president Ronald L. Frasch, as models paraded at practically the edge of their table. The honoree was public broadcasting executive Sharon Percy Rockefeller, whose father, former Illinois Senator Charles Percy, died from the disease. Making the welcoming remarks was the Foundation’s co-chair, Leonard Lauder.

It was a bright, cheerful, relaxed and chatty event. Georgia Frasch, the mother of two 8-year-olds – who remained at home – gushed about the joys of a hotel getaway with her husband. They stayed at the Four Seasons in Georgetown, where they cozied up by a fire pit on the outdoor terrace, she said, before hitting the hay. “We got such a good night’s sleep, and there were no interruptions and no one crawling in our bed.”
Jason Wu and Elise Lefkowitz.Wu said that during his visit to Washington he did spend some time with First Lady Michelle Obama. He designed her ball gowns for both Obama inaugurations.
Georgia and Ronald Frasch - he's the president of Saks Fifth Avenue -- enjoyed having a hotel getaway together in Washington.
Luncheon and fashion show in a tent, hosted by Saks Fifth Avenue and the Alzheimer's Drug Discovery Foundation.
The Saks luncheon was relaxed, chatty, and fun.
The fashion show.
Rounding out the spring, among a crowd of events, were the annual galas of The Washington Ballet and Hillwood Museum. Different in style and mode but both special and both, coincidentally, using caterer Susan Gage. Billed as an “Evening in Paris,” The Ballet gala was a big, splashy celebration at the gorgeous Library of Congress. Can-can dancers, a homage to Ernest Hemingway, flapper style on some of the guests, Bouillabaisse for dinner, crepes for dessert, and champagne and dancing that fizzed and rolled past midnight. It set a benchmark for all other galas.
The happy mood of the young dancers outside carried on inside, too, for the annual gala of The Washington Ballet, an "Evening in Paris" at the Library of Congress.
The Washington Ballet gala started with an exuberant can-can.At The Washington Ballet ball, William Paley, Jr., and Allison Paley, who added some flapper style to her look.
At the Washington Ballet gala, dinner conversation in the foreground as, in the background, gala co-chairs Chris Dodd and his wife, Jackie, pose for a photo.
Septime Webre, the Washington Ballet's artistic director, with NPR's Ari Shapiro. The gala harkened the opening of "Hemingway: The Sun Also Rises," a ballet choreographed by Webre.
Bruce Lipnick with his daughter, Olivia, one of the dancers with the Washington Ballet.The ballet's board chair, Sylvia A. de Leon, said that after the "Evening in Paris" gala she was deluged with "thank you's" from guests who thought it was one of the best parties of the year. It was.
The Hillwood gala was held at Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens, the former Washington home of Marjorie Merriweather Post. The June evening had to be the prettiest of the spring – sunny, warm but not too warm, and dry, perfect for cocktails on the circular drive at the front of the mansion and dinner out back on the large green lawn bordered by azaleas.

The mansion was open for wandering, including Post’s relatively large, and pink, bomb shelter, where rosé Champagne was served.  The flower arrangements on the tables were eye-popping and came from Hillwood’s greenhouse. The menu was a Post favorite: gazpacho and salmon fillet en Papillote. The theme of the gala was “living artfully,” reflecting a new exhibition. For next year's gala the theme is “Cartier,” so ladies and gentlemen, polish up the roller rings and Love bracelets, not to mention the diamonds and pearls.
At the start of the annual Hillwood gala, waiters were ready with wine and Champagne outside the front of Marjorie Merriweather Post's Washington mansion, now a museum.
The Hillwood gala was graced with one of the prettiest evenings of the spring.
Sophie Delattre, wife of the French ambassador, with Hillwood board member Amy Bondurant and her husband, David Dunn.
Washington's old guard are the regulars at the Hillwood gala. Here, Nancy and Richard Marriott.
John Palmer, a well-known NBC anchorman, and a Hillwood board member. He died in the summer after a brief illness.
The flowers for the Hillwood gala came from the museum's own greenhouse.
The Hillwood gala is always a family affair. Here are some of Marjorie Merriweather Post's direct descendants: Sam and George Iverson, Ellen Charles, who is chairman of the board; Ellie Rose Iverson, Anna Rose and Andrew Iverson, and Nedenia C. and Stanley H. Rumbough.
Last but not least for the spring: an amusing night out at a Washington Nationals baseball game with members of Congress. It was called “bipartisan baseball,” thought up by Republican Congressman David McKinley of West Virginia and Diana DeGette, a Democratic representative from Colorado. There were votes going on and only a small group made it to the game by bus. They were greeted by Bob Tanenbaum, whose family owns the Nationals, and Gregory McCarthy, the team vice president, and together everyone headed up to a pre-party that included general manager Mike Rizzo and Tanenbaum’s wife, Marla Lerner Tanenbaum
Rep. David McKinley of West Virginia and Rep. Diana DeGette of Colorado -- trying to help solve Congressional dysfunction with "bipartisan" baseball.
For the game, against the New York Mets, I sat with McKinley and DeGette and between sips of beer and occasional cheers we talked about Congressional dysfunction, a subject that gets under DeGette’s skin. Her biggest beef is the whining in Washington among old-timers about “how it used to be” when everybody supposedly got along. “Back then all the members of Congress were men with stay-at-home wives, and the wives organized dinners,” she said. “But now women work, including in Congress. It’s never going to be the way it was again. We have to find new ways to get together and this is one of those ways. We want to grow this, do it annually, and eventually get the whole House here.”

Not exactly a conventional party, but that was the charm and made it a memorable night out on the town. The Mets won 10-1.
On hand to welcome the House members was Bob Tannenbaum, on the right, whose family own the Washington Nationals. Beside him is DC's House delegate, Eleanor Holmes Norton.
Georgia Congressman John Barrow meets Nats GM Mike Rizzo, as team vice president Gregory McCarthy looks on.
Out of the House chamber but not out of his suit, because Rep. Jeff Denham knew he had to return to the Capitol for a vote.
Watching the game but also talking political issues, Reps. Jeff Denham, David McKinley and Diana DeGette. Denham and McKinley are both Republicans, DeGette is a Democrat.
Next: Summer and Fall
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt

Washington Social Diary

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A scene at the National Geographic Society's 125th Anniversary gala, which took place in June.
THE MOST MEMORABLE PARTIES OF THE YEAR, PART 2
by Carol Joynt

Rounding up the most memorable parties and events of 2013 has been a fun project. To go back through the photo archives, to scan hundreds of photos that translate into memories, gives a perspective that underscores the relevance of social life in the nation’s capital. In this photo or that one I catch glimpses of just about everyone here who matters. It’s guaranteed that some of these individuals — variously powerful, rich, beautiful, talented, brilliant, famous, or well-connected (and all of that for some), would not otherwise interact with each other were it not for social life. 

Rep. David McKinley of West Virginia and Rep. Diana DeGette of Colorado at an amusing night out at a Washington Nationals baseball game with members of Congress, called "bipartisan baseball."
Some truths. For younger people here, social life doesn’t matter enough. The millennials achieve that connection through social media (which, by the way, I like, but don’t think it’s enough, either). For the boomers, there’s often wistfulness for another era. But as Colorado Congresswoman Diana DeGette said in last week’s WSD, it won’t be the “way it was” ever again; stop whining for the past, and try to find ways to make social life serve who we are right now.

What I’ve always liked about New York is the way the generations come together at the hot events and the hot spots. The youthquakers mash up with the gray eminences and, as with the coming tide, all boats rise. Washington is generationally segregated. Breaking through that barrier somewhat, though, is the new and very du moment Le Diplomate restaurant.

On a recent weeknight at 11 p.m., there were people from their 20s up to their 70s, filing through the high gloss blue doors, looking for a table in the packed bistro. Maybe the fashionable 14th Street corridor will be the gateway to a new era. Diplomate is the heart of it at 14th and Q Streets, the intersection that is now the cultural crossroads that Georgetown’s Wisconsin and M used to be.
Le Diplomate, at the happening intersection of 14th and Q Streets, northwest.
Le Diplomate during Saturday lunch, dressed up for the holidays.
Required eating at any age: French fries at Le Diplomate.
If 2014 carries on 2013’s trends it should be an energizing year. Let’s strive for intimacy and freshness. Sometimes smaller is better.

Don’t forsake the classic seated dinner party. There aren’t enough of them, at least not that are private rather than a lobbying effort camouflaged as private. It’s that way too often on Embassy Row, but I give ambassadors a slight break because in a wired world they don’t have much else to do. Still, diplomats aside, we have some men and women here with the talent and means to be rock star hosts. They’ll grumble, “Who has the time?” Make the time. Just do it.

SUMMER


• This June party has received praise from me before but it deserves one more shout out. The National Geographic Society’s 125th anniversary gala made guests feel like world explorers as the mammoth National Building Museum was transformed into a floor-to-ceiling NatGeo screening room. We dined among volcanoes, surfers, wild animals, and deep in the Amazon. It’s inspiring to break bread with scientists and explorers who go to the tops of mountains and the bottoms of oceans. It’s never boring to have a chat with oceanographer Robert Ballard or to hear director James Cameron be his earnest but goofy self. This year he preached a mandate of veganism, imploring everyone in the room to change “what is on the end of your fork,” just moments before the waiters put down the entrée: roast filet of bison.
Actress Suzy Amis and her director/explorer husband, James Cameron.
Here's how to exploit the mammoth National Building Museum, as done up for the National Geographic Society's 125th Anniversary gala. The photos of the room tell the story.
• The Capella hotel opened this year with a succession of parties — at least a half dozen by my count — but what caused the most buzz about this handsome new Georgetown luxury hotel is its private rooftop. I call it “St. Barts.” There are sofas and chairs, a small bar, a black marble infinity pool (with its own fireplace), piped in jazz, it’s uncrowded and discreet, and the views of the city are spectacular.
Bruce Bradley, the owner of the Capella hotel, at an Opera Ball dinner with his wife, Sharon Bradley.
The hotel’s owner, Bruce Bradley, has tapped an assortment of his friends as “rooftop members,” who, along with hotel guests, have exclusive access to the spacious deck. But don’t despair. The staff sometimes are reasonable with people who dine in The Grill and ask for an after dinner visit to the roof. It’s not guaranteed but it’s worth asking. Also, there is a pleasant and romantic ground floor drinking and dining terrace that overlooks the C&O Canal. And the scene is happening in the winter, too, with warm cocktails and blankets.
The rooftop deck of the Capella hotel in Georgetown, looking to the northeast.
The Capella's pretty rooftop infinity pool.
Izette Folger enjoying an evening on the Capella rooftop.
Rooftop "members" enjoy a summer night atop the Capella.
A cocktail party by the pool.
• Venture capitalist Mark Ein is the owner of The Washington Kastles World Team Tennis organization, and with that he has taken a venue on the Washington waterfront and turned it into a boutique tennis facility that’s a great summer destination. The tournament is a nightly party, including courtside dining (at tables, with waiters). The season opening party was particularly memorable, with a military color guard and cheerleaders and players including Venus Williams, Martina Hingis and Leander Paes. The White House was represented by First Lady Michelle Obama and senior adviser Valerie Jarrett; also Commerce Secretary Penny Pritzker. Mayor Vincent Gray was there, too, as well as many notable Washington tennis fans. It’s the place to be on a warm July night.
Venus Williams after a news conference on opening day of the Washington Kastles summer tennis tournament.
Tennis cheerleaders.
Courtside: Commerce Secretary Penny Pritzker and White House senior adviser Valerie Jarrett. First Lady Michelle Obama was there, too.
DC Mayor Vincent Gray.
Sally Streibel and Kastles owner Mark Ein, enjoying the tennis only weeks before their summer wedding.
Billy Jean King takes in a Kastles game.
Beth and Ron Dozoretz.
Four Seasons Hotel general manager Dirk Burghartz at a courtside table with Tom Healy of Strategic Hotels & Resorts.
A courtside table is the place to be: Cora Masters Barry with Reggie Van Lee.
Dining tables ring both sides of the court, making for a pleasant way to watch the tennis.
FALL

• I have earlier praised the September Lone Sailor Award dinner, Kevin Spacey’s dinner to raise money for the Kevin Spacey Foundation, the Wolf Trap Ball, and Smithsonian magazine’s October American Ingenuity Awards, but another memorable dinner of the Fall was the Recovery for Life Gala hosted by Caron Treatment Centers. It was memorable because of what it was: a fundraiser for an organization that treats alcoholism and other addictions.

The evening began with a “mocktail” half hour and the dinner “wine” was cider. The defining moment, though, was provided by political commentator Bob Beckel, who took the stage to tell his wrenching and dramatic story of recovery from alcoholism. Sober for about 13 years, he called it “coming out of the dark and back into the light.”  As he spoke of black outs, family heartbreak and lost friendships, the room was pin-drop quiet. “In about four hours we will have crossed the threshold into another day, and we put another day under our belt,” he said. “Some of us have a lot of days, some of us have a few, but it only takes one. If somebody’s here tonight and quit drinking yesterday, you are no different than those of us who have been around for years.”
Bob Beckel, on stage at the Caron Treatment Centers gala at the National Museum of Women in the Arts.
Bob Beckel, after telling his story of alcoholism and recovery.
The Caron Treatment Centers gala dinner where the theme was recovery and the wine was apple cider.
• Thornwillow Press publisher Luke Ives Pontifell came to town in October to host a party for author Steve Garbarino and his 32-page, Christmas-stocking size homage to F. Scott Fitzgerald, “A Fitzgerald Companion.” It was a party Fitzgerald likely would have loved, unusually festive and boozy for Washington. The cocktails were some of his favorites from the Jazz Age (Old Fashioneds, Sidecars, French 75s). There was a rowdy jazz band, and the setting — by the fireplace in the cozy and dimly lit St. Regis bar — wrapped it up nicely.  Pontifell caressed one of the handmade books. “You can touch the type, you can feel it,” he said. Of the enduring appeal of his subject, Garbarino said, “People relate to him. Fitzgerald walked that weird line of telling a cautionary tale but going, ‘Ain’t we havin’ fun?’”
Thornwillow Press publisher Luke Ives Pontifell on the left and "A Fitzgerald Companion" author Steve Garbarino on the right.
Cocktails of the Fitzgerald era. Here are some Old Fashioned's.
Lively jazz befitting a 1920's themed party.
Author Steve Garbarino.
Some of the fine handmade books made by Thornwillow Press.
• The annual OSS Society dinner brings together men who are 100 and men who are 40, and a lot of women, too, and the common thread is being part of the nation’s class of spies. The Office of Strategic Services, created in World War II by William J. Donovan and some of his cronies, became the modern day Central Intelligence Agency.

Fisher Howe, with William Donovan in the foreground.
Each year the OSS Society presents the Donovan Award to someone who’s still getting the job done, and this year it was Adm. William H. McRaven, the U.S. Special Operations Commander, who oversaw the 2011 Navy SEAL mission that resulted in the death of Osama bin Laden.

Every guest sits down to a chilled gin martini, with an onion on a toothpick, and then stands back up several times for formal toasts, including one to Ernest Hemingway. The speakers this year included CIA director John Brennan, and Maria Riva, daughter of that OSS icon, actress Marlene Dietrich.

McRaven, who is right out of the Sam Shepherd character book, gave an acceptance speech that was full of gusto, and hinted at political ambition. But mostly he came to praise the work at hand. “I often hear disillusioned officers and noncommissioned officers ask, ‘Why aren’t we more like the OSS?’ Well, ladies and gentlemen, I am here tonight to tell you that the OSS is back.” 

He said, “Not since World War II has there been such a lethal combination of intelligence officers and special operations warriors. Not since the fight against Hitler have we had such a talented group of government civilians, intellectuals, businessmen, writers, philosophers, engineers, tinkers, tailors, soldiers, and spies.” It was enough to make one run to the nearest computer to fill out the 25-page CIA job application.
Adm. McRaven and a friend, Jerrad Ackerman.
Associated Press correspondent Kimberly Dozier and former White House counsel Fred Fielding at the OSS Society gala.
Maj. Gen. Victor Hugo, an OSS veteran.Martinis for all and many toasts at the OSS Society annual awards gala.
Bethany Trevett with her grandfather, Richard Trevett, who was an OSS spy.
The table centerpiece at the OSS Gala. There were also commemorative coins, bearing Donovan's image, for guests to take home.
• There has to be one party that stands out from all the others and the one that qualifies as the most memorable of 2013 was a dinner on, of all places, a parked jet.
When the invitation arrived to have dinner in the first class section of a parked Qatar Airways 777 I started humming “Come Fly With Me,” and accepted immediately. I also invited my friend Shane Harris of Foreign Policy magazine, saying, “We’ve so got to do this.” Shane goes to so many events with me (because you can’t go alone) and he knew I was right. This would be different.
Going through TSA security but our destination was a dinner party.
Welcome aboard.
Yes, it was a promotional event, because Qatar Airways runs regular routes to DC, a city of many globetrotters, but I saw it most of all as a seated dinner party, and judged it that way, and on that it delivered. Our group of about 20 guests went through security, like regular travelers, and boarded as if for a routine flight. Shane and I had the most up front seats in up front — on a regular flight each would cost about $11,000 round trip — and relaxed into the journey, which was a lavish two-hour dinner.

Fine Champagnes (not one but two), canapés, several courses of food with delicious wines to match, utterly attentive service from expertly trained flight attendants. We tried everything, played with every component of our luxury seats, and took lots of silly selfies. I got permission to sit in the pilot’s seat, and was stunned that the cockpit is so small. We laughed and talked and indulged and laughed some more — in every way what a party should be. It was different and delicious and also kind of whacky.

We may have not left the ground but I still floated home.
Our seats, in the up front of up front, which would each cost about $11,000 round trip — if flying.
In preparation for having two fine Champagnes — Billecart-Salmon and Bollinger.
One course of a several course dinner, this dish of black cod and lemon was created by Japanese chef Nobu Matushisa.
Adjacent dinner guests, er, "passengers," nibbling and tweeting.
"Would you like some vintage port?" asks Qatar Airways sommelier James Cluer.
With Shane Harris, acting silly after dessert in our seats that convert to beds, or some version of a bed.
Look who is flying the plane.
Shane Harris asks, "why not?" as we he enjoys the most memorable Washington party of 2014.
Photographs by Carol Joynt.

Follow Carol on twitter @caroljoynt
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